随机海浪的列率谱分析研究

首次将列率谱分析的方法引入到随机海浪的研究。根据不同环境条件下实验室资料，对列率谱与频率谱进行了比较。结果表明，列率频对频率谱高频部分有明显改善，特别对二倍频含能段的分辨具有明显的优越性。另外，列率谱具有计算速度快、简单易行、分辨率高等优点。     

Wave-Current Forces on Small Square Cylinders (Part I)

-Based on the extended Morison Equation and model tests, the in-line forces on small square cylinders caused by waves (regular and irregular) and currents are analyzed in detail in this paper. The hydrodynamic coefficient CD and Cu related to KC number and the effect of direction of wave incidence are also given, which can be used in engineering practice.     

薛家岛湾沉积动力学特征及海港开发研究

于１９９０年秋对胶州湾内的薛家岛湾进行海洋水动力条件及积动力学特征,泥沙运动规律研究,为开发建设港口提供科学依据。结果表明,湾内深大于１ｍ的海底泥沙发生“全面移动”的时间,一年内仅有１－２ｄ,其余处于稳定状态或“表面移动”状态。湾内泥沙来源很少,预计建港后,港池和航道年平均回淤量分别小于１６ｃｍ,１０ｃｍ对于开发中小型港口十分有利。     

A model of the formation and development of ocean shear wave

Ａｍｏｄｅｌｏｆｔｈｅｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｄｅｖｅｌｏｐｍｅｎｔｏｆｏｃｅａｎｓｈｅａｒｗａｖｅ￥ＱｉａｏＦａｎｇｌｉａｎｄＺｈａｎｇＱｉｎｇｈｕａ（ＦｉｒｓｔＩｎｓｔｉｔｕｔｅｏｆＯｃｅａｎｏｇｒａｐｈｙ，ｓｔａｔｅｏｃｅａｎｉｃＡｄｍｉｎｉｓ...     

波浪作用下岸坡和海底平衡条件的研究

提出波浪作用下岸坡和海底动态和静态平衡条件的数学模型。在已建立的推移质泥沙体积输沙率基本关系式的基础上,根据连续方程,计算出底坡、泥沙、波浪三要素在动态和静态平衡情况下的关系式,得出反映这种关系的底坡平衡函数曲线图。用实际资料对这一函数曲线进行了验证,并对实际资料相对模型的某些差异作出解释。     

Research on Characteristics of Density Current Under the Action of Waves

In this paper,the characteristics of density current under the action of waves are describedwith the help of flume experiment and theoretical analysis.The study shows that turbid water under the ac-tion of the waves can present three types of motion,i.e.significant stratification,fragile stratification andstrong mixing.The motion of turbid water presents significant stratification when(H/D)/△ρ/ρ~(1/2)≤4.5,generally this state is known as density current.The formulas of motionvelocity,thickness,and discharge of density current moving on horizontal bottom are derived by use of ba-sic equations such as momemtum equation,equation of energy conservation and continuity equation offluid.The time-average velocity and the thickness of density current under the action of waves have a rela-tionship with such parameters as relative density(△ρ/ρ),wave height(H),and water depth(D).Whenthese parameters are determined,the time-average thickness and motion velocity of density current are al-so determined.The relat     

波浪作用下异重流运动特性研究

本文通过水槽试验和理论分析手段对波浪作用下异重流运动特性进行了研究，应用流体运动基本方程推导了异重流在水平底面运动时的运动速度、厚度和流量表达式。结果表明，计算结果与水槽试验较一致     

考虑底摩擦的波浪折射计算

本文用考虑底摩擦的折射模式计算了浅水中波高和波向分布。作为一个例子,根据不同的摩擦系数和不同的边界条件计算了一种简单海底地形的折射系数、衰减系数和折射角,所得结果与不考虑底摩擦的折射模式结果进行比较,发展它们之间存在一些差异,表明在浅水中底摩擦对波高有一定影响。     

Dynamic Analysis of a Single-Column Platform (II)

This paper describes the study of a single-column structure used as well-head platform. In order to check the reliability of computation theory and programme, model tests have been carried out. The paper introduces the conclusion of tests and the dynamic properties of single-column platform are obtained.     

Calculating Method and Verification of Wave Pressure Distribution on the Breast Wall of Mound Breakwater

In this paper, the calculating charts and formulae about wave pressure on the breast wall are derived with seven parameters on the basis of physical model study. The verification shows that the charts agree with the example, and are adopted in the Specifications of Fishery Harbours Breakwater by the Ministry of Agricultures.