Field observations of nearshore bar formation

The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high‐energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross‐shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross‐shore gradients in offshore‐directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

海南岛的滨海旅游

海南岛位处中国的最面端,为热带季风气候区,地理位置优越,旅游资源特别是滨海旅游资源丰富,阳光、海水、沙滩、绿色、空气等要素齐全,再加上珊瑚礁、红树林等独特的海洋生态系统,为海南进行生态旅游及从观光旅游向观光度假旅游提供了良好的条件。海南建省后旅游业发展迅速,旅游景点和旅游设施逐渐完善,旅游市场不断规范。今后的发展趋势将是生态旅游,特别是在珊瑚礁和红树林区域,将科学考察、探险与休闲结合,在进行旅游的     

To what extent are the fish compositions at nearshore sites along a heterogeneous coast related to habitat type?

This study has tested the following main hypotheses. (1) The composition of fish assemblages in nearshore waters along the lower west coast of Australia will differ significantly among four habitat types (1–4), which could be distinguished quantitatively from each other by differences in the values for a statistically selected suite of enduring environmental variables. (2) The extents of the differences in ichthyofaunal composition among the four habitat types will statistically match those in the suite of environmental variables that distinguish those habitat types. A 60.5 m long seine net, with 9 mm mesh in the bunt, was used seasonally for 2 years to sample fish from sites representing each of the four nearshore habitat types, which differed broadly in their exposure to wave activity and the extent and location of seagrass beds. The compositions of the fish faunas in each habitat type were significantly different from each other in all but one case. Ichthyofaunal composition did not differ significantly between years in any habitat type and differed significantly among seasons in only one habitat type. The arrangement of the rank orders of similarity in matrices constructed from the abundances of the fish species at each site also did not differ between years but did differ among seasons. Moreover, the arrangement of the ranks in the similarity matrices produced from the ichthyofaunal data recorded at the various sites in each season were significantly correlated with that in the distance matrix constructed from the environmental data for those sites, with the correlation (ρ) ranging from 0.476 in winter to 0.696 in autumn. These results thus demonstrate that the extents of the differences in the fish compositions among the various habitat types parallel those in the environmental data for the corresponding habitat types. The subset of species that provided the best correlation with the environmental distance matrix, and which was thus most responsible for distinguishing among the fish compositions at the four habitat types, was also determined for each season.     

浙江沿岸和长江口区潮流能源及其开发利用

本文根据《全国海洋能资源区划技术规定》的要求,首先对浙江及长江口区沿岸潮流流速在2.5kn以上的港湾、水道进行了潮流能资源调查研究,并在查明该区潮流能资源蕴藏量及分布的基础上,为潮流能的开发利用提供了科学依据。此外,本文对潮流能资源开发利用的现状及今后开发研究问题提出了一些看法和建议。     

近岸波浪引起的水流及长波研究进展

从现场观测、理论分析和数值计算、试验室研究三个方面回顾了近岸波浪引起水流以及长波的研究进展，并对今后着重研究的几个方向提出看法。     

南汇近岸水域近底层泥沙运动和边滩沉积

根据长江口南汇近岸水域17个站的水文泥沙同步观测资料,阐述了该水域近底层泥沙的流速、悬沙浓度的分布和变化。经无量纲潮流动力值的计算表明,研究区存在一个包络南汇边滩先向东南继而向南延伸的舌状高能量区,与高悬沙浓度分布区相一致。通过对悬沙运动和涨、落潮周期流向的分析,揭示了长江口向杭州湾底层泥沙输移的规律,其底层泥沙输移主要集中在低潮位时段,输移时间约占潮周期的36%,其中以南汇边滩向杭州湾输移的时间为最长,大、小潮都在5h以上,与其相关联,在芦潮港水域下层存在着一股东西向的高悬沙浓度的水体。据盐度、潮流、悬沙浓度等要素,并结合絮凝沉降分析得出,南汇边滩的沉积强度是潮滩>潮下带>深水区;边滩舌尖前缘水域的泥沙沉积时间与水体出现向东偏南或向西流的时间一致,这可视为近年来南汇水下沙嘴向东偏南伸展的原因之一。     

青岛麦岛污水处理厂工程海区沿岸近岸流的数值模拟

采用动量方程、波数矢量无族和能量守恒关系对青岛市麦岛污水处理厂工程海区近岸流进行了数值模拟计算，计算结果表明本文提出的近岸流的计算方法是适合工程应用的。采用该模型对沿岸规则波产生的近岸流流场进行数值模拟是简便可行的。     

Sediment trend models fail to reproduce small-scale sediment transport patterns on an intertidal beach

A rigorous test is presented of the application of sediment trend models to an intertidal beach environment characterized by bar morphology. Sediment samples were collected during low tide from a regular grid and their sediment fall velocity distributions, obtained using a settling tube, were analysed using moment analysis. The net sediment transport direction determined from beach surveys, hydrodynamic measurements, wave ripple observations and sediment transport modelling was compared with predictions by sediment trend models based on the spatial distribution of sediment parameters. It was found that the sediment transport pathways and patterns of sedimentation predicted using sediment trend models were at odds with field observations, and varied significantly depending on whether surface or sub‐surface sediment samples were used. The sediment trend models are thought to fail because, in energetic and morphologically variable beach environments, spatial patterns in sediment characteristics are mainly attributed to the presence of different hydrodynamic regions and associated morphology, rather than sediment pathways. The use of sediment trend models cannot replace the collection of morphological, hydrodynamic and sediment transport data in the field to define relationships between flows, forms and sedimentation patterns on a dynamic intertidal beach.     

Subtidal macroalgal richness,diversity and turnover,at multiple spatial scales,along the southwestern Australian coastline

Patterns of species richness are governed by processes that act at vastly different spatial scales. In the marine system of southwest Australia, macroalgal assemblage structure and richness is thought to be strongly influenced by both the Leeuwin Current, which acts at large regional spatial scales, and small-scale processes such as competition, wave disturbance and habitat heterogeneity. We examined macroalgal species richness and diversity at multiple spatial scales using a three-factor hierarchal design. Spatial extents ranged from metres (between quadrats) to many hundreds of kilometres (between regions), and the study encompassed almost 2000 km of temperate coastline. Macroalgal assemblages were highly speciose and the number, identity, and diversity of species varied considerably at all spatial scales. Small scale variability, at the scale of site or quadrat, contributed most to total variation in species richness and diversity, suggesting that small-scale processes are important drivers of ecological pattern in this system. Species richness, diversity and taxonomic distinctness increased sequentially along the coastline, from warmer to cooler waters. Small scale variability was most likely maintained by wave disturbance and habitat heterogeneity at these scales, while regional scale diversity and richness clines were attributed to the fact that most species had cool-water affinities and the southern coast of Australia is a hotspot of floral speciation and diversity. Macroalgal assemblages in southwest Australia are speciose and largely endemic, and biodiversity patterns are structured by multiple processes operating at multiple spatial scales.     

A multi-frequency Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler (ACVP) for boundary layer measurements of fine-scale flow and sediment transport processes

The use of acoustics to measure sediment transport boundary layer processes has gained increasing acceptance over the past two decades. This has occurred through the development of increasingly sophisticated measuring systems and theoretical developments, which have enabled flow and suspended sediment parameters to be obtained from acoustic data with a high degree of accuracy. Until relatively recently, separate acoustic systems were used to measure flow and suspended sediment concentration. Over the past few years, however, the technology has become sufficiently advanced so that flow and sediment measurements can be integrated into a single system. This integration provides, quasi-instantaneous, non-intrusive, co-located, high temporal-spatial resolution measurements of benthic flow and sediment processes. Here the development of such an instrument, the Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler (ACVP) is described. The theory underpinning its application is outlined, new approaches to velocity de-aliasing and suspended sediment inversion instabilities using multi-frequency capabilities are presented and the application of the system to sediment transport processes over a sandy ripple bed is illustrated. The observations clearly show the value of such instrumentation for studying the dynamical interaction between the bed, the flow and the sediments at and within the bottom boundary layer.