Numerical Simulation of Abnormal Wave Height Change Induced by Excavated Waterway with Boussinesq Equation

A nonlinear numerical model has been set up by use of Boussinesq Equation with finite differ-ence method,and has been applied to the simulation of the abnormal change of wave height induced by ex-cavated waterway.Numerical results demonstrate that the abnormal change of wave height is due to theadding of the reflected wave height induced by excavated waterway to the incident wave height.Becausethe angle between the incident wave and the axis of the waterway is smaller than the critical angle,the re-flected wave produced by the waterway may propagate to the breakwater and may be added with the inci-dent wave,then the abnormal change of wave height before the breakwater may be caused.So the wave re-flection caused by the change of water depth cannot be neglected.     

Study on Coastal Protection Engineering in the Area of Abandoned Yellow River Mouth

This paper reviews the history of coast evolution and coastal protection in the area of theabandoned Yellow River mouth in Jiangsu Province,analyzes the erosion characteristics and dynamic en-vironment,evaluates the efficiency of coastal protection engineering works and designs the dimensions ofthe main seadike and offshore submerged dam.A gerneral scheme of shore protection for this area is pro-posed.     

The Statistical Distribution of the Horizontal Velocities of Water Particles at Wave Surface Maxima

On the basis of the linear model of random sea waves presented by Longuet-Higgins,the statis-tical distribution of the horizontal velocities of water particles at wave surface maxima is derivedtheoretically.The derived distribution is similar to that of wave surface maxima,and a new spectral widthε_u,which is defined as(1-(m_3~2/m_2m_4))~(1/2),is introduced in the distribution.When ε_u tends to zero,the distribu-tion is reduced to Rayleigh distribution and it is reduced to the normal distribution when ε_u tends to unity.For a narrow spectrum,it is proved that ε is equal to 1/2ε,where ε is(1-(m_2~2/m_0m_4))~(1/2)and is the commonlyused spectral width..     

非线性效应对浅水水波变形的影响

本文采用波数矢量无旋和波能守恒方程建立了一个考虑非线性作用的浅水水波变形数值模型,模型中采用Ｂａｔｔｊｅｓ关系与波数矢量无旋,波能守恒方程一起来求解波浪在浅水中变形的波浪要素,在波能守恒方程中考虑了底摩擦的影响。利用本文提出的数值模型对一个斜坡浅滩水域波浪折射绕射现象进行了验证,验证计算中用一个非线性经验弥散关系近似浅水水波变形的非线性效应并与用线性弥散关系的计算结果进行了比较,结果说明使用非线性     

海洋平台隔水套管群桩性状的研究

海洋平台的隔水套管群桩与土共同作用研究是一个很复杂的课题,目前国内外研究资料甚少,因此在平台导管架设计中,一般不考虑隔水套管群桩承受水平力作用,这与实际不相符合。本文结合工程课题,在调查研究和模型试验的基础上,对隔水套管群桩在水平力作用下的工作性状与破坏机理、群桩的水平力及其主要影响因素、单桩与群桩情况下应力应变关系等方面进行较深入的研究;并提出砂土地基隔水套管群桩效应经验公式,弥补了现行计算方法的缺陷和不足。研究成果可供工程设计参考使用。     

The preliminary study of the high chlorophyll in the central Bohai Sea in summer

In the central Bohai Sea, both historical data and in situ observations show that the distribution of high chlorophyll concentration is consistent with warm water. The previous studies confirm that the warm water is caused by a joint effect of wave and tidal mixing. In this paper, the authors have coupled the Princeton ocean model (POM) with a biochemical model to further investigate the formation of the high chlorophyll concentration. When the wave mixing is excluded, the water temperature is lower and the chlorophyll concentration is also lower than the observation. However, if the wave mixing is included, strong wave mixing in the upper layer brings the warm water downward and nutrients upward so that both temperature and nutrients tend to be uniformly high from the surface to the bottom. This provides an environment which is favorable for the growth of the phytoplankton. Therefore the chlorophyll concentration, as a symbol of phytoplankton, shows high value in the central Bohai Sea. In conclusion, the wave mixing plays an important role in the formation of high chlorophyll concentration in the central Bohai Sea.     

波浪作用下粉土海床中的孔压响应试验研究

海床在波浪作用下是否稳定对海底工程的安全至关重要,海床的稳定性与土体中的孔压响应密切相关。水槽模拟试验表明:在波浪的作用下,黄河三角洲粉土海床中将产生振荡孔隙水压力和累积孔隙水压力。振荡孔隙水压力大小与土层深度、波高和粘粒含量有关,其振幅(能量)在土层中随深度的增加呈指数衰减,且粘粒含量越高衰减越快;加载波高越大,能量衰减越快。而累积孔压响应模式表现为在波浪作用最初的一段时间内,孔隙水压力快速上升,然后逐渐减小而趋于稳定,其大小和速率也与波高、粘粒含量、土层埋深有关,粘粒含量越高,孔压累积速度越低。     

Influence of Approach Channel on Wave Propagation with Varying Incident Angles

- The variation of the amplitude of waves with varying incident angles when waves propagate through a typical approach channel is discussed by a numerical calculation method, the result of which shows that the influence of the channel on wave propagation is obvious. When the wave propagation direction is in coincidence with the channel axis, the wave amplitude ratio will decrease with the increase of propagation distance. When the incident angle is 15 - 30 , there appears an area of larger wave amplitude ratio on the side slope facing the waves, but at the another side, the wave amplitude ratio is generally small, indicating that the channel has a shielding effect. When waves propagate across the channel perpendicularly, the wave amplitude ratio can be calculated with the shallow water coefficient.     

Dynamic Response Behaviors of Upright Breakwaters Under Breaking Wave Impact

- The dynamic response behaviors of upright breakwaters under broken wave impact are analysed based on the mass-damper-spring dynamic system model. The effects of the mass, damping, stiffness, natural period, and impulse duration (or oscillation period) on the translation, rotation, sliding force, overturning moment, and corresponding dynamic amplifying factors are studied. It is concluded that the ampli-ying factors only depend on the ratio of the system natural period to impulse duration (or oscillation period) under a certain damping ratio. Moreover, the equivalent static approach to breakwater design is also discussed.     

Refraction-Diffraction Mathematical Model for Waves With Lateral Energy Transmission Mechanism and Its Verification

To solve problems concerning wave elements and wave propagation, an effective way is the wave energy balance equation, which is widely applied in oceanography and ocean dynamics for its simple computation. The present papaer advances wave energy balance equations considering lateral energy transmission and energy loss as the governing equation for the study of wave refraction-diffraction. For the mathematical model, numerical simulation is made by means of difference method, and the result is verified with two examples.