Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

机载雷达高度计对海况及海面风速的测量研究

运用我国自行研制的ＺＨＧ－１型Ｘ波段机载雷达高度计于１９９５年４月１３日－４月１８日在青岛附近海域进行的海上飞行实验数据，及导出的均方根波高、有效波高、均方根波陡算法模型，得到了上述海况参数值。     

钛型吸附剂的表面特性

用自装的BET容量法装置测定了几种粒状钛型吸附剂的比表面及其孔径分布。测定是在常温减压下进行的。结果表明:钛型吸附剂在加铀海水中的吸铀量与样品的比表面及孔径分布有一定的内在联系。这种表面性质的研究对吸附剂的筛选有重要的指导意义。     

Fluid flow equations governing primary oil migration as a separate phase

A mathematical model of primary oil migration as a separate phase out of compacting shales is presented. During burial and oil generation, source rock porosity decreases and oil saturation increases until residual oil saturation is reached. At this stage oil is expelled out by capillary and excess fluid pressure gradients. The model is a system of differential equations which relate changes in oil and water saturation in time to water and oil flow out of the source rock during burial. An additional set of equations for periods of erosion of overburden are also provided. The equations can be numerically solved by finite difference method. If oil and water flow is to be simulated during oil generation, then at each time step, changes by oil generation in oil and water saturations and porosity must be calculated. The solution procedure is briefly outlined.     

珠江三角洲网河区水位变化趋势研究

根据珠江三角洲网河区29个验潮站的实测验潮记录,应用傅氏变换与最平滤波器串联的方法来消除月均序列的周期波动对确定水位变化趋势的影响,由低通序列一元线性回归分析确定各站水位的变化趋势;结果表明,周期波动对确定海平面变化趋势的影响是显著的.应用经验正交函数(EOF)对网河区的水位变化场进行分解,由相互独立的时间函数和空间特征函数表征网河区区域的水位变化特征;应用时间特征函数计算区域水位的平均变化率为0.02mm/a.根据验潮站的水位变化趋势,探讨网河区水位变化与河床冲淤的关系.     

关于Mckenzie沉积盆地初始沉降公式的修正

根据Airy均衡原理对Mckenzie沉积盆地初始沉降公式进行了修正,并导出了公式的正确表达式 S=(a[(ρ_o-ρ_c)t_c/a(1-(aT_1t_c)/(2a))-(aT_1ρ_o)/2](1-1/β))/(ρ_o(1-aT_1)-ρ_w)     

关于具二次约束最小二乘问题的敏度分析

本文系统地研究具二次约束最小二乘问题的敏度分析。首先给出长期方程唯一正根的上界和下界；然后证明割线法用于计算拉格朗日乘子时全局收敛；最后给出解的扰动界。     

An infinity of conservation laws of fKdV equation

An infinity of conservation laws of fKdV equation is derived in terms of the Miura and Gardner''s transform.The pseudo-mass and energy theorems are studied by the first two conservation laws.As a typical example,the theoretical mean wave resistance and the regional distribution of energy of the precursor soliton generation are determined by means of the first and the second conservation laws.     

A climatology of mesoscale model simulated low-level wind jets over Cook Inlet and Shelikof Strait, Alaska

Weather in the North Gulf of Alaska is characterized by a high frequency of deep synoptic-scale low-pressure systems, especially during the cold season. The strong pressure gradients of these storms interact with the extremely rugged terrain of the coastal mountains to produce a variety of channeled flows. These surface wind regimes are not well documented in the scientific community, due to the paucity of observations. Modeling of these phenomena in regions of complex terrain is of great interest to those working with hydrodynamic, wave, and pollutant transport models in coastal and shelf areas. Such models, when coupled with ocean and coastal-ecology counterparts, give a broad view of the role surface winds play in shaping local coastal marine ecosystem in this region. This paper presents a climatology of simulated low-level wind jets over the domain of Cook Inlet and Shelikof Strait along Alaska's south-central coast. Daily simulations using the RAMS model were conducted in a 36-h forecast mode for the cold-season period 10/1/03 to 3/31/04. Systematic analysis of the resulting simulated low-level wind field makes it possible to characterize these jets and gap flows in spatial and temporal detail. The comparison between the RAMS winds and the Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR)-derived winds when available verifies the existence of these wind jets and the capability of the model to simulate these cases. Clearly, the results of a study in this region depend on the fidelity of the model at these scales (O[5 km]). The SAR comparisons attempt to help establish this. From the 6 months of simulations over Cook Inlet and Shelikof Strait, the low-level wind jets are classified into 10 different regimes by location and orientation. These regimes are categorized into four more general groups: cross-channel westerly, easterly, and up and down Inlet flows. The nature of a particular regime is largely a function of pressure gradient orientation and local topography. Jets in the same group have a similar occurrence distribution with time. Some form of jet occurred in the study region almost daily each month of the period, with December 2003 having the highest frequency of wind jets.     

Wave-Current Forces on Small Square Cylinders (Part I)

-Based on the extended Morison Equation and model tests, the in-line forces on small square cylinders caused by waves (regular and irregular) and currents are analyzed in detail in this paper. The hydrodynamic coefficient CD and Cu related to KC number and the effect of direction of wave incidence are also given, which can be used in engineering practice.