The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

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Stability Design System of Submarine Pipelines

This paper introduces a stability design system of submarine pipelines. The system can provide a reasonable design procedure for users with reference to domestic and foreign methods and in the light of home engineering experience.     

确定连续系统参数的时域方法

提出一种确定连续系统参数的时域方法。该方法利用方波输入和系统稳定性，离析出输出采样信号与结构参数的内在联系，推导出确定连续系统结构参数的算法．指出该算法与辨识方法相结合，可实现对含随机干扰的连续系统结构参数的估计．     

渤海南部海域年极值波浪和设计波浪的特征研究

本文用统计计算和后报方法，获得了本海域不同海区多年年极值波高（Ｈ１／１０）资料。用Ｐ－Ⅲ型和短期测波资料频率分析方法，估算了各海区的设计波高，并依据文献［３］计算出对应的平均周期。用Ｋｏｌｍｏｇｏｒｏｆｆ适合度方法检验所得的结果表明，依Ｐ－Ⅲ型方法拟配的理论频率曲线与经验点十分吻合，从而确定了本海域不同海区最佳的设计波浪。分析本海域年极值波浪的基本特征表明，本海域除了渤海湾北部海区以外，主浪向一般为ＮＮＥ向，渤海海峡区的年极值波高和设计波高均为最大，而向莱州湾及渤海湾沿岸海区逐渐减小；在沿岸海区，由龙口至黄河口一带的极值波高较大。     

规则波和不规则波作用下消波建筑物前的波高分析

消波建筑物在国内外已得到广泛应用。本文采用近似方法分析了明基床上直立式消波建筑物前的波高及消波室内的波高，从而确定建筑物的消波效果。并在规则波的基础上将成果推广至不规则波作用下的情况。     

使用水块混合层模式模拟上层海洋的季节变化

使用块体混合层模式对一个固定海洋观测站所测的上层海洋之物理特性进行了模拟，结果发现了难以重复观测到的许多物理特征。文章提出了水块混合层模式，着重模拟了扩展湾流体系（ＥＧＳＳ）中的一个水块，在它被海流从佛罗里达海峡（２４°Ｎ，８０°Ｗ）带到挪威海（６８°Ｎ，１０°Ｅ）的过程中，其物理特性（其中包括温度、盐度、混合层深度和夹卷速度）随时间的变化。模拟结果较好地再现了所观测的物理特性的演化。     

白沙河地下水资源管理模型

针对白沙河地下水含水层的内部结构和本区开采特点以及已出现的环境问题，建立了地下水资源管理模型，确定了优化开采方案。该管理模型针对本区每年２个管理时段的长度及其开采量均不同的特点，导出了新的响应矩阵的公式。管理模型的建立有助于对该区地下水的合理开采。     

季节内SST和混合层深度变化的模式研究

用Niiler—Kraus类型的混合层积分模式,对TOGA—COARE强化观测期间由《实验3号》科学考察船观测资料得到的混合层深度和SST在季节内时间尺度的变化进行了模式研究。指出:1.混合层耗散参数与较长时间尺度过程风应力的变化存在着比较好的对应关系;2.模式可以较好的对风场和热通量场在季节内时间尺度的变化作出响应,模拟出季节内时间尺度SST的变化;3.Niiler,-Kraus模式在考虑耗散作用后,可用于海洋季节内时间尺度变化的模式研究。     

Study on short-range numerical forecasting of ocean current in the East China Sea——Ⅰ Basic problems of ocean current forecasting and structure of the models

Ocean current forecasting is still in explorative stage of study. In the study, we face some problems that have not been met before. The solving of these problems has become fundamental premise for realizing the ocean current forecasting. In the present paper are discussed in depth the physical essence for such basic problems as the predictability of ocean current, the predictable currents, the dynamical basis for studying respectively the tidal current and circulation, the necessity of boundary model, the models on regions with different scales and their link. The foundations and plans to solve the problems are demonstrated. Finally a set of operational numerical forecasting system for ocean current is proposed.     

Effect of wave-directionality on second-order loads induced by the set-down

At first-order of approximation a sea-state may be considered as an infinite sum of Airy components with angular frequencies ω_i and wave-number vectors k_i. A second-order analysis shows the co-existence of long waves appearing at the difference frequencies ω_i—ω_j with wave-number vectors k_i—k_j. In shallow water they become appreciable in amplitudes and may induce slow-drift motion of moored structures.For small values of ω_i—ω_j,k_i—k_j may take all kinds of directions for an angular-spread wave system. Then it may be questioned how the in-line and transverse second-order accelerations compare to those obtained for a mono-directional wave-system.This analysis is carried out here by relating the spectra of the second-order horizontal accelerations to the directional wave-spectrum. Numerical applications are first performed for deep water. They show that at low frequencies, even for very narrowly spread wave systems, the transverse component is larger than the in-line component. In shallow water both components are dratically reduced as compared to the mono-directional case. As a consequence one may question the validity of model-testings or numerical models which take no account of the directionality of the wave-system.