The Mathematical and Parameterized Expressions for Wave Induced Excess Flow of Momentum

Wave induced excess flow of momentum(WIEFM)is the averaged flow of momentum over a wave period due to wave presence,which may also be called 3-D radiation stress.In this paper,the 3-D current equations with WIEFM are derived from the averaged Navier-Stokes equations over a wave period,in which the velocity is separated into the large-scale background velocity,the wave particle velocity and the turbulent fluctuation velocity.A concept of wave fluctuating layer(WFL)is put forward,which is the vertical column from the wave trough to wave ridge.The mathematical expressions of WIEFM in WFL and below WFL are given separately.The parameterized expressions of WIEFM are set up according to the linear wave theory.The integration of WIEFM in the vertical direction equals the traditional radiation stress(namely 2-D radiation stress)given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart.     

STWAVE模型在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中的应用

我国常用的风推浪计算方法在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有一定局限性。论文通过不同方法计算的波浪要素计算结果的比较,认为STWAVE模型在满足计算精度的前提下,操作简单,方法简便,在多岛屿区域波浪要素计算中具有较大的应用、推广价值。     

Numerical and simplified methods for the calculation of the total horizontal wave force on a perforated caisson with a top cover

The VOF method and the k–ε model, combined with the equation of state of air at constant temperature, have been used to calculate the total horizontal wave force caused by monochromatic waves acting on a perforated caisson with a top cover. From comparison of various parameters, such as the total horizontal force, the pressure difference on the front wall, the pressure on the back wall and the pressure on the top cover, between the numerical results and test data, it can be seen that the numerical results agree well with the test data. It is concluded that the method described in this paper can be utilized to calculate wave forces acting on perforated caissons with a top cover in the case of nonovertopping, nonbreaking waves. A simplified method to calculate the total horizontal force has been developed, based on test data, using a least-squares method. A comparison between the numerical results and the values calculated from the simplified equations shows good agreement. Therefore the simplified equations can be used in engineering applications to evaluate the total horizontal force on a perforated caisson with a top cover.     

Measurements of higher harmonic wave forces on a vertical truncated circular cylinder

Wave forces on a vertical truncated circular cylinder in Stokes waves with the wave slopes ranging from 0.06 to 0.24, are measured in a wave tank. The higher harmonic wave forces are compared with the available values from theories of the FNV (Faltisen–Newman–Vinje) model and Varyani solution. The first harmonic horizontal forces measured are much larger than the theoretical values from the FNV model, while the first harmonic vertical forces are well predicted by the Varyani theory. It was also found that the FNV model significantly overpredicts the second harmonic horizontal forces in high frequency waves, but under predicts the third harmonic forces. The differences between the actual measurement and the theory, in the second and third harmonic horizontal forces, become smaller at low wave frequencies as the wave slope increases. In addition, the transverse instabilities in the incoming waves with high wave slope were observed, which is due to the nonlinear modulation. Measurements were, thus, carried out before the instability occurred.     

Transient biouptake flux and accumulation by microorganisms: The case of two types of sites with Langmuir adsorption

The uptake of a chemical species by an aquatic microorganism is modelled considering two kinds of sites where Langmuirian adsorption is followed by first order internalisation kinetics. Simpler models, such as only one internalisation route (while most of the adsorption takes place on non-internalising sites) or a linear isotherm for adsorption on one or both sites, become limiting cases of this double-Langmuirian model. The model considers the sites located on the spherical (or semi-spherical) surface of the organism, and takes diffusion from the medium into explicit account. The numerical solution for the internalisation flux shows a maximum. We provide an estimate for the time needed to reach a certain proximity to steady state. The transient solution confirms that the analytical expressions for the steady-state flux are usually valid and that the accumulated amounts reflect the impact of the short-time uptake. The Instantaneous Steady-State Approximation (ISSA), where an intercept of the linear regression of accumulated amount as a function of time is interpreted as an adsorbed amount, can be critically assessed with the transient numerical code for two cases: (i) when the total burden of metal on the cell is the input data and (ii) when an extraction procedure provides further information on the adsorbed and internalised amount.     

A climatology of mesoscale model simulated low-level wind jets over Cook Inlet and Shelikof Strait, Alaska

Weather in the North Gulf of Alaska is characterized by a high frequency of deep synoptic-scale low-pressure systems, especially during the cold season. The strong pressure gradients of these storms interact with the extremely rugged terrain of the coastal mountains to produce a variety of channeled flows. These surface wind regimes are not well documented in the scientific community, due to the paucity of observations. Modeling of these phenomena in regions of complex terrain is of great interest to those working with hydrodynamic, wave, and pollutant transport models in coastal and shelf areas. Such models, when coupled with ocean and coastal-ecology counterparts, give a broad view of the role surface winds play in shaping local coastal marine ecosystem in this region. This paper presents a climatology of simulated low-level wind jets over the domain of Cook Inlet and Shelikof Strait along Alaska's south-central coast. Daily simulations using the RAMS model were conducted in a 36-h forecast mode for the cold-season period 10/1/03 to 3/31/04. Systematic analysis of the resulting simulated low-level wind field makes it possible to characterize these jets and gap flows in spatial and temporal detail. The comparison between the RAMS winds and the Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR)-derived winds when available verifies the existence of these wind jets and the capability of the model to simulate these cases. Clearly, the results of a study in this region depend on the fidelity of the model at these scales (O[5 km]). The SAR comparisons attempt to help establish this. From the 6 months of simulations over Cook Inlet and Shelikof Strait, the low-level wind jets are classified into 10 different regimes by location and orientation. These regimes are categorized into four more general groups: cross-channel westerly, easterly, and up and down Inlet flows. The nature of a particular regime is largely a function of pressure gradient orientation and local topography. Jets in the same group have a similar occurrence distribution with time. Some form of jet occurred in the study region almost daily each month of the period, with December 2003 having the highest frequency of wind jets.     

应用数字地形模型方法分析漳州港海底冲淤变化

利用漳州港海域无围堰填海造地前后的水深测量数据，结合海域地质钻探、表层和柱状沉积物资料，用数字地形模型方法计算了该区海底的冲淤量，分析了冲淤变化及其影响因素，结果显示：（1）淤积主要发生在近岸海域，其主要原因是近岸3-10m厚的海底淤泥层在回填土的挤压和推移下发生形变，产生淤浅假象；另一个原因是回填时部分泥沙流失入海，淤积在近岸海域，致使淤积强度增大。（2）由近岸往外，淤积强度逐渐减弱，并过渡为产中刷状态。     

随机海浪的列率谱分析研究

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。     

Wave-Current Forces on Small Square Cylinders (Part I)

-Based on the extended Morison Equation and model tests, the in-line forces on small square cylinders caused by waves (regular and irregular) and currents are analyzed in detail in this paper. The hydrodynamic coefficient CD and Cu related to KC number and the effect of direction of wave incidence are also given, which can be used in engineering practice.     

A model of the formation and development of ocean shear wave

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