Response of the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria to climate and non-climate forcing

Despite threats emanating from the influence of climate and non-climate forcing on the barrier island coastal region of southwestern Nigeria, the extent of the coastal erosion is poorly understood. We report evidence of coastal erosion and sediment accumulation in the region over a 34-year period (1973–2017), using Landsat imagery at intervals of approximately six years. Landsat image corrections and various water-extraction algorithms were used to systematically delineate coastal erosion and accumulation in the area. The region was subdivided into western and eastern subregions separated by Lagos Harbour. In the west, erosion took place during the periods 1973–1979, 1979–1984, 1990–1999 and 2005–2011, whereas in the east, erosion occurred during 1973–1979, 1990–1999 and 1999–2005. Coastal sediment accumulation occurred in the east during 1979–1984, 1984–1990, 2005–2011 and 2011–2017, whereas gains in the west occurred during 1984–1990, 1999–2005 and 2011–2017. The study revealed substantial net erosion of 1 228.1 ha in the region as a whole, over the full period. Sediment accumulation accompanying the coastal erosion appears to be linked to longshore drift. Erosion between 1973 and 2011 was probably attributable to climate change (storms and tidal conditions), longshore drift, the inflow and outflow of water at Lagos Harbour, coastal morphology and, possibly, human impacts. However, the coastal changes between 2011 and 2017 were more obviously associated with human activities, such as development of the Eko Atlantic construction project. Coastal surveillance, together with the use of environmentally sensitive protective measures, could possibly help to reduce coastal erosion in the region. Careful coastal management practices, including artificial nourishing and the installation of resilient structures (e.g. seawalls), should be undertaken to protect human settlements that are already at risk from sea-level rise.     

日本海岸工程研究进展——第52回日本海岸工学讲演会介绍

介绍了日本第52回海岸工学讲演会的概况,从海岸灾害、海岸生态环境、波浪与水流、海岸泥沙运动与地形变化、海岸建筑物等5个方面综述了日本海岸工程研究的进展情况。     

风暴潮灾害情景下海岸带暴露指数时空演变研究——以福建省东山湾为例

暴露指数反映了环境在面对极端天气事件时承受灾害的潜在风险程度。研究利用遥感影像数据、数字高程数据(DEM)、海洋水深及风力数据等, 基于暴露指数模型, 以福建省东山湾为案例研究区域, 对风暴潮灾害情景下的海岸带暴露指数及其时空演变进行分析。研究结果显示: (1)近十年来, 东山湾海岸带暴露指数总体呈下降趋势, 潜在风险程度为“中”及以上区域占比由67.14%下降至59.06%, 海岸带在面对风暴潮灾害等极端天气事件时潜在的风险程度总体降低, 海湾地貌类型差异及其形态变化是影响东山湾暴露指数产生波动的主要原因; (2)基于暴露指数评价结果, 结合海岸带开发利用现状, 研究可对东山湾海岸带生态环境的敏感区域进行识别, 并制定具有针对性的开发利用与风险防范对策, 为海岸带空间规划、生态保护修复格局的科学划定提供理论支撑, 在助力海岸带陆海统筹和可持续发展上具有重要意义; (3)研究提出的一种基于时间序列的暴露指数研究技术路线和框架, 可为海岸带脆弱性评估、海岸带韧性评估、海岸带灾害监测预警等相关研究提供新的研究视角, 在基于深度学习的海岸带灾害风险预警与灾害模拟等方面也具有较为广阔的应用前景。     

A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.     

Descriptive Analysis and Classification of Benthic Communities in Some Mediterranean Coastal Lagoons (Central Italy)

Abstract. Benthic samples were taken seasonally at 32 stations in five coastal lagoons of Central Italy (Fogliano, Monaci, Caprolace, Fondi, and Lungo) during a two-year period (1982–1984). Composition and distribution of benthic populations in each lagoon as well as seasonal trends of species richness, density, diversity, and redundancy are presented and discussed.
The faunal differentiation appeared to be mainly due to the different degree of water exchange, both with marine and continental systems.     

工程养护海滩对"803"风暴潮的响应过程研究

研究养护海滩对风暴潮的响应过程在人工养滩工程设计与施工中具有重要意义。老龙头养护海滩在竣工半个月后遭遇“803”风暴潮,导致岸滩滩肩最大蚀退 6.5 m,沙坝坝顶最大下蚀 1.2 m。在现场测量的基础上,利用 XBeach 建立风暴潮过程 的老龙头海滩海床演变模型,研究结果表明： （1） XBeach 模拟结果与实际地形变化侵淤趋势一致,风暴潮期间人工沙坝均向岸移动,但模拟结果的侵蚀程度更大,海滩响应更加剧烈; （2） 强浪条件下人工沙坝的透射系数为 0.29~0.42,常浪条件下透射系数为 0.45~0.95,因而人工沙坝在大浪条件下掩护作用更佳; （3） 风暴潮期间人工沙坝附近破波显著,坝顶流速明显增大,最大可达 1.21 m/s,是无人工沙坝情况下的 2.3 倍,而在人工沙坝向岸侧,因波能提前耗散,流速减为 0.28 m/s,是无人工沙坝时的 0.4 倍,且没有产生离岸流。老龙头养护工程整体泥沙损失较少,易于恢复.     

基于云模型的海岸脆弱性评估 ——以厦门岛为例

脆弱性评估很大程度上存在着模糊性和随机性,为有效解决评估过程中定性概念与评估指标按隶属函数定量描述这一不确定转换问题,本文基于云理论本文选取海岸地貌、海岸高程、海岸坡度、海岸缓冲能力、有效波高、道路价值和建筑价值为指标,构建了厦门岛海岸脆弱性评估指标体系,运用云模型评估手段定量测度了厦门岛海岸脆弱性空间分异特征。评估结果与客观情况比较吻合,检验了指标体系的合理性和评估模型的适用性。本文提出了海岸脆弱性综合评估模型,实用有效,可以推广到与厦门岛类似的区域,为海岸管理及规划提供科学指导。     

An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave process.These upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.     

重点海水浴场主要肠道病毒的调查

海水浴场作为重要的娱乐场所,其水质卫生状况对保障公众健康极其重要。对全国重点海水浴场中轮状病毒、星状病毒和脊髓灰质炎病毒进行了调查,因为这3种病毒是引发腹泻性胃肠炎的重要病原。2007年8月选定全国10个重点海水浴场,于游泳区设定2个站位,无菌采集表层海水,用Millipore的病毒浓缩包进行海水中病毒的浓缩,用RT-PCR进行三种病毒的监测。调查结果显示:轮状病毒阳性检出率达40%(8/20)、星状病毒的为35%(7/20)、脊髓灰质炎病毒的为35%(7/20);在这十大重点海水浴场中,除北海一处无病毒检出外,其余均有不同程度的病毒阳性检出,表明我国的重点海水浴场水质已经遭受肠道病毒不同程度的污染。建议相关部门应该加强海水浴场的卫生管理,避免公众因在海水浴场娱乐导致疾病。