江苏岸外辐射沙脊群东沙稳定性研究

东沙是江苏岸外辐射沙脊群中的第二大沙洲,具有独特的地形地貌和水动力条件,对它进行稳定性研究为揭示整个辐射沙洲及其邻近岸滩的动态演变都非常有益。通过利用多年遥感卫片资料、1998年取得的现场水文泥沙观测资料和东沙滩面表层沉积物资料等,对东沙的地形地貌特征、沉积特征和东沙两侧潮汐通道的水流泥沙特征等进行了详细分析。研究结果表明,东沙的沙脊偏于西侧,西侧滩面较窄、高程较高且岸线较为顺直,东侧滩面较宽、高程较低且岸线较为破碎;西洋和陈家坞槽均处于冲刷状态,净输沙的主要方向为输向槽外或输向条子泥;东沙近三十年来面积有所缩小且有外围向中央收缩的趋势,尤其以向东、向南方向的迁移最为明显。     

赤道暖池区漂流浮标运动轨迹分析

TOGA—COARE强化观测期间,对赤道暖池区海流作了多种方法、多层次的观测;根据美国释放的漂流浮标不同时刻位置的资料,分别对赤道及其南、北海域的表层漂流状况作了计算分析,指出:从1°N向北存在单一的北向流;从1°N～1°S这个近赤道区域内为东向流;1°N～2°S区域为过渡区,以东向流为主,个别浮标出现涡旋状运动。2°S以南为一反时针运动的大涡旋。     

ECOM模式在丁字湾的应用

应用河口、陆架和海洋模式 (ECOM模型 ) ,引入干湿网格法模拟潮滩涨落的改进 ,并建立丁字湾及近岸海域的三维变动边界潮流模型。该模型考虑了湾口拦门沙、湾内水道和人工围海等地形特点。计算结果与实测值比较符合良好 ,较好地刻画出丁字湾 M2 分潮潮流场的时空分布特点。     

Two-Dimensional Mathematical Model of Tidal Current and Sediment for Oujiang Estnary and Wenzhou Bay

A 2-D mathematical model of tidal current and sediment has been developed for the Oujiang Estuary and the WenzhouBay. This model accomodates complicated features including multiple islands, existence of turbidity, and significant differ-ence in size distribution of bed material. The governing equations for non-uniform suspended load and bed load transport arepresented in a boundary-fitted orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system. The numerical solution procedures along with theirinitial conditions, boundary conditions, and movable boundary technique are presented. Strategies for computation of thecritical condition of deposition or erosion, sediment transport capacity, non-uniform bed load discharge, etc. are suggested.The model verification computation shows that, the tidal levels computed from the model are in good agreement with the fielddata at the 18 tidal gauge stations. The computed velocities and flow directions also agree well with the values measuredalong the totally 52 synchronously observed verticals distributed over 8 cross sections. The computed tidal water throughputsthrough the Huangda‘ao cross section are close to the measured data. And the computed values of bed deformation fromYangfushan to the estuary outfall and in the outer-sea area are in good agreement with the data observed from 1986 to 1992.The changes of tidal volumes through the estuary, velocities in different channels and the bed form due to the influence of thereclamation project on the Wenzhou shoal are predicted by means of this model.     

Simulation of Formation and Spreading of Salinity Minimum Associated with NPIW Using a High-Resolution Model

A series of numerical experiments were conducted with a high-resolution (eddy-permitting) North Pacific model to simulate the formation and spreading of the salinity minimum associated with the North Pacific Intermediate Water (NPIW). It was found that two factors are required to simulate a realistic configuration of the salinity minimum: a realistic wind stress field and small-scale disturbances. The NCEP reanalyzed wind stress data lead to better results than the Hellerman and Rosenstein wind stress data, due to the closer location of the simulated Oyashio and Kuroshio at the western boundary. Small-scale disturbances formed by relaxing computational diffusivity included in the advection scheme promote the large-scale isopycnal mixing between the Oyashio and Kuroshio waters, simulating a realistic configuration of the salinity minimum. A detailed analysis of the Oyashio water transport was carried out on the final three-year data of the experiment with reduced computational diffusivity. Simulated transport of the Kuroshio Extension in the intermediate layer is generally smaller than the observed value, while those of the Oyashio and the flow at the subarctic front are comparable to the observed levels. In the Oyashio-Kuroshio interfrontal zone the zonally integrated southward transport of the Oyashio water (140–155°E) is borne by the eddy activity, though the time-mean flow reveals the existence of a coastal Oyashio intrusion. In the eastern part (155°E–180°) the zonally integrated transport of the Oyashio water indicates a southward peak at the southern edge of the Kuroshio Extension, which corresponds to the branching of the recirculating flow from the Kuroshio Extension. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Modified mild slope equation and open boundary conditions

A numerical model to compute wave field is developed. It is based on the Berkhoff diffraction-refraction equation, in which an energy dissipation term is added, to take into account the breaking and the bottom friction phenomena. The energy dissipation function, by breaking and by bottom friction, is introduced in the Berkhoff equation to obtain a new equation of propagation.The resolution is done with the hybrid finite element method, where lagrangians elements are used.     

Three‐dimensional simulation of tsunami run‐up around conical island

At the circular Babi Island in the Flores tsunami (1992) and pear shaped island in the Okushiri event (1993), unexpectedly large tsunami run‐up heights in the lee of conic islands were observed. The flume and basin physical model studies were conducted in the Coastal Hydraulic Laboratory, Engineering Research and Development Center, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to provide a better understanding of the physical phenomena and verify numerical models used in predicting tsunami wave run‐up on beaches, islands, and vertical walls. Reasonably accurate comparison of run‐up height of solitary waves on a circular island has been obtained between laboratory experimental results and two‐dimensional computation model results. In this study we apply three‐dimensional RANS model to simulate wave run‐up on conical island. In the run‐up computation we obtain that 3D calculations are in very good comparison with laboratory and 2D numerical results. A close examination of the three‐dimensional velocity distribution around conical island to compare with depth‐integrated model is performed. It is shown that the velocity distribution along the vertical coordinate is not uniform: and velocity field is weaker in the bottom layer and higher on the sea surface. The maximum difference (about 40%) appears at the time when solitary wave reached the circular island.