Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.     

Discussion on Coastal Erosion Near Xizhuang, Penglai, China

-In this work, on the basis of the characteristics of coastal erosion near Xizhuang (Penglai, Shandong, China) and the in-situ measured data and theoretical calculation, the causes of coastal erosion there are obtained: (1) natural erosion, (2) beach sand borrowing, and (3) sand borrowing at the Dengzhou shoal near Xizhuang, which results in the loss of the function of the wave force resistance of the shoal. Since the wave energy is increased, the longshore sediment transport rate is increased. Coastal erosions are more and more serious. A scientific basis to reduced the calamity of coastal erosion in local area is presented. Some experiences are accumulated for studying coastal erosion.     

水动力作用下管道稳定性的试验研究

利用振荡流水槽在以下两种约束条件下，研究波浪作用下直接铺设于砂质海底的管道失稳临界条件：1）管道两端自由；2）管道可水平、垂直自由运动，但流动受到限制。试验结果表明，管重无量纳数G与管道失稳的临界Fr数之间大致呈线性关系，而当G超过一定数值时，管道是侧向稳定的。管道的约束条件、砂床特性和加载速度对管道稳定性均有影响。     

海岸工程中海浪数值模拟和环境参数选取的进展

主要介绍了我国近的来在海岸工程设计，建设中有关海浪数值模拟及环境参数选取方面的研究进展。     

波浪作用下海床的有效应力分析

波浪作用下海床的稳定性分析是海洋工程地质评价的重要内容。海床的稳定性可通过计算分析其随时间变化的有效应力场来评估。本文建议了一个周期荷载作用下土体的本构模型 ,并用于计算波浪作用下海床的应力与变形。采用Biot固结理论和有限单元法 ,分析了海床的动态应力场与孔隙水压力场。波浪作用下两种渗透系数时有效应力的动态变化过程结果对比 ,反映了渗透消散作用对海床有效应力变化的影响     

Numerical modelling of deformation of multi-directional random waves over a varying topography

Two numerical formulations of the breaking phenomenon were implemented in a numerical model for random wave propagation based on the elliptic formulation of the mild-slope equation. The randomness of the wave field was simulated based on a spectral component method, in which the 3-D spectrum is discretised in components of equal energy. One of the breaking process formulations is based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component. The other is based on the distribution of the local amount of energy dissipated through the independent spectral components. The model based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component produces the best estimates of the wave field, when the numerical results are compared with laboratory data.     

The Huelva (Spain) Tsunami-Ready Station and Its Interaction with Storm Emma (March 2018)

Abstract

The sea level station operating since 1996 at Mazagón (Huelva, Spain) has been progressively upgraded to fit tsunami warning requirements, due to its location in one of the main regions at risk. Its radar water level sensor was complemented in 2017, with the addition of a pressure sensor. The performance of both sea level sensors and their response to sea level oscillations, at different frequencies, is assessed. Particular emphasis is put on the effect of extreme events, such as Storm Emma, when alternative methods to obtain 1-min data are tested, in contrast to the one based on arithmetic means. The overall differences are small, for the whole period of study (centered-root-mean-square-error below 1?cm, for 5-min, and hourly data; similar tidal parameters and sea level oscillations with periods between 30?s and 5?min). However, during Storm Emma, the pressure sensor presents sensibly lower readings than the radar, with the centered-root-mean-square-error rising to 80?mm on the March 2^nd 2018. A new method to compute 1-min data, based on medians, reduced this value to 10?mm for the same day.     

Strength Analysis of Turret Mooring Productive/Storage Tanker

The longitudinal strength of turret mooring productive/storage tanker is studied.A numeri-cal example has been implemented according to the method presented in this paper to give practical il-lustration.From the results of the numerical example,it is concluded that the turret hole located near theforward of the amidships has small effect on the longitudinal strength of the ship hull.As for design ex-treme value of wave bending moment of storage tanker,statistic method is a more reasonablemethodology,especially with the consideration of the servere environmental conditions.The primary esti-mation of design section modulus of turret storage tanker can be determined by this design bending mo-ment.     

用贝叶斯方法推算设计波高

采用长期概率预报提供波浪要素设计值是海洋工程中不可缺少的内容之一，文中介绍了一种基於贝叶斯原理的新计算方法，它较传统统计方法有明显的优越性，不仅可以通过补充新信息不断修正原有的估算结果，而且可以避免传统方法带来诸多不确定性，文中以北海中部百年一遇设计波高为例进行了计算。