Berm formation and dynamics on a gently sloping beach; the effect of water level and swash overtopping

Berm formation and morphological development of the beach face have been observed during a neap–neap tidal cycle on the gently sloping and accreting beach at Vejers, Denmark. During the field campaign, an intertidal bar migrated onshore and stabilized as a berm on the foreshore. A new intertidal bar occurred on the lower beach face, migrated onshore on the rising tide and finally merged with the pre‐existing berm. As the tide continued to rise, the new berm translated further onshore as an intertidal bar to the uppermost part of the foreshore. The sediment transport during the berm transition was onshore directed in the upper swash and offshore directed in the lower swash. This berm development can be described through both the neap‐berm, ridge‐and‐runnel and berm‐ridge development concepts proposed by Hine (Sedimentology 1979; 26: 333–351), and all three stages were observed during only three tidal cycles. The main factors controlling this fast transformation were the gentle slope of the cross‐shore profile, rapid water level translation rates, substantial swash overtopping of the berm, and low infiltration rates. Despite the onshore migration of intertidal bars and berm formation, no net foreshore accretion took place during the field campaign. This was largely due to the formation of rip channels with strong rip currents cutting through the intertidal bars and the berm, which acted as a sediment drain in the profile. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Consequences of short‐term changes in coastal processes: a case study

In 1997–98, unique critical beach erosion led to structural failure along the Penarth, South Wales, UK coastline and anthropogenic activities, such as the construction of the Cardiff Bay Barrage and offshore marine aggregate dredging, were suggested as causes. The time‐frame of significant erosion was between 1995 and 1997 and forcing agents (extreme sea level and wind direction) and shoreline indicators (mean beach level and MHW) were analysed in order to assess change. Water level analysis showed that although there was no significant difference between actual and predicted mean sea levels, extreme sea levels at that time were significantly higher (t = 3·305; d.f. = 8; p < 0·05). Three wind direction analyses (annual mean, mean annual maximum gust and mean annual maximum gust ≥28 kn) between 1995 and 1997 also showed significant differences (p < 0·05). All comprised more easterly components which meant they approached the beach from the sea. Furthermore, gusts ≥28 kn from the northeast quadrant, that is, 0° to 90° true, were significantly more frequent during these years (t = 3·674; d.f. = 8; p < 0·01). Justification of statistical significances was established and there was supporting evidence of unusual meteorological conditions at that time. Relationships showed correlation between forcing agents (extreme sea level and wind direction) and shoreline indicators (mean beach level and Mean High Water). Furthermore, regression analysis showed winds from the northeast quadrant resulted in steeper longshore gradients, as a consequence of beach material loss. Therefore, it was concluded that the critical erosion of Penarth beach between 1995 and 1997 was caused by increased wave attack from the northeast and southeast quadrants, generated by unique significant changes in wind direction and extreme sea levels. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Dynamics of multiple intertidal bars over semi‐diurnal and lunar tidal cycles,North Lincolnshire,England

Multiple intertidal bars are common features of wave‐dominated sandy beaches, yet their short‐term (<1 month) and small‐scale (<1 km) morphology and dynamics remain poorly understood. This study describes the morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars in North Lincolnshire, England, during single and lunar tidal cycles under two contrasting conditions – first when significant wave height was <0·5 m and second when significant wave height frequently exceeded 1 m. The relative importance of swash, surf and shoaling processes in determining morphological change was examined using detailed field observations and a numerical model. The beach featured four intertidal bars and both cross‐shore and longshore bar morphology evolved during the field investigation, particularly under medium to high wave‐energy conditions. Numerical modelling suggests shoaling processes are most common on the seaward two bars under calm wave conditions (H_s < 0·5 m) and that surf zone processes become more common during neap tides and under more energetic (H_s < 0·5 m) conditions. Surf processes dominate the inner two bars, though swash influence increases in a landward direction. The numerical modelling results combined with low tide survey data and high‐resolution morphological measurements strongly suggest changes in the intertidal bar morphology are accomplished by surf zone processes rather than by shoaling wave or swash processes. This is because shoaling waves do not induce significant sediment transport to have any morphological effect, whereas swash action generally does not have enough scope to act as the swash zone is much narrower than the surf zone. It was found, however, that the absolute rate of morphological change under swash action and surfzone processes are of similar magnitudes and that swash action may induce a significant amount of local morphological change when the high tide mark is located on the upper bar, making this process important for bar morphodynamics. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

华南沿海若干砂质海滩沉积物粒度特征的分析

根据2003年7月在华南沿海12个砂质海滩所取得的76个沉积物样品（其中次表层样品36个,不计入研究范围）,就该区的沉积物粒度特征展开论述。为了便于分析其沉积物粒度特征,我们把华南沿海12条海滩剖面根据岸滩形态和成因将华南砂质海岸划分为岬湾型砂质海岸、沙坝-渴湖型砂质海岸和夷直型砂质海岸三大类。阐述了不同类型海滩的表层沉积物的粒度特征、类型、分布以及粒度的沿程变化特征。     

构造沉降是控制近代洞庭湖演变的关键因素吗?——评《洞庭湖地质环境系统分析》

本文对以研究近代洞庭湖演变趋势为主要内容的《洞庭湖地质环境系统分析》的系列研究成果进行评论 ,认为采用“假设 -演绎法”研究洞庭湖演变得出的结论 ,依然建立在假设的基础上 ,并不可靠。文中还对该系列成果提出的“构造沉降是控制洞庭湖演变的关键因素”的论点和一些所谓的“构造沉降”表现及其计算数据提出质疑 ,认为近代洞庭湖的演变不是由内动力“构造沉降”控制 ,而是主要受入湖水沙条件变化、人工围垦湖滩和湖面———基面上升等外动力的作用和影响。     

洞庭湖区的泥沙淤积效应

以1951-2005 年长系列实测泥沙等资料为依据, 从泥沙淤积特性与资源环境之间的关系上, 探讨了洞庭湖区的泥沙淤积效应。研究表明: 由于洞庭湖区始终处于淤积状态, 加之人类活动影响, 导致了泥沙淤积循环演进的格局, 以至于使泥沙的灾害性效应与资源性效应 均在湖区得到充分的显示。主要表现在: ① 塑造了水体滩地、泥沙滩地、湖草滩地、芦苇滩地等类型滩地, 构成了湖泊巨系统的主体; ② 孕育或诱发了泥沙淤积→洲滩扩展、围垦→调洪功能下降、鱼类资源枯竭、生物多样性减少灾害链: 泥沙淤积→洲滩扩展→洪涝、水质污染; 泥沙淤积→植被洲滩浮涨→血吸虫病、害鼠致害灾害链; 泥沙淤积→洪溃决堤→土地沙 化灾害链。这些淤积型泥沙灾害链给湖区直接或间接地造成巨大的经济损失。③ 近55 年间, 泥沙塑造土地约98.13×10⁸hm², 人类合理开发利用洲滩资源获得了巨大的经济效益, 就地挖沙加高防洪大堤2~3 m, 累积土石方约55×10⁸ m³, 节省了购买大量原材料的开支。     

大鹏湾岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征及原因分析——以官湖海滩为例

随着全球海平面的上升及极端气象的频发,全球海滩总体呈现出一定的退化现象,海滩保护成为海岸带生态修复的焦点问题之一。我国华南地区岬湾型海滩分布广泛,以深圳市大鹏湾官湖海滩为代表,基于2020—2021年实测海滩剖面高程数据,分析岬湾型海滩季节性变化特征。研究表明,官湖海滩剖面坡度夏秋缓冬春陡,夏秋侵蚀冬春淤积;海滩沉积物粒径季节性变化不明显。海滩剖面形态受风浪、平均潮位的季节性变化控制,以夏秋季为例,平均潮位逐渐升高,南向波浪强度较大,在二者的共同作用下,海滩后滨侵蚀明显,泥沙离岸输运,并在前滨淤积。补沙方案宜在夏秋季进行,且重点区域为官湖海滩东侧与观海湾海滩,防御方案应主要削弱南向波浪。     

大港油田中部滩海新近纪古湖泊发育的证据

大港中部滩海新近系层系是重要的油气后备勘探领域和战略接替区.前人普遍认为新近系层系发育曲流河和辫状河沉积.借鉴渤海海域浅层油气勘探经验, 基于遗迹组构、微古生物、生物有机化合物、碳氧同位素以及地震等地质资料分析, 认为中部滩海东部发育开阔的古湖泊, 其证据为: 发育见于国内外浅湖环境的典型的Palaeophycus遗迹组构; 发现丰富的见于正常浅湖环境的浮游绿藻化石; 发现较多的仅分布在古代和现代湖泊中的介形类——Candona、Cypris; 干酪根类型、生物有机化合物、碳氧同位素以及地震等地质资料也证明了古湖泊的存在.馆陶组中、晚期至明化镇组沉积早期为湖泊逐渐扩张达到鼎盛发育的时期.      

探地雷达(GPR)在海南岛东北部海岸带调查中的应用 *

对海南岛东北部海岸带调查采用了探地雷达(GPR)研究海岸带沙体的结构、展布和沉积序列,取得了很好的效果。文章通过和有限的露头资料对比以及对反射波形态、结构的研究,确定了海滩脊、海岸沙丘的反射特征以及潜水面的位置。雷达图像显示五龙港古海滩脊由亚水平、不连续、高振幅和透镜状反射波组成;木兰头海岸沙丘已受到人类活动的扰动,短的、陡倾斜反射可能代表未受扰动的海岸风成沙的前积层。研究表明探地雷达是一种可靠、快速和经济的地球物理方法,在砂砾质海岸可产生高质量、高分辨率和连续的反射剖面,值得加以推广。     

南海北部晚全新世高海平面及其波动的海滩沉积证据

揭示晚全新世以来的海平面变化过程对于理解海平面所处的现状和变化的趋势等具有重要意义。构造活动相对稳定的雷州半岛珊瑚礁区蕴藏着丰富的海平面变化信息,文中对该区晚全新世发育的海滩沉积序列研究表明,距今约1.7～1.2Cal.kaBP(14C年代为2.1～1.7kaBP)期间总体上是一个海平面持续上升的时期,其中在距今约1.5Cal.kaBP时海平面有过短暂的下降波动,约1.2Cal.kaBP时的海平面比现在的至少高128cm;之后海平面开始下降,至今海岸线后退了约210m,形成现代海滩-沙堤地貌体系。结合本区珊瑚礁记录的全新世其他时段海平面的变化特征,本文认为全新世海平面与气候变化一样,也存在千年、百年、年代际尺度的波动特征。