Wave Defending Effects of V-Type Bottom-Mounted Breakwaters

An analytical method is developed for the study of the wave defending effects of the V-type bottom-mounted breakwater. The breakwater is assumed to be rigid, thin, impermeable and vertically located in water of constant depth. The fluid domain is divided into three sub-regions by an imaginary interface. The velocity potential in each region is expanded by eigenfunctions. By satisfying the corresponding boundary conditions and matching conditions in and between sub-regions, a set of hnear algebraic equations can be obtained to determine the unknown coetfficients for the eigenfunction expansions for each sub-region. The accuracy of the present model is verified by a comparison with existing results for the case of an isolated breakwater. Numerical results, in the form of contour maps of the relative wave amplitude around the breakwater, are presented for a range of wave and breakwater parameters. The results show that the V-type bottommounted breakwater is generally effective in defending against waves. In general, the wave height in the protected area is about 20-50 percent of the incident wave height.     

风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪变形

为确定适用黄河三角洲的波动理论，对黄河三角洲风暴期间及前后波浪连续观测资料进行了处理，将其投在komar波浪理论分区图中后，分析了风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪的波形特征，发现站位所在地适合的波浪理论主要为艾里波和斯托克斯波，风暴期间波浪变形，还存在少量超过极限波陡线的波浪，通过比较常见的极限波陡线，看出Miche曲线比较适合该研究区。     

悬对沙Mellor-Yamada海洋边界层模型计算结果的影响

为了分析海洋水体垂向水流紊动及紊动交换情况而采用了一维的海洋边界层模型(Mellor-Yamada)并利用数值实验的方法对悬沙、盐度、温度等数据进行分析。原模型未将悬沙考虑在内，本文试将它引入进去探讨由于它的存在对紊动混合特性的影响。2000年4月，Mellor将最初的模型引入了依赖于Richardson数的紊动动能耗散率。本文通过比较具有悬沙和不具有悬沙两种情况下的速度、温度和盐度垂向分布随时间的变化，分析讨论由于悬沙的存在所引发的密度层化对紊动混合作用的影响，并发现悬浮泥沙抑制了部分模拟时间的紊动混合作用。     

Change of multifractal thermal characteristics in the western Philippine sea upper layer during internal wave-soliton propagation

The upper layer (above 140 m depth) temperature in the western Philippine Sea near Taiwan was sampled using a coastal monitoring buoy (CMB) with 15 attached thermistors during July 28–August 7, 2005. The data were collected every 10 min at 1, 3, 5, 10, 15, and 20 m using the CMB sensors, and every 15 sec at 15 different depths between 25 m and 140 m. Internal waves and solitons were identified from the time-depth plot of the temperature field. Without the internal waves and solitons, the power spectra, structure functions, and singular measures (representing the intermittency) of temperature field satisfy the power law with multi-scale characteristics at all depths. The internal waves do not change the basic characteristics of the multifractal structure. However, the internal solitons change the power exponent of the power spectra drastically, especially in the low wave number domain; they also break down the power law of the structure function and increase the intermittency parameter. The physical mechanisms causing these different effects need to be explored further.     

Rain-Flow and Reverse Rain-Flow Counting Method for the Compilation of Fatigue Load Spectrum

The rain-flow counting method is widely used to compile the fatigue load spectrum. The second stage counting of the rain-flow method is a troublesome process. In order to overcome this drawback, the rain-flow and reverse rain-flow counting method is proposed in this paper. In this counting method, the rule for counting of the rain-flow method is modified, so that the sequence of load-time need not be adjusted. This is a valid and useful method to count cycles and compile the load spectrum and it can be widely used in ocean engineering.     

Parameter identification of a compliant nonlinear SDOF system in random ocean waves by reverse MISO method

The determination of the drag and inertia coefficients, which enter into the wave force model given by Morison's equation, is particularly uncertain and difficult when a linear spectral model is used for ocean waves, and the structure is compliant and has nonlinear dynamic response. In this paper, a nonlinear System Identification method, called Reverse Multiple Inputs–Single Output (R–MISO) is applied to identify the hydrodynamic coefficients as well as the nonlinear stiffness parameter for a compliant single-degree-of-freedom system. Four different types of problems have been identified for use in various situations and the R–MISO has been applied to all of them. One of the problems requires iterative solution strategy to identify the parameters. The method has been found to be efficient in predicting the parameters with reasonable accuracy and has the potential for use in the laboratory experiments on compliant nonlinear offshore systems.     

桩式离岸堤保滩促淤工程消浪效果试验研究

在上海奉贤南北港保滩促淤工程中，采用了一种新型结构型式－桩式离岸堤，并通过物理模式试验进行了桩式离岸堤消浪效果研究。针对离岸堤通常建于近岸水区破波带的特点，重点研究水深，堤高以及堤身结构对波浪衰减的影响，同时对桩式离岸堤堤后水域的波浪底流速 分析探讨。研究结果表明，桩式离岸堤不仅具有良好的消浪效果。而且可在较大范围内改变波态，即由引起水体剧烈紊动的破波转变为浅水推进波，从而有效地改善海滩上的动力条件，促进海滩免受侵蚀，是一种具有广泛应用前景和新型保滩促淤结构。     

Fluctuations of peak energy and peak frequency of local wavelet energy spectrum for wind waves

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Numerical Simulation of Wave Field near Submerged Bars by PLIC-VOF Model

Investigating the wave field near structures in coastal and offshore engineering is of increasing significance. In the present study, simulation is done of the wave profile and flow field for waves propagating over submerged bars, using PLIC-VOF （Pieeewise Linear Interface Construction） to trace the free surface of wave and finite difference method to solve vertical 2D Navier-Stokes （N-S） equations. A comparison of the numerical results for two kinds of submerged bars with the experimental ones shows that the PLIC-VOF model used in this study is effective and can compute the wave field precisely.