Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.     

南海天然气水合物的形成和分布

从物理海洋、古气候、沉积环境和构造环境分析入手，研究了南海天然气水合物的形成条件。研究结果表明，在整个南海海域，天然气水合物生成的条件是存在差别的。南海，东北部，在氧同位素2、4、6期，由于菲律宾海的高盐度海水的注入，使这里的生物生产率特别高，陆坡上沉积了丰富的有机物质，加上此期间该处的沉积速率高，为天然气水合物的生成提供了物质条件；另外，自中新世末以来，由于菲律宾海板块与欧亚板块在台湾地区发生碰撞，对南海北部产生北西向挤压，加快了流体在沉积物中的活动，为天然气水合物的生成提供了良好的构造环境。因此认为南海东北部陆坡应是南海天然气水合物最丰富的地区。     

卫星海洋遥感的发展和预报中心遥感应用

本文简要介绍了卫星海洋遥感的发展情况和可获得的海洋气象观测数据,介绍了预报中心卫星遥感的发展历史和现今状况,以及为海洋环境监测和预报提供的海洋遥感信息产品,并给出了部分产品示例.     

Rock magnetic records of the sediments of the eastern Arabian Sea: Evidence for late Quaternary climatic change

Rock-magnetic measurements along with grain size, acid-insoluble residue (AIR), organic carbon (OC), CaCO₃ and δ¹⁸O of the planktonic foraminifers of the sediments were determined for 15 gravity cores recovered from the western continental margin of India. Magnetic susceptibility (MS) values in the surficial sediments reflect the land-derived input and, in general, are the highest in terrigenous sediment-dominated sections of the cores off Saurashtra–Ratnagiri, followed by the sediments off Indus–Gulf of Kachchh and then Mangalore–Cape Comorin.

The down-core variations in mineral magnetic parameters reveal that the glacial sediments off the Indus are characterized by low MS values/S-ratios associated with high AIR-content, low OC/CaCO₃ contents and relatively high δ¹⁸O values, while those off SW India are characterized by low MS values/high S-ratio% associated with low AIR content, and relatively high OC, CaCO₃ and δ¹⁸O values. Conversely, the Early Holocene sediments of all cores are characterized by high MS values/S-ratio% associated with high AIR content, low OC, CaCO₃ contents and gradually decreased δ¹⁸O values. These results imply that during the Last Glacial Maximum (LGM), the cores off northwestern India received abundant continental supply leading to the predominance of eolian/fluvial sedimentation. In the SW region the influence of hinterland flux is less evident during this period, but convective mixing associated with the NE monsoon resulted in increased productivity. During the early Holocene intense SW monsoon conditions resulted in high precipitation on land, which in turn contributed increased AIR content/MS values in the continental margin sediments. A shallow water core off Kochi further suggests that the intense SW monsoon conditions prevailed until about 5 ka. The late Holocene organic-rich sediments of the SW margin of India were, however, subjected to early diagenesis at different intervals in the cores. Therefore, caution is needed when interpreting regional climatic change from down-core changes in sediment magnetic properties.     

山东近海牙鲆(Paralichthys olivaceus)自然和养殖群体10个微卫星基因座位的遗传多态性分析

采用微卫星遗传标记技术对山东近海牙鲆自然群体和养殖群体的遗传多样性进行了研究。实验所用牙鲆于2003年5月分别采自山东近海和青岛胶南养鱼场，各20尾，取全血或肌肉组织，以酚-仿抽提方法提取基因组DNA，利用筛选获得的10对微卫星引物进行PCR扩增，反应产物经8％非变性聚丙烯酰胺凝胶电泳分离、EB显色，用ImageMasterl D Elite(Version 3．01)软件分析电泳结果，并计算了相应的遗传学参数。结果表明，在自然和养殖群体中，10个基因座位的等位基因平均数(α)分别为6．7和6．1，每个基因座位有效等位基因数(αe)分别为1．8—6．8和2．5—6．7，群体平均杂合度(H)分别为0．8120和0．7310；两个群体间的遗传相似性系数、遗传距离和基因分化系数为0．8558、0．1557和0．0558；自然群体内每个座位上的多态信息含量(PIC)为0．59—0．84、个体识别率(DP)为0．54—0．86、非父排除率(PPE)为0．41—0．72，其累积个体识别率和非父排除率均达到0．9999，表明所选座位属中高识别力的遗传标记，可以将它们应用于今后牙鲆雌核发育群体的遗传变异分析以及进一步的遗传育种的研究中。     

The Agulhas Ridge, South Atlantic: The Peculiar Structure of a Fracture Zone

The Agulhas Ridge is a prominent topographic feature that parallels the Agulhas-Falkland Fracture Zone (AFFZ). Seismic reflection and wide angle/refraction data have led to the classification of this feature as a transverse ridge. Changes in spreading rate and direction associated with ridge jumps, combined with asymmetric spreading within the Agulhas Basin, modified the stress field across the fracture zone. Moreover, passing the Agulhas Ridge’s location between 80 and 69 Ma, the Bouvet and Shona Hotspots may have supplied excess material to this part of the AFFZ thus altering the ridge’s structure. The low crustal velocities and overthickened crust of the northern Agulhas Ridge segment indicate a possible continental affinity that suggests it may be formed by a small continental sliver, which was severed off the Maurice Ewing Bank during the opening of the South Atlantic. In early Oligocene times the Agulhas Ridge was tectono-magmatically reactivated, as documented by the presence of basement highs disturbing and disrupting the sedimentary column in the Cape Basin. We consider the Discovery Hotspot, which distributes plume material southwards across the AAFZ, as a source for the magmatic material.     

河口涨落潮槽水动力特征及河槽类型判定

在前人对河口冲刷槽研究的基础上,选择长江口南支、新桥水道、南小泓和南港主槽作为典型涨、落潮槽研究对象,以2001年洪季和2003年枯季实测资料为根据,比较分析了长江口涨落潮槽的水流、泥沙、优势流和优势沙等动力特征,结果表明用单一因子分析河槽性质不够全面.提出了一个(无量纲因子)河槽类型系数(λ)来综合表述河槽的多种水文泥沙特征,可以较全面地用多个影响因子来合理地判断河槽类型.     

Characteristics of Scour and Deposition in Front of Breakwaters Under Irregular Broken Clapotis

First the scour and deposition patterns of the sandy seabed in front of a vertical breakwater under the action of irregular broken clapotis are investigated experimentally and classified into five types: scour type Ⅰ , scour type Ⅱ, scour type Ⅲ, deposition type Ⅰ, and deposition type Ⅱ . Secondly, the processes of formation of scour and deposition patterns are probed in comparison with those induced by regular broken clapotis and standing waves. Thirdly, the criteria for distinguishing scour and deposition patterns under irregular broken clapotis are presented.     

Variations in wave direction estimated using first and second order Fourier coefficients

In most design applications such as alignment of the berthing structure and breakwater alignment, it becomes necessary to determine the direction of design wave. There are two different approaches to determine wave direction. One involves the use of first order Fourier coefficients (mean wave direction) while the other uses second order Fourier coefficients (principal wave direction). Both the average wave direction over the entire frequency range (0.03–0.58 Hz) and the direction corresponding to the peak frequency are used in practice. In the present study, comparison is made on wave directions estimated based on first and second order Fourier coefficients using data collected at four locations in the west and east coasts of India. Study shows that at all locations, the mean and principal wave directions for frequencies ranging from 0.07 to 0.25 Hz (±0.5 times peak frequency) co-vary with a correlation coefficient of 0.99 but at lower and higher frequencies, difference between the parameters is large. Average difference between the mean wave direction at peak frequency and the average over the frequency related to spectral energy more than 20% of maximum value is less, around 13°. Study shows that average difference in the sea and swell directions is around 39°.     

近2600年神农架大九湖泥炭的气候变化记录

神农架大九湖沼泽泥炭柱状样提供了分辨率为25a的约2600a来的气候变化记录。对样品进行了环境磁学参数测量、X射线荧光分析(XRF)、孢粉鉴定和统计建模，结果表明，大九湖气温的变化曲线与竺可桢中国东部的物候温度曲线以及格陵兰氧同位素变化曲线大体一致，与青藏高原东部希门错湖泊沉积物温度代用指标的变化曲线也十分相似。特别是550—1300AD间的相对温暖期，与竺可桢首次提出来的中国东部隋唐温暖期(约600-1000AD)和欧洲的中世纪暖期(930-1240AD)在时间跨度上大致对应。可划分为4个阶段：(1)600BC—550AD，气候相对冷湿；(2)550—1300AD，气候相对凉干；(3)1300—1900AD，气候又转变为冷湿，其中最冷期1400—1900AD可与欧洲的小冰期对应；(4)1900AD至今，气候又开始转向相对凉干。同时发现低频磁化率χlf与铁元素含量之比(χlf／Fe)的变化曲线与利用孢粉分析数据恢复的大九湖气候变化曲线对应得很好，特别是二者都清晰地显示了500—1300AD为一相对暖期。这预示着χlf／Fe可能是泥炭剖面的一个更好的气候记录代用指标。