Multiple longshore sand bars in the upper Chesapeake Bay

In the upper Chesapeake Bay (Maryland, U.S.A.) field surveys were conducted at 18 multiple longshore sand bar sites. The multiple bar systems were found in water depths less than approximately 2 m (mean sea level), and exhibited mild bottom slopes of 0·0052 or less. The number of bars composing each system ranged from four to 17 and the spacing between the crests typically increased in the offshore direction, ranging from 12 to 70 m. Bar height also typically increased with distance offshore and ranged from 0·03 to 0·61 m. A grain size analysis of crest and trough sediment did not reveal any significant differences and the sediment was categorized as ‘fine sand’. A review of the literature data indicated that the Chesapeake Bay multiple bars possessed similar characteristics to those found in Gelding Bay (Baltic Sea); similarities in fetch, wave height and tidal range between the two bays may account for this finding. The surf-scaling parameter indicated that the multiple bar systems were extremely dissipative with regard to wave energy, and wave height appeared to be an important factor in controlling bar spacing and bar height. A multiple wave break point hypothesis was discussed as a possible mechanism for the formation of Chesapeake Bay multiple longshore bars, and limited observational evidence appeared to support such a mechanism.     

Particulate organic matter in the coastal and estuarine waters of Goa and its relationship with phytoplankton production

In the coastal and estuarine waters of Goa, particulate organic carbon (POC) varied from 0.52 to 2.51 mg l^?1 and from 0.28 to 5.24 mg l^?1 and particulate phosphorus (PP) varied from 0.71 to 5.18 μg l^?1 and from 0.78 to 20.34 μg l^?1, respectively. The mean values of chlorophyll and primary productivity were 1.94 mg m^?3 and 938.1 mg C m^?2 day^?1 in the coastal waters and 4.3 mg m^?3 and 636.5 mg C m^?1 day^?1 in the estuarine waters, respectively.$\text{POC}\text{chl}$ ratios were low in June and October even when POC values were quite high. The POC in surface waters was linearly correlated with the chlorophyll content. Also PP increased when chlorophyll and primary productivity remained high. The results suggest that the phytoplankton was sharply increasing and contributed to POC and PP content. The percentage of detritus calculated from the intercept values of chlorophyll on POC varied from 46 to 76% depending on season. Results indicate that the major portion of POC and PP during postmonsoon (October–January) is derived from phytoplankton production while the allochthonous matter predominate during monsoon (June–September).     

利用CEEMD分析中国沿海GNSS站高程时序变化

利用完备经验模态分解方法（CEEMD）对我国沿海地区6个GNSS基准站（2010—2018）的高程时序数据进行了处理分析。结果表明：CEEMD在高程时间序列分析中具有一定的优越性,可准确分解出各GNSS站高程时序中存在的周、月、季节、年等变化周期项,其中周年运动是主要贡献项,各站高程时间序列的短周期变化与潮汐变化周期具有密切关联性;沿海GNSS站的地面沉降既具有区域的一致性,又存在区域间差异性,其中D区DBJO、DZJJ站呈现先下降后上升的趋势,N区NZUH、NWZU站呈下降趋势,B区的BZMW呈上升趋势,而同海区的BLHT站则呈显著的下降趋势。     

三亚三美湾和鹿回头湾人工沙滩设计

通过分析三亚三美湾和鹿回头湾不同的海岸地貌、沉积物类型、水动力条件和岸线形态,结合岸滩演变和水动力数值模型,因地制宜提出不同的人工沙滩设计方法、平面布置方案,选取了粒径合适的回填沙,确定了合理的防波(潜)堤修筑位置和高程。人工沙滩工程完成后滩面形态、岸线走向和景观稳定,达到了改善海岸环境的预期效果。     

In situ heavy metals (copper, lead and cadmium) in different plankton compartments and suspended particulate matter in two coupled Mediterranean coastal ecosystems (Toulon Bay, France)

We monitored the concentrations of copper, lead and cadmium in seawater, in suspended particulate matter (SPM) and in bacteria, phyto- and zooplankton communities separated from abiogenic particles, over a one year cycle in two coupled Mediterranean coastal ecosystems (Little Bay (LiB) and Large Bay (LaB)). Metals were present in seawater in the order Cu > Pb > Cd in both bays and showed important variations within the same month than among months. In LiB, their concentrations were between 0.62 and 2.82 μg Cu l⁻¹, 0.16 and 19 μg Pb l⁻¹ and 0.007 and 0.14 μg Cd l⁻¹, respectively, whereas in LaB, they were between 0.23 and 2.11 μg Cu l⁻¹, 0.09 and 0.76 μg Pb l⁻¹ and not detected and 0.65 μg Cd l⁻¹. SPM play an important role on metal adsorption, especially for copper. Bioaccumulation factors showed that bacteria and phytoplankton accumulate metals whereas zooplankton tends to biodiminish them in the plankton food web.     

Longshore drift estimation using fluorescent tracers: New insights from an experiment at Comporta Beach, Portugal

A fluorescent sand-tracer experiment was performed at Comporta Beach (Portugal) with the aim of acquiring longshore sediment transport data on a reflective beach, the optimization of field and laboratory tracer procedures and the improvement of the conceptual model used to support tracer data interpretation.

The field experiment was performed on a mesotidal reflective beach face in low energetic conditions (significant wave height between 0.4 and 0.5 m). Two different colour tracers (orange and blue) were injected at low tide and sampled in the two subsequent low tides using a high resolution 3D grid extending 450 m alongshore and 30 m cross-shore. Marked sand was detected using an automatic digital image processing system developed in the scope of the present experiment.

Results for the two colour tracers show a remarkable coherence, with high recovery rates attesting data validity. Sand tracer displayed a high advection velocity, but with distinct vertical distribution patterns in the two tides: in the first tide there was a clear decrease in tracer advection velocity with depth while in the second tide, the tracer exhibited an almost uniform vertical velocity distribution. This differing behaviour suggests that, in the first tide, the tracer had not reached equilibrium within the transport system, pointing to a considerable time lag between injection and complete mixing. This issue has important implications for the interpretation of tracer data, indicating that short term tracer experiments tend to overestimate transport rates. In this work, therefore, longshore estimates were based on tracer results obtained during the second tide.

The estimated total longshore transport rate at Comporta Beach was 2 × 10^− 3 m³/s, more than four times larger than predicted using standard empirical longshore formulas. This discrepancy, which results from the unusually large active moving layer observed during the experiment, confirms the idea that most common longshore transport equations under-estimate total sediment transport in plunging/surging waves.     

莱州湾海岸带环境与功能区划初探

利用国家海洋局第一海洋研究所2007—2008年莱州湾地下水监测数据,在甄别、整理的基础上,进行了相关分析、主成分和聚类分析。根据聚类分析各类别的地下水质特征,同时考虑到区域的可持续发展,划分出海水入侵预防治理区、海水入侵重点治理区、养殖与海化产业区和海化工业区共四个区域。     

Characteristics of tropical cyclones making landfall on the Pacific coast of Mexico: 1970-2010

This study evaluates impacts from tropical cyclone (TC) landfalls on populated areas located along the Pacific Ocean coast of Mexico. The period of interest is from 1970 through 2010 and an international disaster database is used to identify the impact from the landfalling TCs. More than 30 landfall events occurred during the period; we examined the top 25 TCs based on rainfall accumulation, as well as the top 10 TC-related disasters based on the affected population. Each event resulted in affected population from 20 000 to more than 800 000. Strong winds and heavy rainfall, during periods of one to three days, are associated with property damage and loss of lives. Our results indicate that excessive rainfall accumulations and daily rates, over highly populated areas, are important elements associated with the occurrence of disasters. Six of the top 10 TC-related disasters occurred during El Niño and three during neutral conditions; however, looking at the top 25 events, 10 occurred during El Niño and 10 during neutral conditions. Three case studies that occurred during El Niño events (Liza in 1976, Pauline in 1997, and Lane in 2006) are documented in more detail as they affected areas with different population densities in the southern and northwestern coasts of Mexico.     

Controls on the morphological evolution of embayed beaches: Morphometry versus external forcing

The morphological evolution of embayed beaches on a microtidal coast is assumed to largely respond to the degree of exposure to wave conditions, decreasing the mobility with increasing beach indentation (and vice versa). However, the number of sediment arrivals at the beach or the impact of extreme storms can modify this relationship. Here, we present an analysis of 10 embayed beaches along the Catalan coast with different morphometric and sedimentary characteristics to identify the most relevant parameters controlling the morphological evolution of these embayed beaches at the inter-annual and decadal scales. The study was mostly based on LiDAR topographic data collected from 2012 to 2017, aerial photographs from 1945 to 2021, sediment sampling and a long-term series analysis of the forcing parameters (waves, sea level, precipitation and land-use changes). The results show a net loss of volume on all the studied beaches at an inter-annual scale and a general shoreline retreat during the last few decades, suggesting the influence of common processes on the evolution of the studied beaches. Smaller pocket beaches with medium-to-high indentations are more sensitive to changes induced by local factors and show higher variability in the volume of the emerged beach and shoreline position than larger beaches. The most relevant factors influencing the evolution of the studied beaches on a decadal scale were identified as changes in sea level and the reduction in sediment inputs provided by streams due to land-use changes in the drainage basin. At the inter-annual scale, the impact of extreme events is the main factor controlling beach behaviour. These general trends can be opposite locally for beaches that receive large amounts of sediment via longshore transport from adjacent beaches.