Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.     

单点高频地波雷达资料估算潮能耗散的方法

使用嵊泗站所布设的地波雷达观测获取的径向流数据,以及嵊泗、芦潮港、岱山3个潮汐观测站水位资料,采用两点近似投影方法反演流场全矢量流速,并用T-Tide程序计算调和常数,分别计算O1、K1、M2、S2各分潮流速场及迟角场,并计算各点上的潮能通量及潮能耗散,得到嵊泗岛以西杭州湾口区域潮能耗散同地形存在良好对应关系,充分证明了采用地波雷达观测数据进行潮能耗散计算这一方法的可行性,供相关工作者作进一步研究和讨论.     

渤黄东海潮能通量与潮能耗散

利用同化高度计资料和沿岸验潮站资料对潮汐数值模式进行同化,根据同化后的数值模式结果,对渤黄东海中的潮能通量和潮能耗散进行了研究.M2分潮从太平洋进入渤黄东海的潮能为122.499GW,占4个主要分潮进入总量的79%.黄海是半日分潮潮能耗散的主要海区.全日分潮则主要耗散在东海.全日分潮在遇到陆坡的阻挡以后有一部分潮能沿着冲绳海槽向西南传播,并有一部分潮能反射回太平洋,其中O1分潮通过C3断面反射回太平洋的潮能,约占其传入东海潮能的44%.     

变性绕极深层水入侵时南极普里兹湾湍流混合特征研究

基于中国第28、29和31次南极科学考察中的CTD数据,利用Thorpe尺度方法计算了普里兹湾及其附近海域湍动能耗散率,分析了其分布特征,并对当地的水团结构进行研究.结果表明,普里兹湾及其附近海域中,前两个航次观测中次表层湍动能耗散率强度在陆架坡折区域达到最大.在水团分布方面,在第28和29航次中均观测到了变性绕极深层...     

南海北部陆架区内波的演变与耗散机制

海洋是多尺度强迫-耗散系统,机械能主要在大尺度输入,在小尺度耗散。在大、中尺度运动的能量向小尺度湍流传递过程中,内波扮演着重要角色。内波的生成和破碎可打破海洋动力平衡,而在陆架区,内波（主要是内孤立波）的浅化演变与耗散则是驱动湍流混合的关键过程。通过长期的理论、观测与数值模拟研究,目前已认识到内波浅化过程中主要发生如下演变：波形调制、极性转变、裂变、破碎与耗散。相较于直接发生破碎,浅化演变过程中的裂变及其引发的剪切不稳定和对流不稳定是内孤立波在陆架区的主要耗散机制,显著调制陆架区的跃层混合。从能量串级的角度讲,内孤立波浅化裂变为动力不稳定的高频内波是潮能串级的重要通道。本文简要回顾南海北部陆架区内波的研究历史,并着重总结内波在陆架区演变与耗散机制的研究进展。     

绿色海堤的沉积地貌与生态系统动力学原理: 研究综述*

绿色海堤是传统结构工程与海岸生态系统共同组合而成的新型海堤, 用以应对未来海面上升、风暴加剧给低地海岸防护带来的挑战。需解决的问题主要有海岸生态系统消浪过程及生态系统在海堤体系中的配置方式。理论分析、现场观测、物模数模所获结果表明, 海岸生态系统确有显著的消浪功能: 1) 陆架泥区消浪, 其机制以再悬浮和浮泥运动为主, 底部摩擦为次; 2) 潮滩下部的粉砂细砂滩底部摩擦和推移质运动共同造成波能耗散, 而上部的泥滩则以再悬浮和悬沙输运为主; 3) 在盐沼、红树林、海草床等由植被构成的生态系统, 植物通过形态阻力、茎秆运动来阻滞水流、耗散波能, 其效能高于沉积物床面对波能的耗散; 4) 生物礁主要有珊瑚礁和牡蛎礁, 其消能作用主要通过床面摩擦和波浪破碎, 效能较高, 尤其是在风暴期间。生态系统如何成为海堤的有机组成部分, 尤其是侵蚀型海岸的生态位修复和绿色海堤整体设计, 还需进一步研究相关的科学问题: 与硬质工程结合的盐沼-牡蛎礁的适应性生物学; 未来环境变化条件下生态系统的稳定性; 绿色海堤生态系统空间配置及其与风暴事件的时间尺度匹配; 基于均衡剖面理论的海堤形态优化。     

海岸波浪多次破碎波能耗散模型

在坡度很缓(接近或小于1∶100)的海岸,波浪在向海岸传播的过程中,可能经历多次破碎,而在两次波浪破碎之间将伴随着波浪恢复(波浪恢复到不破碎状态)。在现有海岸波高计算模型中,波浪破碎是通过波能耗散来模拟的,但所采用的波能耗散模型都不能自动考虑波浪出现多次破碎的过程,特别精确模拟这一过程中出现的波浪恢复。本文提出了解决这一问题的新的波能耗散模型,模型的建立是通过在Dally模型中重新建立稳定波能、饱和波高水深比和波能耗散系数,并引入了波浪恢复的判断条件实现的。该模型的波能耗散在波浪恢复区的值很小故能描述波浪恢复区的波浪运动。与实验结果的对比表明,新模型可以适合缓坡情况波浪多次破碎的波高模拟,而且对不同坡度的平坡和沙坝海岸(1∶100～1∶10)的破碎波模拟都可以给出与实验结果符合的结果,并且可以自动识别多次波浪破碎的存在和波浪恢复的发生。     

Hydraulic performance of vertical walls with horizontal slots used as breakwater

The hydrodynamic performance of a vertical wall with permeable lower part (horizontal slots) was experimentally and theoretically studied under normal regular waves. The effect of different wave and structural parameters was investigated e.g. the wave length, the upper part draft, and the lower part porosity. Also, the theoretical model based on an Eigen Function Expansion Method and a Least Square Technique was developed. In order to examine the validity of the theoretical model, the theoretical results were compared with the present experimental results and with the results obtained from different previous studies. Comparison between experiments and predictions showed that the theoretical model provides a good estimate of the wave transmission, reflection, and energy dissipation coefficients when the friction factor f = 5.5. In general, the tested model gives transmission coefficients less than 0.5 and reflection coefficients larger than 0.5 when the relative wave length h/L is larger than 0.3, the relative upper part draft D/h larger than 0.36, and lower part porosity ε less than 0.5. Also, the tested model dissipates about 50% of the incident wave energy when the relative wave length h/L is in the range of 0.25 to 0.35.     

On the energy dissipation of jacket type offshore platforms with different pile–leg interactions

In recent years, considerable amount of effort has been made to design earthquake resistant offshore structures in seismic active areas. In order to achieve this objective, all components of a typical structure should function properly to dissipate seismically-induced energy within the members. Among components of an offshore installation, braces are of significant importance as they contribute substantially to total energy dissipation of the structure. Buckling in compression and yielding in tension assist the process of energy absorption. Nevertheless, the functionality of braces is dependent upon their joints where joint-cans are included to avoid any brittle fracture and unpredicted failure mechanisms.In this paper, special attention is being paid to energy dissipation of jacket type offshore platforms with two different pile–leg interactions. A case study representing an offshore platform is studied both analytically and experimentally. Analytical models are validated step by step based on available experimental tests and observations on individual members. Several parameters such as cyclic behavior, maximum bearing load and most importantly energy dissipation of two different 2D frames are investigated. Results provide promising insights into design and fabrication of fixed platforms with different pile–leg interactions.     

地幔滞弹性对Chandler摆动的影响

基于简正模扰动理论和勒夫数扰动方法,采用Zschau 的地幔流变模型,在假设Chandler摆动的能量全部耗散于地幔滞弹性摩擦的条件下,导出Chandler 摆动Q(Q_w)的理论值.还考虑了滞弹地球的平衡极潮对摆动的影响,所得结果与绝大部分天文实测值非常一致.分析表明.平衡部分的影响大,地幔滞弹性很可能是Chandler 摆动最主要的能量耗散源,Q_w 的理论值约为71.还推算了吸收带模型参数α,研究了该模型的适用性,并讨论了Q_w 与地幔Q(Q_m)的关系.