双峰谱型海浪的波高和周期分布

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，把这些资料以波高和周期的相关系数为参数分成５组，讨论每组双峰谱型下被高、周期的统计分布．并探讨了相关系数对波高分布和周期分布的影响。     

两参量的海面阻力系数模式的探讨

从风浪的能量平衡方程出发，引进若干风要素与波要素以及波要素之间的定性关系，经演算可导出海面阻力系数（Ｃｐ）或是风速（Ｕ）和波龄（β）或是Ｕ和波高（Ｈ）的函数，然后沿用最小二乘法，终将得出４组１２个回归方程。当β（或β）或Ｈ为某一给定值，惟有Ｕ为唯一参量时，所提各式均可简化为非线性方程：ＣＤ＝ａ＋ｂ，Ｕ＋ｃ．Ｕ＾２；式中ａ，ｂ和ｃ为三个经验系数，就所检验的例子而言，本文的结果与实际的符合前人的为好。     

A Reconstruction of Observed Profiles in the Sea East of Japan Using Vertical Coupled Temperature-Salinity EOF Modes

It is important to estimate hard-to-observe parameters in the ocean interior from easy-to-observe parameters. This study therefore demostrates a reconstruction of observed temperature and salinity profiles of the sea east of Japan (30°≈40°N, 140°≈150°E). The reconstruction was done by estimating suboptimal state from several values of the observed profiles and/or sea surface dynamic height (SDH) calculated from the profiles. The estimation used a variational method with vertical coupled temperature-salinity empirical orthogonal function (EOF) modes. Profiles of temperature and salinity in the subtropical region are effectively reconstructed from in situ temperature profile data, or sea surface temperature (SST) and SDH. For example, the analyzed temperature field from SST and SDH has an accuracy to within 1°C in the subtropical region. Salinity in the sea north of Kuroshio, however, is difficult to estimate because of its complex variability which is less correlated with temperature than in the subtropical region. Sea surface salinity is useful to estimate the subsurface structure. We also show the possibility that the estimation is improved by considering nonlinearity in the equation calculating SDH from temperature and salinity analysis values in order to examine the misfit between analysis and observation. Analysis using TOPEX/POSEIDON altimetry data instead of SDH was also performed. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

太平洋波高分布及变化规律研究

使用 Topex/ Poseidon卫星高度计 1 992年 1 0月～ 1 998年 1 2月连续 75个月 ,2 30个重复周期的有效波高资料对南北太平洋的有效波高进行了统计 ,分析了太平洋有效波高的多年平均、多年各月平均和多年各季平均的空间分布特征和时间变化规律。结果表明 ,太平洋波高分布具有明显季节变化的规律 ,与太平洋的风速分布特征具有良好的对应关系     

长江口泥沙絮凝静水沉降动力学模式的试验研究

细颗粒泥沙在咸水中的絮凝沉降是河流泥沙向海输送过程中在河口区发生的重要现象，是河口拦门沙形成与发育的主要原因之一。本文根据室内模拟试验研究，提出长江口泥沙絮凝静水沉降的二级动力学模式，通过该式求得不同泥沙含量和盐度情况下絮凝沉降的衰减系数，半衰期和平均沉降速率等动力学参数，定量地分析泥沙含量和盐度对泥沙絮凝沉降过程的影响。     

The Effect of Internal Fluid on the Response of Vortex-Induced Vibration of Marine Risers

Based on Iwan‘s wake oseillator model developed with the classical van der Pol equalion, the differential equation for the response of the vortex-induced vihration (VIV) of the riser considering the effect of the internal flowing fluid and the external marine environmental condition is derived. The effect of the intermal flowing fluid on the response of VIV of the riser is studied by means of the Finite Element Method. The results show that the effect of the internal fluid velocity on the VIV of the riser is strong when the natural frequency of the riser is close to the vortex shedding frequency. In addition, the increase of the top tension can decrease the sensitivity of the riser to the internal fluid velocity.     

黄茅海河口湾现代动力地貌体系和冲淤过程分析

1980—1993年对黄茅海河口湾进行沉积物采样和水流测定及水深测量。根据水动力和地形条件，冲淤分析及Mclaren模型研究河口湾的动力地貌体系、冲淤特征和现代沉积物运移。结果表明：（1）水下地形主要为下泄流或上溯流控制的“深槽－槽沟－浅滩－湾口”的动力地貌体系，反映了河口湾“东进西出”的水流格局；（2）整个河口湾以淤积为主，只有崖门深槽有较明显的优势冲刷特征，并随着崖门深槽向海推移和河口湾“东进西出”水动力作用，黄茅海落潮三角洲相应向西南进积；（3）应用Mclaren模型揭示了黄茅海河口湾现代沉积物运移规律，同样反映了河口湾具有“东进西出”的运移趋势。     

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.     

太平洋波高熵的分布变化规律研究

使用1992年IO月到1998年12月连续共75个月、230个重复周期的Topex／Poseidon卫星高度计有效波高资料，对南、北太平洋波高熵的空间分布特征和时间变化规律进行了研究。统计分析了太平洋波高熵的多年的空间分布特征和多年各月的时间变化规律。结果表明，太平洋波高熵呈现出中间低、南北高的马鞍形空间分布特征和明显季节变化的规律，与太平洋的平均有效波高和气候分布特征和变化规律相一致。给出了南北太平洋模拟波高熵的计算公式及计算稳定性检验。