满足给定数字特征和谱的随机信号的产生

本文给出了满足给定数字特征和谱的随机序列的产生方法，即用无记忆非线性变换实现非正态随机信号的模拟．该法与Ｇｕｊａｒ法相比较，放宽了变量概率分布的限制，只要求变量矩的存在。同时考虑无记忆非线性变换对谱的影响，用异于Ｌｉｕ的方法在频域上求解输入正态分布随机序列的谱．     

汕头近岸区的台风波浪 (二)后报台风波浪及其基本特征

本文采用《受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的推算方案》后报影响汕头近岸区的台风风浪，并以此与Ｔｈｏｍｐｓｏｎ关于波型的判据和合田良实的不同波型能量集中度的规定相结合，计算台风混合浪，经与现场实测资料相比较，效果良好；依４４年台风浪的后报结果，可以得到各场台风过程的波高，波能和主波向的变化以及后报台风较大浪时能随方向的分布     

香港附近海区台风波浪的波群统计分析

根据香港附近海区１９８５，１９８６年两次台风大浪的实测资料，以有效波高为相应水平，对波群作统计分析，得出可供海洋工程参考的波群连长、波群重复长度、波群出现频率以及波群中最大波高与有效波高的关系等。并将统计值与理论值作比较，结果表明：统计值大于“连”的理论值，而与包线理论中采用合田修正公式的汁算值相近。     

不规则波折射物理模型试验研究

作者曾发表过“不规则波折射的数学模型〔１〕。为了与数学模型的计算结果相互验证，在大连理工大学海岸及近海工程国家重点实验室进行了不规则波折射物理模型试验。试验研究结果表明：提出的“不规则波折射数学模型”对频谱采用等能量分割、对方向分布采用等间隔（Δθ＝ｃｏｓｎｔ）分割的组成波折射线性叠加法是合理的、可行的，可供港口及海岸工程规划、设计应用     

受陆岸影响浅水区台风风浪的计算方案

在我国港口工程技术规范的波浪成长理论基础上，考虑到台风波浪的基本特点、等效水深的概念、浅水区波浪的折射、不规则波的能量分布特性、受陆岸和岛屿影响角度范围内的有效能量风区长度等因素，提出了受陆岸、岛屿影响浅水区（包括海湾区）台风风浪的计算方案。本方案只需台风中心位置、中心气压和计算点于各方位的风区长度（受陆岸影响部分）等资料，便可快速地得到计算点的波浪要素。经实测资料验证，效果良好。     

Influence of Approach Channel on Wave Propagation with Varying Incident Angles

- The variation of the amplitude of waves with varying incident angles when waves propagate through a typical approach channel is discussed by a numerical calculation method, the result of which shows that the influence of the channel on wave propagation is obvious. When the wave propagation direction is in coincidence with the channel axis, the wave amplitude ratio will decrease with the increase of propagation distance. When the incident angle is 15 - 30 , there appears an area of larger wave amplitude ratio on the side slope facing the waves, but at the another side, the wave amplitude ratio is generally small, indicating that the channel has a shielding effect. When waves propagate across the channel perpendicularly, the wave amplitude ratio can be calculated with the shallow water coefficient.     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.     

真鲷早期发育阶段行为生态学研究

真鲷Pagrosomus major Temminck et Schlegel早期发育阶段游泳行为的发育可以分为:(1)旋转式运动;(2)阶梯型运动;(3)间断式水平运动和滑翔;(4)巡游以及(5)疾游五种类型。前期仔鱼的摄食方式主要是伴有甩头动作的前冲摄食;后期仔鱼的摄食主要有两种类型:一种是身体弯成S形的“S攻击型”;另一种为不作摄食姿势的“咬食攻击型”。摄食方式随着发育水平和饵料种类的不同而异。文中对发育过程中出现的攻击行为、护食行为、互食行为、猝死现象亦进行了描述。并对游泳、摄食以及各种行为的生态意义和实际意义进行了讨论。