Surface wave simulation during winter with sea ice in the Bohai Sea

Sea ice can attenuate wave energy significantly when waves propagate through ice covers.In this study,a third-generation wave model called simulating wave nearshore(SWAN)was advanced to include damping of wave energy due to friction in the boundary layer below the ice.With the addition of an eddy viscosity wave-ice model,the resulting new SWAN model was applied to simulate wave height in the Bohai Sea during the freezing winter.Its performance was validated with available buoy data near the ice edge,and the new model showed an improvement in accuracy because it considered the ice effect on waves.We then performed a wave hindcast for the Bohai Sea during a freezing period in the winter of 2016 that had the severest ice conditions in recent years and found that the mean significant wave height changed by approximately 16.52%.In the Liaodong Bay,where sea ice concentration is highest,the change reached 32.57%,compared with the most recent SWAN model version.The average influence of sea ice on wave height simulation was also evaluated over a five-year(2013-2017)hindcast during January and February.We found that the wave height decrease was more significant in storm conditions even the eddy viscosity wave-ice model itself showed no advantage on damping stronger waves.     

Nearshore scavenging phenomenon elucidated by <Superscript>234</Superscript>th/<Superscript>238</Superscript>u disequilibrium in the coastal waters off Western Taiwan

Dissolved and particulate ²³⁴Th activities in surface seawater were determined at 27 stations along the coastline of western Taiwan during 19–23 November 2004. Contrasting scavenging settings were observed between the northern and southern regimes of the nearshore water off western Taiwan, separated by the Cho-Shui River. The northern regime is characterized by a large quantity of suspended load contributed by northward transport of a suspension plume from the Cho-Shui River, while the southern regime, low in suspended load and high in chlorophyll concentration, is a system controlled by biological activity. A scavenging model that takes account of the physical transport was used to estimate the ²³⁴Th budget in order to estimate the scavenging and removal rates from the nearshore water. The scavenging and removal rates ranged from 21 to 127 dpm m⁻³d⁻¹ and from 36 to 525 dpm m⁻³d⁻¹, for dissolved and particulate ²³⁴Th, respectively. The removal fluxes of particulate organic carbon (POC) and particulate organic nitrogen (PON) were estimated by multiplying the particulate ²³⁴Th removal flux to the organic carbon/²³⁴Th and nitrogen/²³⁴Th ratios in suspended particles, which ranged from 4.5 to 275.2 mmol-C m⁻²d⁻¹ and from 1.3 to 50.1 mmol-N m⁻²d⁻¹, respectively. These fluxes resulted in residence times of 1∼20 days for the POC in the surface water of nearshore water off western Taiwan.     

东营凹陷盐22块沙四上亚段砂砾岩粒度概率累积曲线特征

在岩芯观察和沉积相分析基础上,利用粒度分析资料对东营凹陷北部陡坡带盐22块沙四上亚段近岸水下扇砂砾岩体的粒度概率累积曲线进行了研究。研究表明,该地区近岸水下扇砂砾岩中的粒度概率累积曲线主要包括：＂上拱弧形＂、＂简单一段式＂、＂准牵引流型＂等3种基本类型和＂近似上拱弧形＂、＂台阶状多段式＂、＂低斜率两段式＂、＂低斜率三段...     

Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing

There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (H_s/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<H_s/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (H_s/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s^‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

南海北部莺歌海岭头岬近岸烃类渗漏喷口分布及气体地球化学

Natural hydrocarbon seeps in a marine environment are one of the important contributors to greenhouse gases in the atmosphere,including methane,which is significant to the global carbon cycling and climate change.Four hydrocarbon seep areas,the Lingtou Promontory,the Yinggehai Rivulet mouth,the Yazhou Bay and the Nanshan Promontory,occurring in the Yinggehai Basin delineate a near-shore gas bubble zone.The gas composition and geochemistry of venting bubbles and the spatial distribution of hydrocarbon seeps are surveyed on the near-shore Lingtou Promontory.The gas composition of the venting bubbles is mainly composed of CO_2,CH_4,N_2 and O_2,with minor amounts of non-methane hydrocarbons.The difference in the bubbles' composition is a possible consequence of gas exchange during bubble ascent.The seepage gases from the seafloor are characterized by a high CO_2 content(67.35%) and relatively positive δ~(13)C_(V_PDB) values(-0.49×10~(-3)-0.86×10~(-3)),indicating that the CO_2 is of inorganic origin.The relatively low CH_4 content(23%) and their negative δ~(13)C_(V-PDB) values(-34.43×10~(-3)--37.53×10~(-3)) and high ratios of C_1 content to C_(1-5) one(0.98-0.99)as well point to thermogenic gases.The hydrocarbon seeps on the 3.5 Hz sub-bottom profile display a linear arrangement and are sub-parallel to the No.1 fault,suggesting that the hydrocarbon seeps may be associated with fracture activity or weak zones and that the seepage gases migrate laterally from the central depression of the Yinggehai Basin.     

东营凹陷北带东部古近系近岸水下扇储集物性演化及其油气成藏模式

以东营凹陷北带东部沙河街组三段、四段近岸水下扇为例,应用多种方法求取近岸水下扇有效储层物性下限与埋藏深度的定量函数关系,以此为基础研究了近岸水下扇不同亚相的孔隙度随深度的演化及其对油气成藏的控制作用。埋藏深度小于3200m的近岸水下扇扇根、扇中、扇缘亚相均发育有效储层,主要形成"自生自储"或"古生新储"型构造油气藏或构造-岩性油气藏。埋藏深度大于3200m的近岸水下扇扇根砂砾岩物性低于有效储层物性下限,不发育有效储层,可作为油气侧向封堵层,扇中砂砾岩有效储层发育。物性变化使扇中亚相依靠扇根的侧向封堵和湖相泥岩的封盖形成"自生自储"型岩性油气藏,具有"扇缘输导、扇中富集、扇根封堵"的油气成藏特征。     

The morphology and migration of transverse bars off the west-central Florida coast

A series of migrating shore-normal sandbars with wavelengths of 75–120 m and heights up to 2 m have been identified off the northern tip of Anna Maria Island, a barrier island on the west-central Florida coast. Similar features have been described elsewhere since the 1930s and termed ‘transverse bars’. The transverse bars identified off Anna Maria Island are found for about 3 km along the coast and extend 4 km offshore, well outside the normal surf-zone width. No cusps or any other associated beach expression is evident despite the fact that the bars come to within about 75 m of the beach. Sediments on the crests of the bars are a well-sorted fine quartz sand, whereas sediments in the troughs are a poorly sorted coarse carbonate shell hash. Historical aerial photographs and repeated high-resolution bathymetric surveys provide a means of quantifying the migration of the transverse bars. Analyses of orthorectified aerial photographs from the early 1940s through the mid 1990s clearly show movement or migration taking place in the bar field. In the 40-yr period from 1951 to 1991, the southern edge of the bar field moved 200–350 m to the south, with an average long-term migration rate of 8 m/yr. Repeated bathymetric surveys over an 8-month period give an average short-term migration rate of 21 m/yr to the south. Wave and current measurements suggest that southerly winds associated with the passage of cold fronts drive near-bed currents to the south that are strong enough to initiate sediment transport and cause the southerly migration of the transverse bars.     

近岸带三组成波耦合作用的观测与分析

利用近岸带两个测点的波浪同步观测资料，通过二阶谱分析了三组成波的非线性相互作用。对波谱峰频自相互作用的二阶相干系数b^2(fp，fp）及对应的二阶位相值β(fp，fp)、最大二阶谱幅值B最大(f1，f2)和最大二阶相干系数b^2最大(f1，f2)的组成波频率分析结果表明：(1)弱频散作用的过渡水深区存在着明显的非共振三组成波耦合作用；(2)包括谱峰频在内的自相互作用是近岸区波耦合作用的重要形式；(3)随着水深减小，趋近碎波带，非线性耦合作用进一步增强，谱能量以向低频转移为主变为向高、低频两侧转移，波形趋于前倾。     

Larval fish distribution in shallow coastal waters off North Western Iberia (NE Atlantic)

Monthly sampling for ichthyoplankton was conducted at three stations very near to the coast (near to shore shallow stations before the surf zone in direction to the shoreline) of Atlantic northwestern Portugal within contrasting localities: rocky shore, in front of a sandy beach receiving an estuary and a fishing port with heavy anthropogenic impact. Sampling was conducted from August 2002 to October 2003, always at full moon, at low tide and high tide in daylight hours, at the water column using a 48 cm diameter plankton net with 335 μm mesh. Analysis of the physico-chemical parameters pointed out the spatial (horizontal) homogeneity of the sampling area. Fish larvae from 41 taxa belonging to 17 families were identified; Blenniidae, Labridae, Ammodytidae, Clupeidae, Gobiidae, Soleidae and Gobiesocidae were the most representative during the study period. Parablennius gattorugine, Ammodytes tobianus, Symphodus melops, Sardina pilchardus, Lipophrys pholis and Coryphoblennius galerita were the most representative species (percentage contribution to total abundance). Peak abundance of fish eggs occurred during May, June and August 2003 and fish larvae occurred during May and July 2003 and August 2002 and 2003; there was a pronounced winter/early spring (March 2003) peak in larval abundance dominated by the small sandeel A. tobianus. This study identifies the occurrence of a conspicuous assemblage of larval fishes at very nearshore shallow environments of a variety of species with different adult habitats: the fish larvae assemblage was dominated by intertidal species. The present study has shown that temporal and spatial variations in the larval fish assemblage are related to environmental conditions and biological dynamics: the results suggest that abiotic conditions mediate biotic parameters, and that both abiotic and biotic characteristics regulated the larval fishes at very nearshore shallow environments.     

Nearshore Wave Field Analysis Using SAR Images

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