厦门岛会展中心海滩养护及其对我国海岸防护的启示

硬式护岸是传统的海岸防护手段.近几十年来,以养护海滩为主的软式护岸已成为欧美发达国家海岸防护的主要措施,而我国尚处于起步阶段.本文以厦门岛会展中心海岸养滩实践为例,通过分析其海岸地貌演变历史、数值模拟养滩工程方案及定期观测海滩养护后剖面的变化,论述了该工程的必要性和可行性,以及养护后海滩的稳定性.同时,结合发达国家护岸的发展趋势,对我国的护岸转型作了思考.研究表明厦门岛会展中心海滩养护工程的施工使该海岸防护方式由硬式转变为软式,工程完成后为期半年的剖面监测数据显示单位宽度留存的沙量平均为381.4 m3/m,为施工初期平均值440 m3/m的86.7％,表明该海滩基本稳定.海滩养护可以修复受损的海滩或者营造新的滨海沙滩,改善滨海城市环境,提高城市品位,促进城市滨海旅游的发展,进而带动社会经济的发展,具有社会、经济、环境、生态等多方面的效应.我国海岸防护观念正在由传统的硬结构护岸转向软式的沙滩护岸,海滩养护将是我国未来海岸防护的一种更好的措施.     

Linear evolution of a shoreface nourishment

The morphological evolution of a shoreface nourishment is investigated by interpreting the nourishment as a linear perturbation of the natural system. The nourishment is projected onto the subset of linear eigenmodes with negative growth rates of the morphodynamical system. The evolution of these linear modes then determines the temporal behaviour of the shoreface nourishment. The method is presented, and results are shown for shoreface nourishments of different length scales on a straight coast and subject to normal incidence. Shoreface nourishments are represented by their expansions according to the projection method on a 1:50 plane beach profile. All nourishments are shown primarily to be diffusive features, with long scale nourishments diffusing more slowly than shorter length scale nourishments. Long scale nourishments also exhibit a shoreward movement during their decay. This all indicates that long length scale nourishments may be more beneficial in coastal engineering projects. This study is a first step towards nonlinear projection to study shoreface nourishment behaviour.     

海滩养护修复过程中拦沙堤的应用

拦沙堤作为海滩养护最常用的辅助工程之一,在全球范围内得到广泛应用。在总结我国海滩养护过程中拦沙堤应用现状的基础上,将拦沙堤的功能分为3类（防泥沙扩散、防沿岸输沙、防浪+防输沙）,并详细分析这3类拦沙堤在我国海滩养护的应用现状和发展规律。基于国内外工程实践,进一步探讨海滩养护中拦沙堤的多项应用创新：组合式拦沙堤设计、拦沙堤平面形态优化、拦沙堤堤群设计、拦沙堤+潜堤组合优化、拦沙堤+旁通输沙/循环养护。最后,展望未来海滩养护中拦沙堤的发展应用趋势（拦沙量的精准调控、丰富多样的形态设计、基于“自然工法”的生态化建设）,并给出了相关建议。     

海滩养护过程和工程技术

海滩养护是根据设计方案,向海滩大量抛沙,或者同时辅以硬工程,使受蚀海滩增宽和稳足的工程,是抵御海岸侵袭灾害的最佳措施。上世纪末发达国家已普遍开展,我国目前尚属起步,但近年发展迅速。该工程分调查,重建和修补3个阶段,三者相互补充和制约。重建前必须充分调查目标岸段,以为设计养护方案提供依据;重建阶段应注重抛沙位置、沙成分、抛沙量和沙源选择等工序;重建后应进行多年的剖面监测和再抛沙的修补。在那些浪大,沙少和岩礁裸露的侵蚀岸段,应辅以丁坝或岸外潜坝等硬工程加以抵浪,维持所填沙的稳定。     

Pilot assessment of depth related distribution of macrofauna in surf zone along Dutch coast and its implications for coastal management

Surf zones are highly dynamic, physically stressful parts of sandy beach ecosystems. The high wave energy of surf zones has in the past severely hampered ecological surveys of these systems. Here we used a novel technique to collect fauna from this environment along the Dutch coast. A large vehicle in the form a tripod that drives along the sandy seafloor and supports a sampling platform 11 m above the water line can collect both infaunal (grabs) samples and pull beam trawls for epibenthos. The distribution and diversity of macrofauna were studied at different depths in the surf zone along the Dutch coast. Species diversity and abundance increased with increasing depth of the water column. This increase was especially noticeable on the seaward side of the outer breaker bar. Within the surf zone, in the trough between the two breaker bars, there were spots of high diversity and abundance of macrobenthic infauna. Moreover, the area is also important for epibenthic and fish species, like the commercially important flatfish sole. Spatial patterns of species richness and abundance across an onshore-offshore gradient from the beach to seawards of the breakers suggest the presence of faunal zonation in this environment. The high abundance recorded in troughs was primarily caused by patches of juvenile Sand mason Lanice conchilega. The management implications of these results are that we suggest to protect the surf zone, including the trough between the two breaker bars, as a potential area of high diversity and abundance and to reconsider the objectives of the EU-Habitat Directive and the Water Framework Directive for the coastal area.     

Evaluation of the physical process controlling beach changes adjacent to nearshore dredge pits

Numerical modeling of a beach nourishment project is conducted to enable a detailed evaluation of the processes associated with the effects of nearshore dredge pits on nourishment evolution and formation of erosion hot spots. A process-based numerical model, Delft3D, is used for this purpose. The analysis is based on the modification of existing bathymetry to simulate “what if” scenarios with/without the bathymetric features of interest. Borrow pits dredged about 30 years ago to provide sand for the nourishment project have a significant influence on project performance and formation of erosional hot spots. It was found that the main processes controlling beach response to these offshore bathymetric features were feedbacks between wave forces (roller force or alongshore component of the radiation stress), pressure gradients due to differentials in wave set-up/set-down and bed shear stress. Modeling results also indicated that backfilling of selected borrow sites showed a net positive effect within the beach fill limits and caused a reduction in the magnitude of hot spot erosion.     

人工海滩研究进展

海滩是激浪作用下泥沙在激浪带的堆积,是海岸带最活跃的地貌单元。近年来,由于世纪性的海平面上升,侵蚀型海滩范围扩大,侵蚀加重,海滩宽度变窄、坡度变陡和滩面物质粗化等问题日益严重,引起了广泛关注,亦成为海岸工程研究的热点课题之一。几十年的工程实践表明,海滩喂养与人工海滩是当前防护海滩侵蚀最有效的措施,并已为欧、美、日等国广泛应用。利用海岸地貌学原理方法,借鉴模拟环境条件类似的周边自然海滩的形成和演变规律,合理的设计海滩物质的颗粒大小和组成,海滩的坡度、高度、宽度以及填砂范围等关键参数,能够有效地使人工海滩更快的达到平衡状态并维持其稳定。在海滩的娱乐休闲功能在国际范围内日益受到重视的今天,这一方法在海岸工程应用上具有重要的现实意义。     

Chronic offshore loss of nourishment on Nice beach,French Riviera: A case of over-nourishment of a steep beach?

The 4.5 km-long gravel beach fronting the exclusive resort of the city of Nice, on the French Riviera, in southeastern France, was artificially nourished from 1976 to 2005 to the tune of 558,000 m³, making this long-term operation one of the most significant for gravel beaches in the world. Nourishment has ranged from nil in certain years (1979, 1980, 1983–85, and 2001–2002) to a peak of over 97,000 m³ in 2000. Analyses of 50 transects covering the beach highlight no significant change in net beach width over this 30-year period of massive gravel nourishment. A Principal Components Analysis and a Cluster Analysis used to detect patterns in the 87 beach-width measurement dataset show no clear spatial trends in transect groups that can be interpreted in terms of the morphology of the beach and the steep inner shoreface. Significant wave height off Nice shows no change over the period 1979–2005. Since there is no possibility for alongshore gravel leakage on the strongly embayed Nice beach, the relative stability in beach width clearly implies loss of recharged gravel offshore. Gravel loss following nourishment is favoured by: (1) the steep inner shoreface inherited from the geological context of Nice beach at the flanks of the southern Alps, and (2) the practise of artificial beach widening through flattening, in summer, of a narrow (5–15 m-wide) mobile zone of the profile in order to enhance the ‘carrying’ capacity of this highly touristic beach. Beach widening and flattening following nourishment bring close to the very steep inner shoreface zone several cubic metres of gravel for each metre of beach that may be permanently lost downslope during autumn and winter storms. Recharged gravel is redistributed alongshore and offshore leakage is probably enhanced where small narrow submarine canyon heads impinge on the beach, resulting in a very narrow shoreface. Mean beach width shows an oscillating alongshore pattern that may be due to the influence of these canyons as pathways of gravel loss offshore. However, there is no correlation between mean beach width and distance to the 10-m isobath, used as a surrogate for inner shoreface width. Storms are associated with plunging waves that are particularly effective and concentrated, on this almost tideless shore, over the narrow mobile zone of the beach profile where a series of steep reflective berms are built during storms. The high dynamic pressures associated with this narrow zone of concentrated wave breaking, and energy reflection from the steepened profile, are deemed to contribute to the permanent downslope loss of gravel. This situation of long-term gravel loss is probably accepted by the beach management authority because of the low cost of obtaining nourishment material and the advantages derived from a temporarily wider beach in terms of recreational space.     

Stability of an artificially nourished beach,Balaena Bay,Wellington Harbour,New Zealand

Balaena Bay, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand, has a small pocket beach that was covered originally by pebbles and cobbles. In February and October 1982, the beach was nourished with sandy granular gravel, the stability of which was monitored until February 1984. Although isolated from oceanic swell, the new beach readily responded to locally generated wind waves which induced both northwards and southwards longshore drift. The net effect was erosion of the southern beach, aggradation over the central beach, and minor fluctuations at the northern end. Yet despite this mobility nearly all the nourishment sediment was retained in the littoral zone. Beach volumes, calculated for each survey, varied little and sediment distribution patterns revealed negligable transport of nourishment sediment to adjacent beaches and offshore areas. Stability is further confirmed by compositional data which record no preferential loss of the sandstone, argillite, and quartz components. The only compositional changes were the incorporation into the new beach of small (< 10%) quantities of sediment derived from the old beach surface and from biogenic productivity.     

福建崇武半月湾渔港防波堤建成后下游海滩地形变化及养护对策研究

渔港硬式构筑物如防波堤等对海岸的影响显著。以福建泉州崇武半月湾渔港防波堤修建前后的海滩变化为例,通过对2003²011年不同阶段海滩地貌形态、岸线变化分析以及2个海滩剖面多期监测比较发现,防波堤修建后海湾下游西侧海滩发生显著蚀退,西端侵蚀强度最大,向东(靠近防波堤遮蔽段)逐渐减小,中东部遮蔽段转为淤涨。海滩变化的主要原因:1)E2011年不同阶段海滩地貌形态、岸线变化分析以及2个海滩剖面多期监测比较发现,防波堤修建后海湾下游西侧海滩发生显著蚀退,西端侵蚀强度最大,向东(靠近防波堤遮蔽段)逐渐减小,中东部遮蔽段转为淤涨。海滩变化的主要原因:1)E^SE向主入射波浪受到防波堤的阻挡作用,在堤头发生绕射,港内波影区动力变弱;2)防波堤阻碍了从东向西的沿岸流运动,形成东向为主的沿岸输沙,使得东端发生堆积,造成下游的西侧海岸的沉积物亏损,发生侵蚀。针对海岸变化机理提出了海滩养护防御措施,并通过数值模拟预测说明养护海滩以由西向东输沙为主,年均输沙量约3万m3,堆积于遮蔽段,最后,提出采用周期性抽取遮蔽段养护沙补充到西端的方法来实现海滩循环养护。