Interaction of solitary waves with emergent, rigid vegetation

In this study, solitary wave interaction with emergent, rigid vegetation was studied numerically and experimentally. Laboratory experiments were carried out in a wave flume with vegetation models of different lengths and porosities; the Boussinesq equations with the effects of the vegetation being modeled by a quadratic drag law are used to simulate the wave scattering by and the wave propagation through vegetation. Effects of incident wave height, vegetation density, and vegetation length are discussed. An empirical expression for the mean drag coefficient of emergent, rigid vegetation is presented and compared with other available data. The results are useful for studying tsunami hazard mitigation by coastal forests.     

An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves

Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves.     

Experimental researches on reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater under regular and irregular waves

A series of regular and irregular wave experiments are conducted to study the reflective and transmitting performances of quarter circular breakwater (QCB) in comparison with those of semi-circular breakwater (SCB). Based on regular wave tests, the reflection and transmission characteristics of QCB are analyzed and a few influencing factors are investigated. Then, the wave energy dissipation as wave passing over the breakwater is discussed based on the hydraulic coefficients of QCB and SCB. In irregular wave experiments, the reflection coefficients of QCB and their spectrums are studied. Finally, the comparisons between the experimental results and numerical simulations for QCB under regular and irregular wave conditions are presented.     

莱州湾东部沙波地貌分布特征及其形成演化

由2009年海底地形地貌调查资料,对莱州湾东部海底沙波的分布和形成进行探讨研究。结果发现：该地区发育大面积海底沙波地形,沙波主要为二维直线型沙波,陡峭度为0．001,对称指数为1．2,对称指数较好。沙波的形成和海底坡度以及水深有密切关系,在平坦海底易于形成,且与水深有一定的负相关关系。莱州湾东部沙波是10m等深线的古海...     

越南巴达棱湾沿岸海域周年风和浪的观测分析

基于国内首次在越南巴达棱湾2007年5月—2008年4月的风、浪现场实测资料,对该海区的风和浪的基本特征进行了初步统计分析,得出如下结论:1)海区季风现象明显,冬季(夏季)盛行东北(西南)季风,东北季风强度大于西南季风强度;2)海区波向与风向基本一致,即冬季(夏季)常浪向和强浪向均是E(SSW)向浪;3)海区以风浪为主,波谱表现为多峰结构,主峰多为单峰和双峰结构,东北季风(西南季风)期间,峰值周期对应的波向为E(SSW)向,台风对海域的波谱影响明显。文章结果对认识与我国同纬度的南沙群岛海域的风、浪特点具有一定参考价值。     

地震结构爆裂理论与短临预测

在地震结构爆裂动力学理论基础上,揭示了临震前兆波的客观机制。作为储能体的地震包体,其流体压力达到覆盖岩层的断裂强度和重力之和时,在引潮力的作用下,包体发生局部破裂,裂纹发生扩张,产生破裂流和破裂波,交替发生冲击加载和垮塌卸载,同潮汐波叠加,形成地震前兆共振波,以相速度和群速度向围岩传播,其振动频率和周期表征包体的固有频率和周期。波速和周期均可以被灵敏度高和抗干扰性能强的PS100HRT地电仪在地震爆发前捕捉到,从而可用于确定地震的震中和震级。依据共振波出现后振幅随时间增加的规律,月潮规则,可以确定发震时间。地震和临震理论以及诊断技术均已经成熟,中国有望在世界上首先实现地震预报。查清地震包体,地震能可以如同油气那样供人类利用。     

A laboratory study on the undrained strength of a silty sand from Central Western Taiwan

The sand deposit in Central Western Taiwan typically contained significant amounts of fines. The assessment of liquefaction potential using the simplified procedure often involved adjustment in field test results to account for the effects of fines. The available fines content (FC) adjustment methods are highly empirical and may lead to very different conclusions. The need and/or level of FC adjustment should be justified based on cyclic behavior of sand and its relationship with fines. This study made an attempt to provide that reference information for a silty sand commonly found in Central Western Taiwan. A series of isotropic consolidation, undrained monotonic and cyclic triaxial tests were conducted on reconstituted Mai Liao Sand (MLS) with various FCs and densities. Concurrent shear wave velocities were measured using bender elements in some of the cyclic triaxial tests. This paper describes the geological background, the laboratory tests and their implications in the assessment of liquefaction potential for MLS.     

埋藏基岩断裂对地震波动影响的超声模拟研究

地球表层的地质构造对地震波动有不容忽视的影响，研究其规律，对于探查地壳结构乃至了解地球表层动力学特征具有重要意义。应用超声模拟方法，从基岩断裂对波传播和波场分布的影响以及基岩断裂倾向对地表地震动频率的影响三个方面研究了埋藏基岩断裂对地震波动的影响，揭示了一系列现象和规律。     

基于保幅波动方程的广义高阶屏地震偏移成像方法

原始地震数据中饱含丰富的反映相位的走时信息和反映反射率的振幅信息。基于波场延拓理论的波动方程保幅地震偏移成像,是在给出正确构造成像位置的同时也给出真实反射振幅的有效完善。基于全声波方程,利用严格的解耦理论进行单程波动保幅分解,得到一个由波场传播项与振幅补偿项构成的,在走时与振幅上满足全声波方程对应的程函方程与输运方程的保幅单程波动方程;利用摄动理论进行单平方根算子渐进展开,推导出基于保幅波动方程的广义高阶屏地震偏移算子方程。模型测试和实际资料处理表明,该方法不但可以凭借更准确的相位归位和散射能量聚焦提高构造成像精度,而且输出了能更正确反映地下反射属性的能量信息,从而可以为更深层次的勘探开发,提供地球物理技术支撑。