太平洋东边界波浪输运

通过计算2000年涌浪指标(swell index)的全球分布,发现太平洋东边界赤道附近区域存在涌浪池.利用ECMWF再分析波浪资料,计算出2000年全球月平均波浪体积输运.比较2000年全球月平均波浪体积输运和2000年QUICKSCAT月平均风场,发现在赤道太平洋东边界涌浪池区域内的波浪输运方向和风向存在很大的差别,两者方向相差大约90°.这进一步验证了该地区涌浪池存在的真实性.研究发现,赤道太平洋东边界涌浪主要来源于北太平洋和南太平洋的西风带对应的海区.在涌浪池区域内分别在2.5°S和2.5°N取两条边界(边界起点为125°W,终点为美洲大陆西边界),计算通过这两条边界进入赤道区域涌浪的Stokes体积净输运量.结果表明,不同月份通过南、北两条边界波浪的净输运量与当月南、北太平洋西风带的风浪强度密切相关.同时指出了,涌浪的体积输运将会对大洋环流系统产生潜在的重要影响.     

A time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation

On the basis of the previous studies, the simplest hyperbolic mild-slope equation has been gained and the linear time-dependent numerical model for the water wave propagation has been established combined with different boundary conditions. Through computing the effective surface displacement and transforming into the real transient wave motion, related wave factors will be calculated. Compared with Lin’s model, analysis shows that calculation stability of the present model is enhanced efficiently, because the truncation errors of this model are only contributed by the dissipation terms, but those of Lin’s model are induced by the convection terms, dissipation terms and source terms. The tests show that the present model succeeds the merit in Lin’s model and the computational program is simpler, the computational time is shorter, and the computational stability is enhanced efficiently. The present model has the capability of simulating transient wave motion by correctly predicting at the speed of wave propagation, which is important for the real-time forecast of the arrival time of surface waves generated in the deep sea. The model is validated against analytical solution for wave diffraction and experimental data for combined wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope. Good agreements are obtained. The model can be applied to the theory research an d engineering applications about the wave propagation in a biggish area.     

Effects of winds,tides and storm surges on ocean surface waves in the Sea of Japan

Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyō, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.     

A method of determining dominant wave direction from multiparameter hydrological gauge measurements and its application

Multi-parameter hydrological gauge is an instrument developed by the South China Sea Institute of Oceanology,the Chinese Academy of Sciences to make simultaneous observation of current, wave, tide, water temperature and conductivity.By using the well-known "PUV method", the directional wave spectrum can be calculated and the dominant wave direction is then obtained.The comparison of the dominant wave directions derived from the measurements using both the multi-parameter hydrological gauge and the MARK Ⅱ "Wave-Rider" directional buoy shows that the dominant wave directions derived from the two kinds of measurements are in good agreement.     

台风海况下半潜式钻井平台动力性能监测与分析

半潜式钻井平台在海洋油气资源开发中发挥着重要作用,目前主要采用模型试验和数值模拟方法对其动力性能进行研究,非常缺乏台风等极端海况下半潜式平台动力响应的实海域监测数据。以某半潜式钻井平台为研究对象,构建了一套比较完善的平台动力性能监测系统,并对台风“杜苏芮”过境阶段的监测数据进行了分析。根据平台艏部气隙及运动监测数据推算了平台吃水及环境波高;采用随机波浪的统计分析方法,计算得到短期海况的有效波高、谱峰周期、能量谱等信息,通过与多种典型海浪谱对比发现Jonswap谱与所测波谱吻合较好;对平台的横摇、纵摇及垂荡运动进行了时域统计分析和频域谱分析,得到了台风海况下被测平台波频运动的实际响应特征,对于指导平台抗台作业具有重要意义。     

次声波在海啸灾害预警中的应用探讨

介绍了次声波的基本物理概念和次声波的传播特性,概述了次声波的研究现状,提出了利用次声波来预警海啸灾害的建议,并对其可行性进行了分析。     

多种数字海洋地理环境信息的融合与可视化的局部实现

以潮汐、潮流和海浪数值的计算技术和数字海底地形模型的构造方法为基础,应用层次细节模型和三维渲染技术,完成了近岸海洋环境保障的多种数字海洋地理环境信息的融合与可视化的局部实现,为今后此领域的研究提供了理论和经验基础。     

基于潜标观测的黑潮-亲潮混合区近惯性能量季节变化特征研究

近惯性内波广泛存在于全球海洋,是维持深层海洋跨等密度面湍流混合及海洋层结的重要能量来源。基于黑潮-亲潮混合区的多年深海潜标数据,分析了:(1)该海域近惯性内波及其能量的季节变化特征与影响因素,(2)上层和深层近惯性运动的频率、波数谱及垂向分布等特征。结果表明,该海域存在丰富的近惯性动能,无论海洋上层还是深层均呈现显著的冬季强、夏季弱的季节变化特征,冬季(12～2月)上层的近惯性能量可占全年能量的41%,深层近惯性信号同样显著,同潮汐信号相当。平板模型分析表明,该区域近惯性动能的季节循环特征主要受风场的季节变化所主导,同时受到黑潮延伸体流轴的摆动调制。     

Numerical modelling of deformation of multi-directional random waves over a varying topography

Two numerical formulations of the breaking phenomenon were implemented in a numerical model for random wave propagation based on the elliptic formulation of the mild-slope equation. The randomness of the wave field was simulated based on a spectral component method, in which the 3-D spectrum is discretised in components of equal energy. One of the breaking process formulations is based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component. The other is based on the distribution of the local amount of energy dissipated through the independent spectral components. The model based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component produces the best estimates of the wave field, when the numerical results are compared with laboratory data.     

完全非线性波浪破碎模型沿岸流数值模拟

探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。