A new approximation for ocean waves propagating over a beach with variable depth

In this paper, the phenomenon of ocean waves propagating over a beach with variable water depth is re-examined. Based on the assumption of shallow water, a linearised shallow water equation is solved with an arbitrary beach profile. These irregular beach profiles form a set of partial differential equation with variable coefficient as the governing equation, which is the main obstacle in obtaining analytical solutions. In this paper, two families of beach profile are used as examples. A parametric study is conducted to investigate the influence of the beach profiles on the water surface elevation (η) and velocities (u).     

琉球沟弧盆系莫氏面深度的三维广义反演

本文利用三维广义反演技术对重力资料进行反演，计算出了琉球沟弧盆系地区的莫氏面深度。由于考虑了分辨率和方差之间的最佳折衷问题，反演结果不论是在精度上还是在分辨能力方面都有了明显改进。分析结果也表明，重力反演得到的莫氏面深度同李昭兴等人用地震折射波法得到的莫氏面深度有较大的差别。文中地产生这种差别的可能原因提出了自己的见解。     

Internal generation of waves on an arc in a rectangular grid system

This paper presents a technique to generate waves at oblique angles in finite difference numerical models in a rectangular grid system by using internal generation technique [Lee, C., Suh, K.D., 1998. Internal generation of waves for time-dependent mild-slope equations. Coast. Eng. 34, 35–57.] along an arc-shaped line source. Tests were made for four different types of wave generation layouts. Quantitative experiments were conducted under the following conditions: the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, the refraction and shoaling of waves on a planar slope, and the diffraction of waves to a semi-infinite breakwater. Numerical experiments were conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [Suh, K.D., Lee, C., Park, W.S., 1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coast. Eng. 32, 91–117.]. The fourth layout type consisting of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle showed the best solutions, especially for a small grid size. This technique is useful for the numerical simulation of irregular waves with broad-banded directional spectrum using conventional spectral wave models for the reasonable estimation of bottom friction and wave-breaking.     

Scour below pipelines and around vertical piles in random waves

An approach by which the scour depth and scour width below a fixed pipeline and scour depth around a circular vertical pile in random waves can be derived is presented. Here, the scour depth formulas by Sumer and Fredsøe [ASCE J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 116 (1990) 307] for pipelines and Sumer et al. [ASCE J. Waterw., Port, Coastal Ocean Eng. 114 (1992) 599] for vertical piles as well as the scour width formula by Sumer and Fredsøe [The Mechanics of Scour in the Marine Environment, World Scientific, Singapore, 2002] for pipelines combined with describing the waves as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process are used to derive the cumulative distribution functions of the scour depths and width. Comparisons are made between the present approach and random wave scour data. Tentative approaches to related random wave scour cases are also suggested.     

自容/直读式温/深测量仪的设计

介绍一种水下温度和深度测量仪器的设计方案和关键技术。该仪器的特点是精度高、体积小、耗电省和成本低，具有自容式记录和直读显示两种工作方式。     

Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Second-Order Random Ocean Waves in Finite Water Depth

Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in tinite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth-integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all detemained by the water depth and the wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.     

南海东北部深部构造与中新生代沉积盆地

利用OBS资料作约束条件对南海东北部的地球物理资料，主要是重力资料和多道反射地震资料进行反演，获取比较理想的莫霍面深度，地壳厚度，中生代沉积基底面，新生代沉积底界面等地壳结构信息，研究发现该区中生代沉积盆地形成模式与新生代沉积盆地的形成模式不同，中生代沉积基底与莫霍面呈正相关，而新生代沉积基底则与莫霍面呈明显的镜像关系。中生仝层不受边界断层控制，中生代沉积基底与莫霍面呈正相关，而新生代沉积基底则与莫霍面呈明显的镜像关系。中生代地层不受边界断层控制。中生代沉积坳陷边界实质上是残留的中生代地层的边界，中生代沉积盆地具有大型坳陷沉积特征，而新生代盆地为断陷盆地。