Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique

A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.     

Short-term shoreline changes due to cross-shore structures: a one-line numerical model

The proposed numerical model simulates the short-term temporal changes in shoreline position due to a structure interrupting the longshore sediment flux. The impacts of both the groin-type construction and underwater trench of arbitrary orientation relative to the shore are discussed. In order to estimate the sediment mass trapped by the structure, a submodel of the longshore sediment transport induced by a random wave field is developed. The contribution of the surface roller in momentum balance as well as in sediment suspension is included. The shoreline changes are computed from the equation deduced from the mass conservation. The perturbations in the longshore sediment discharge caused by a structure are assumed to concentrate within some boundary area of which the spatial scale is proportional to the structure's length until the latter is exceeded by the width of the sediment flux. It is shown in particular that the total effect of a long trench (channel) and a pier in its nearshore part results in general shoreline recession except for the vicinity of a pier. The model is tested against the laboratory data of Baidei et al. (1994) and applied to the Baidara Bay coast (Kara Sea) where a pipeline would be designed.     

Non-Simultaneous Failure of Ice in Front of Multi-Leg Structures

Because the multi-leg jacket structure is the major type of offshore structures in the Bohai Sea, the study of non-si-multaneous failure of i鏴 on multi-leg structures is important. However, the non-simultaneous failure has not been consid-ered in engineering design until now, obviously resulting in costly design and notable waste. To resolve this problem, this paper, by means of analysis of experimental data, calculates the coefficient of the non-simultaneous failure for the double-pile structure, the square four-leg structure, the single-line multi-pile structure, and the conical structure, respectively, and provides some reference criteria for engineering design.     

海面对风应力的非定常响应

针对常垂直湍流系数和变垂直湍流系数两种情况，给出了开阔静止海面对风应力的非定常响应的解析表达式，并讨论了水深，风应力强弱对响应过程的影响，尽管没有考虑风场的非定常性，但本文的结果对理解海洋对风应力的非定常响应过程具有一定的帮助，对分析海面停风后的消衰过程也具有实际意义。通过与实测资料比较，认为垂直湍流系数模式要比常垂直湍流系数模式更为合理。     

Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.     

Wave Reflection Caused by Wave Overtopping and Sloping Top of Spructure

In this paper, the theoretical analysis and experimental studies are employed to investigate the reflection characteris-tics of partial standing waves caused by wave overtopping and sloping top of structures. Based on the principle of conser-vation of wave energy flux, the third-order Stokes wave theory is used to formulate the reflection coefficient at wave overtopping; the calculation results are regressed into an applied expression. A series of experiments of wave reflection for a vertical-wall structure with chamfered and overhanging upper sections are carried out to investigate the influence of top slope on wave reflection. The regularity of variation of wave reflection in this case is analysed based on the experimental results.     

台湾海峡1997年8月至1999年8月份海水光学衰减系数的分布特征

利用1997－1999年间8月份台湾海峡的实测资料，分析了海水光学衰减系数的垂直分布类型、水平分布特征。结果表明，台湾海峡海水光学衰减系数的垂直分布类型主要分为5种，大部分随深度而递增；光学衰减系数等值线基本与岸线平行，水平梯度自北向南、自近岸向外海递减，近岸等值线密集，而外海稀疏；影响台湾海峡光学衰减系数的主要因素是县浮物质（主要含浮游生物）和海流运动。     

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter Derived Wind Speed and Wave Parameters with Ocean Buoy Data in the North Indian Ocean

Results of comparison exercises carried out between the state-of-the-art TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter-derived ocean surface wind speed and ocean wave parameters (significant wave height and wave period) and those measured by a set of ocean data buoys in the North Indian Ocean are presented in this article. Altimeter-derived significant wave height values exhibited rms deviation as small as ±0.3 m, and surface wind speed of ±1.6 m/s. These results are found consistent with those found for the Pacific Ocean. For estimation of ocean wave period, the spectral moments-based semiempirical approach, earlier applied on GEOSAT data, was extended to TOPEX/POSEIDON. For this purpose, distributions of first four years of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data and climatology over the North Indian Ocean were analyzed and a new set of coefficients generated for estimation of wave period. It is shown that wave periods thus estimated from TOPEX/POSEIDON data (for the subsequent two years), when compared with independent data set of ocean data buoys deployed in the North Indian Ocean, exhibit improved accuracy (rms ~ ±1.4 nos) over those determined earlier with GEOSAT data.     

Hilbert Transferin Applied to Separation of Waves

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained.     

钝顶螺旋藻C-藻蓝蛋白和多管藻R-藻红蛋白的分离纯化及摩尔消光系数的测定

１９９３年１１月～１９９４年１月用简单的羟基磷灰石柱层析法从多管藻中分 离纯化了Ｒ－藻红蛋白和从钝顶螺旋藻中纯化了Ｃ－藻蓝蛋白，它们的纯度（指可见 光部分的最大吸收与 ２８０ｎｍ处吸收值之比）可分别达到 ６（Ｒ－藻红蛋白）和 ５． ５（Ｃ－ 藻蓝蛋白）。由于不同藻种的同种藻胆蛋白的摩尔消光系数不同，所以应用凯氏定 氮法并结合可见光的吸收值测定了上述两种藻胆蛋白的摩尔消光系数，钝顶螺旋 藻Ｃ－藻蓝蛋白为１．８５３ × １０６ｍｏｌ－１ｃｍ－１（６２０ｎｍ），多管藻Ｒ－藻红蛋白为１．７９６ × １０６ｍｏｌ－１ｃｍ－１（４９８ｎｍ），为藻胆蛋白的浓度测定提供了方便。