Onshore sandbar migration at Tairua Beach (New Zealand): Numerical simulations and field measurements

We observed the onshore migration (3.5 m/day) of a nearshore sandbar at Tairua Beach, New Zealand during 4 days of low-energy wave conditions. The morphological observations, together with concurrent measurements of waves and suspended sediment concentrations, were used to test a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore model. Because of the coarse bed material and the relatively low-energy conditions, the contribution of the suspended transport to the total transport was predicted and observed to be negligible. The model predicted the bar to move onshore because of the feedback between near-bed wave skewness, bedload, and the sandbar under weakly to non-breaking conditions at high tide. The predicted bathymetric evolution contrasts, however, with the observations that the bar migrated onshore predominantly at low tide. Also, the model flattened the bar, while in the observations the sandbar retained its steep landward-facing flank. A comparison between available observations and numerical simulations suggests that onshore propagating surf zone bores in very shallow water (< 0.25 m) may have been responsible for most of the observed bar behaviour. These processes are missing from the applied model and, given that the observed conditions can be considered typical of very shallow sandbars, highlight a priority for further field study and model development. The possibility that the excess water transported by the bores across the bar was channelled alongshore to near-by rip-channels further implies that traditional cross-shore measures to judge the applicability of a cross-shore morphodynamic model may be misleading.     

Distribution of ciliates in relation to environmental factors along the coastline of the Gulf of Gabes, Tunisia

We studied the seasonal distribution of the ciliate community coupled with environmental factors along the coast at three stations sampled (from March 2006 to February 2007) in the Gulf of Gabes (Tunisia, Eastern Mediterranean Sea). A total of 56 species belonging to 11 orders, were identified. Harbor of Gabes station was more diversified (45 species) than both Tabia (26 species) and Karboub (31 species) stations. The ciliate assemblage was numerically dominated by Spirotrichea in Tabia (82% of the total abundance), in the Harbor of Gabes (86% of the total abundance), whereas, in Karboub, Spirotrichea represented only 40% of the total abundance. The unexpected lower quantitative importance of Spirotrichea in Karboub station was apparently the result of the high salt concentration found in water samples throughout the study, probably originating from the saline area surrounding Karboub station, known as Sabkha. The distribution of species in the nearshore of the Gulf of Gabes seemed most likely influenced by the combined effects of temperature, salinity and hydrographic conditions.     

湛江港邻近海域台风浪的模拟研究

对第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN及包含的物理过程进行了简要介绍，利用该模式对影响南海湛江港海域的二次台风浪过程进行了模拟研究：由藤田台风风场模型同化相应时刻的台风要素、NCAR/NCEP网格点资料、单站观测资料后，提供模式所需风场；利用自嵌套的方式，提供模式波谱边界条件；两次模拟结果与实际海浪观测资料相符较好，可以为该海域台风浪的模拟预报提供较为重要的参考。     

松辽盆地白垩纪湖侵沉积层序与湖海沟通事件的地球化学记录

松辽白垩纪近海陆相盆地最大湖侵期的泉头组－嫩江组时期，可能发生了三次较大规模的海水入侵事件，时间分别为泉三、四段一青一段（阿尔布期），青二、三段顶部（土仑期）和嫩一、二段（晚桑托－早坎佩尼期）。海水注入使湖盆的水文地球化学和环境地球化学条件均发生改变，并在层序中留下沉积记录。海进期主要表现为：①重同位素组份增加，直至与同期海相层序的同位素组成相同；②介质的盐度指标（Ｓｒ／Ｂａ）、碱度指标（Ｃａ＋Ｍｇ）／（Ｓｉ＋Ａｌ）、还原性指标（Ｚｎ＋Ｎｉ）／Ｇａ和硫通量指标（Ｓ归一化含量）均系统增加。相反，海退期则上述指标显著降低。根据沉积层序的同位素组成、同期海水的同位素组成和同位素分馏的质量平衡关系，可求出研究层段内同位素的海水来源与淡水来源的比例（混合度）为０－５。并由此恢复出海平面升降曲线。     

Lower Pleistocene deltaic and marine sediments in boreholes from the central North Sea

Lower Pleistocene sediments recovered in boreholes from the Aberdeen Ground Formation in the central North Sea indicate that the unit was deposited in a delta front to prodelta/shallow, open shelf marine setting. Possible estuarine and clastic nearshore marine deposits have been identified on the western margin of the basin. The delta front sediments consist of interbedded, structureless to laminated sands and muds with organic debris, ferruginous nodules and common soft sediment deformation structures. Sporadic rippled and graded beds, basal scours to beds and starved ripples suggest periodic wave–current reworking. Prodelta/shelf marine sediments are predominantly argillaceous with only occasional thin sand beds and rare phosphatic bands. One exceptionally thick sand body or submarine channel-fill although this remains uncertain. The estuarine/clastic nearshore marine sediments include coarse channel-lag deposits and rippled and laminated subtidal sands. A rich microfossil assemblage recovered from the prodelta/shelf marine sequence indicates that deposition occurred under fluctuating climatic conditions.     

廊固凹陷近岸水下扇特征及控制因素

通过对廊固凹陷18口井541 m岩心的系统观察、156口井测井序列的建立、1km×1 km三维地震测网密度的地震相识别,分析了该沉积体系的相带展布特征。该砂砾岩层总体趋势为向上厚度减薄、层数减少,共识别出5期扇体,多呈条带状沿大兴断层断面分布,每期之间发育稳定的暗色泥岩段。该近岸水下扇的形成受3级层序、大兴断层、古构造、古气候、古地形以及物源供给等多种因素的控制。3级层序的发育特点、大兴断层的分段活动以及特殊的物源供给背景因素的匹配对近岸水下扇形成起到决定性作用。2~3期扇体扇中分布范围广,储集条件好,是凹陷下一步开发工作的有利目标。     

基于生态系统服务的海洋健康评估与调控:以莱州湾为例

近岸海域的生态系统管理,要求对海洋健康进行综合的评估以及对人工调控进行科学的指导,进而促进可持续发展。本文构建了定量化方法,用于评估当前的和近期的基于生态系统服务的海洋健康。以莱州湾为例的研究结果表明,当前的海洋健康指数分值为0.7856(总分为1.0);通过对负面压力进行不同强度的人工调控,得到近期海洋健康预计的变化范围为0.5551到0.8041。具体地说,本文评估得到当前的海洋健康主要表现为文化服务和供给服务基本优秀,而支持服务和调节服务不够良好。若不对持续增长的压力采取有效的调控措施,该近岸海域生态系统会在近期丧失部分支持服务和调节服务;若负面压力被完全控制,该近岸海域生态系统服务的分类等级会得到小幅提升。另外,应进一步加强对生态系统服务尤其是文化服务和调节服务的宣传教育。本文的分析过程和量化结果,为进一步指导人工调控提供了灵活的工具,有助于海岸带区域的生态系统管理。     

Observations on decadal sandbar behaviour along a large-scale curved shoreline

Nearshore sandbars are characteristic features of sandy surf zones and have been observed with a variety of geometries in cross-shore (e.g. location) and longshore direction (e.g. planform). Although the behaviour of sandbars has been studied extensively on spatial scales up to kilometres and timescales up to years, it remains challenging to observe and explain their behaviour on larger spatial and temporal scales, especially in locations where coastline curvature can be prominent. In this paper, we study a data set with 38 years of coastal profiles, collected with alongshore intervals of 50 m, along the 34 km-long curved sandy shoreline of Sylt island, Germany. Sylt's shoreline has an orientation difference of ~20° between the northern and southern half of the island. We found that the decadal coastal profiles on the southern half show features of a low-tide terrace and a sandbar located further from the shoreline (~441 m). On the nothern half, the sandbar was located closer to the shoreline (~267 m) and was less pronounced, while the profiles show transverse bar and rip features. The alongshore planform also differed systematically and significantly along the two island sides. The sandbar on the southern island half, with alongshore periodicity on a larger length scale (~2240 m), was coupled out-of-phase to the shoreline, while no phase coupling was observed for the sandbar with periodicity on a shorter length scale (~670 m) on the northern half. We related the observed geometric differences of the sandbars to the difference in the local wave climate along Sylt, imposed by the shoreline shape. Our observations imply that small alongshore variations in wave climate, due to the increasing shoreline curvature on larger spatial scales, can lead to significant alongshore differences in the decadal evolution of coastal profiles, sandbars and shorelines. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd     

黑潮近岸分支流在2017年9月与2019年9月差异的研究

通过对比2017年9月和2019年9月的温盐大面观测数据,发现东海陆架上黑潮近岸分支流的路径在两次观测中存在显著差异。2019年9月黑潮近岸分支流中上游的路径相较2017年9月明显的东向偏移,造成黑潮次表层水入侵东海近岸海域的强度较弱。为了探究黑潮近岸分支流的上述显著年际差异的原因,利用卫星高度计数据和再分析风场数据,通过分析大面观测同期的绝对海表动力高度、地转流场以及海表风场的差异,阐述了黑潮近岸分支流路径产生显著年际差异的动力机制。2019年8—9月东海海表较2017年8—9月盛行更强的西南向沿岸季风,强的西南向沿岸风通过埃克曼输运促使水体向岸堆积并在近岸区域沿岸西南向堆积。因此, 2019年8—9月东海近岸海域的跨岸方向压力梯度与2017年8—9月相比较小而沿岸压力梯度则较大。2019年8—9月,受压力梯度分布的影响,东海近岸海域产生西南向的沿岸地转流和离岸地转流。其中西南向的沿岸地转流会在底部生成离岸的底埃克曼流,离岸底埃克曼流和离岸地转流共同抑制了黑潮近岸分支流的向岸入侵。这导致2019年9月黑潮近岸分支流的路径向东偏移,黑潮次表层水入侵浙江近海及长江口区域的强度随之减弱。通过分析研究实际观测案例,阐述了风影响黑潮近岸分支流入侵东海近岸海域的动力机制,同时明确指出海表风场会从黑潮近岸分支流的中上游区域改变其路径,进而对黑潮入侵东海近岸海域产生重要影响。     

Wave-forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths,and swash zones

The role of wave forcing on the main hydro-morphological dynamics evolving in the shallow waters of the nearshore and at river mouths is analyzed. Focus is mainly on the cross-shore dynamics that evolve over mildly sloping barred, dissipative sandy beaches from the storm up to the yearly timescale, at most. Local and non-local mechanisms as well as connections across three main inter-related subsystems of the nearshore – the region of generation and evolution of nearshore bars, river mouths and the swash zone – are analyzed. The beach slope is a major controlling parameter for all nearshore dynamics. A local mechanism that must be properly described for a suitable representation of wave-forced dynamics of all such three subsystems is the proper correlation between orbital velocity and sediment concentration in the bottom boundary layer; while specific dynamics are the wave–current interaction and bar generation at river mouths and the sediment presuspension at the swash zone. Fundamental non-local mechanisms are both infragravity (IG) waves and large-scale horizontal vortices (i.e. with vertical axes), both influencing the hydrodynamics, the sediment transport and the seabed morphology across the whole nearshore. Major connections across the three subsystems are the upriver propagation of IG waves generated by breaking sea waves and swash–swash interactions, the interplay between the swash zone and along-river-flank sediment transport and the evolution of nearshore sandbars. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.