Beach–dune interactions on the dry–temperate Danube delta coast

Beach–dune seasonal elevation changes, aeolian sand transport measurements, bathymetric surveys and shoreline evolution assessments were used to investigate annual and seasonal patterns of dune development on Sfântu Gheorghe beach, the Danube delta coast, from 1997 to 2004. Dune volume increased consistently (1.96 m³ m^− 1 y^− 1 to 5.1 m³ m^− 1 y^− 1) over this 7-year period with higher rates in the southward (downdrift) direction. Dune aggradation is periodically limited by storms, each of which marks a new evolutionary phase of the beach–dune system. As a consequence of the variable beach morphology and vegetation density during a year, foredune growth occurs during the April–December interval while between December and April a slightly erosive tendency is present. The pattern of erosion and deposition shown by the topographical surveys is in good agreement with the sand transport measurements and demonstrates the presence of a vigorous sand flux over the foredunes which is 20–50% smaller than on the beach. This high sand flux, due to low precipitation and sparse vegetation cover, creates an aerodynamically efficient morphology on the seaward dune slope. The seaward dune face accretes during low to medium onshore winds (5.5–12 m s^− 1) and erodes during high winds (> 12 m s^− 1).     

Abundance,Tidal Movement,Population Structure and Burrowing Rate of Emerita analoga (Anomura,Hippidae) at a Dissipative and a Reflective Sandy Beach in South Central Chile

Abstract. To evaluate the effects of beach morphodynamics upon the abundance, tidal movement, population structure and burrowing rate of the crab Emerita analoga (Stimpson) (Anomura, Hippidae) we sampled two beaches in south central Chile (ca. 42° S), Mar Brava and Ahui with dissipative and reflective characteristics, res­pectively. The swash zone at the dissipative beach was 5 – 6 times wider than that of the reflective beach. A at the dissipative beach, upwash speeds were higher and the number of effluent line crossings were lower by more than an order of magnitude. To examine the tidal movement of E. analoga, we collected crabs from 5 to 6 tidal levels of each beach every 2 h across 12 h of the tidal cycle. The intertidal distribution of crabs differed between beaches; i. e., at the dissipative beach they were primarily located at the swash zone, while at the reflective beach they were mostly located at the low tide level and shallow subtidal. The change in position of crabs was pronounced across the tidal cycle at the dissipative beach (Mar Brava), with most of the animals remaining in the active swash zone. Body size data were used to construct size frequency distributions for each population. Crabs from the dissipative beach reached larger sizes than those at the reflective beach. Sediments were coarser at the latter versus the former beach. Crabs burrowed at similar rates in the sand from both beaches, a result which supports the idea that E. analoga is a “sediment generalist” capable of burrowing successfully in a wide range of sediment types. This characteristic is likely a key to the broad success of this species on the full range of beach morphodynamic types along the coasts of South and North America.     

雷州半岛南部海滩沉积物单一样和平行样粒度分布信息的对比

前人已开展了大量的关于沉积物粒度测试、数据分析与信息提取工作,但针对所采集的沉积物样品是否具有代表性的研究仍较为罕见。基于众数、中值粒径、粒级组分含量、沉积物类型和粒度参数等指标,本文对比分析了雷州半岛南部海滩30组沉积物平行样的粒度分布参数的定量和定性结果的异同、相关性和一致性。研究结果表明：（1）平行样的众数、中值粒径和粒级组分含量均表现出一定程度的差异性;（2）平行样的偏态和峰态特征值差异较为明显,P1平均值分别为–2.90～–1.53和11.23～21.59,P2为–2.55～–1.52和11.23～21.59,P3为–2.81～–1.86和13.41～27.69;（3）粒度参数的数值结果有约2/3的组合呈不相关关系（R² ≤ 0.29）;（4）分选系数、偏态和峰态分别有1/3、1/2和4/15的定性结果存在差异。沉积物粒度分布信息的空间异质性和样品采集的随机性是上述差异的主要原因。为了尽可能消除样品采集的随机性和刻画粒度分布信息的时空异质性,建议未来样品采集时同时采集平行样。本文提供了一个以海滩沉积物为研究对象的平行样粒度参数结果对比的典型案例,结果有助于提升对沉积物样品有效采集策略方面的认识。     

Application of empirical models to bay-shaped beaches in Portugal

Three models were applied to analyse the planform of bay-shaped Portuguese beaches. They are based on empirical mathematical functions: the logarithmic spiral bay equation, the hyperbolic-tangent bay equation, and the parabolic bay equation. These models were applied to analyse the fitting to the beach planform of 42 beaches on the Portuguese Atlantic coast which was calculated through the validation against the waterline extracted from rectified aerial photographs. The logarithmic spiral model fits well the curved zone of the beaches, in particular small beaches with two headlands. Despite the good fitting of the hyperbolic-tangent model for one headland beach, its process of approximation to the solution was less intuitive than the processes of the other two models, therefore its application was more exhaustive. A comparative analysis between the logarithmic spiral model and the hyperbolic-tangent model revealed the best fit of the first. The application of the parabolic model allowed to conclude that despite the majority of the beaches analysed being in dynamic equilibrium condition due to the high energy wave regime of the Portuguese Atlantic coast, their planform was very close to the planform in static equilibrium condition due to the high dynamics of the coastal environment.     

Pecten as a new substrate for IcPD dating: The quaternary raised beaches in the Gulf of Corinth,Greece

Intra-crystalline protein diagenesis (IcPD), a recent development of amino acid racemization dating (AAR), is now established as a reliable geochronological tool for the Quaternary. However, extending the method to new biominerals requires extensive testing in order to provide evidence for the closed-system behaviour of the intra-crystalline proteins and to assess the temporal span that can be covered.Here we present results from high-temperature experiments on the IcPD of the bivalve Pecten, demonstrating that a fraction of proteins can be isolated from a bleach-resistant mineral matrix, which effectively operates as a closed system under conditions of accelerated diagenesis in the laboratory. Analyses of Pecten from the well-dated terrace system of the Gulf of Corinth (Greece) provided a pilot test for the integrity of the intra-crystalline fraction in subfossil shells. The small sample sizes in this preliminary study preclude a full assessment of the aminostratigraphic power of Pecten IcPD, but a concordance is observed between the extent of IcPD and sites dating from between MIS 5 and MIS 11.We conclude that Pecten is a potentially good substrate for IcPD dating in the Mediterranean, and that the temporal limit of the technique in this area lies beyond MIS 11.     

Overwash processes along a gravel beach in south-east Ireland

Recent overwashing, and to a more limited extent overtopping, has occurred on a gravel-dominated beach just west of Carnsore Point in south-east Ireland. At relatively low points swash excursions have breached the duneline and extensive gravel fans have formed on landward-facing slopes. Also, at interbreach positions, swash ramps have been built-up in front of previously eroding dune cliffs, allowing overtopping at heights of up to 5 m above MHWOST, spreading a veneer of sediment over the adjacent dune ridge. In both cases events appear to be preceded by erosion and backbeach sand and gravel deposition. Stratigraphic, textural and fabric analyses assist in identifying environmental conditions that prevailed during overwash throat and fan, and overtopping ramp, sedimentation.     

Control of Phosphate Concentration through Adsorption and Desorption Processes in Groundwater and Seawater Mixing at Sandy Beaches in Tokyo Bay, Japan

Field observation was conducted to monitor phosphate concentrations in groundwater and seawater mixing at two sandy beaches in Futtsu and Miura in Tokyo Bay, Japan. Dissolved phosphate concentrations were measured along transects from fresh groundwater aquifer to seawater adjacent the beaches. The concentrations were often high (up to 46 µM) in fresh groundwater samples (Cl^– < 0.2). Coastal seawater, on the other hand, exhibited low phosphate concentrations (1.5 µM or less). Along the transects, phosphate generally displayed non-conservative behavior during mixing of fresh and saline waters in the aquifer; concentrations as high as 100 µM were found around the upper limit of seawater intrusion (Cl^– = 2). Laboratory experiments were executed to identify the processes that control the phosphate behavior in the mixing processes. The results revealed that adsorption-desorption processes by the aquifer sand particles could significantly control the phosphate concentrations in the groundwater. Furthermore, the adsorption and/or desorption was found to be a function of salinity; the equilibrium concentration of dissolved phosphate in slurry of sand and water was the highest in freshwater and decreased considerably in saline water. The extreme concentration of phosphate may be caused by release from sand particles coinciding with the rapid change in salinity with tide.     

Hydrodynamics of a headland-bay beach—Nearshore current circulation

This paper is devoted to the analysis of the hydrodynamic equilibrium of a headland or semi-elliptic shaped beach. It is shown that the state of equilibrium depends not only on the in- and outgoing sediment but also on the accommodation of the sediment within the embayment. The shape and relative depth of shoals, or settling zones, also directly affect the wave and current patterns inside the bay, within which the resultant breaker line almost stops wave-induced currents at some locations, whereas the magnitude of current increases at other locations. Several numerical tests are analytically conducted in a semi-elliptic beach with two symmetrical shoals of varying relative depth where circulatory current systems are detected and analyzed. Numerical modelling for wave climate and wave-induced current estimation is also presented in order to corroborate results and provide a tool for complicated and/or physical domains. The results lead to a redefinition of the concept of equilibrium for headland-bay beaches taking into account not only the net sediment transport but also the role of the formation and disappearance of settling zones, as well as sediment interchanges between the beach and shoals.