A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.     

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.     

Effect of free surface and strut on fins attached to a strut

An extensive experimental and computational investigation of the combined and separate effects of free surface and body on the lift characteristics of a pair of fins attached to a strut and fin alone is conducted. The results reveal that the free-surface effect becomes significant when the depth of submergence to chord ratio (H/c) is less than three. The effect of the strut is also realized for shallower depth of submergence of the fins through free-surface deformation leading to a significant change in the incidence angle of the flow to the fins. The numerical results based on the Higher Order Boundary Element Method with the linearized free-surface condition show good agreement with the experimental results for fin (foil) alone even at shallow submergence, but some discrepancies appear for the fin attached to the strut at higher speeds mostly due to the neglect of the nonlinear free-surface effect.     

Calculation of transverse hydrodynamic coefficients using computational fluid dynamic approach

Computational Fluid Dynamic (CFD) based on Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equation is used for determining the transverse hydrodynamic damping force and moment coefficients that are needed in the maneuverability study of marine vehicles. Computations are performed for two geometrical shapes representing typical AUVs presently in use. Results are compared with available data on similar geometries and from some of the available semi-empirical relations. It is found that the CFD predictions compares reasonable well with these results. In particular, the CFD predictions of forces and moments are found to be nonlinear with respect to the transverse velocity, and therefore both linear and nonlinear coefficients can be derived. A discussion on the sources of the component forces reveal that the total force and moment variations should in fact be nonlinear.     

比较原理在多有理数时滞区间系数离散系统的应用

应用多组有理数时滞离散系统的比较原理和频域法,将多组有理数时滞区间系数离散系统化为多组有理数时滞定常离散系统,以判定其时滞无关稳定性,并举例说明了新定理的有效性和实用性。     

Distribution of nonlinear wave crests

The distribution of nonlinear wave crests is examined on the basis of a theoretical probability density previously given elsewhere (J. Eng. Mech. 120 (1994) 1009). Certain errors contained in the original theoretical density are corrected, and the corresponding exceedance distribution is derived. The resulting theoretical forms of the probability density and exceedance distribution are then slightly simplified and compared with nonlinear wave data gathered under hurricane conditions. The results indicate that the proposed theoretical forms describe the observed distributions of large wave crests better than the Rayleigh law. However, the quantitative accuracy of the predictions is somewhat poor, as is typical of approximate theories based on Gram–Charlier-type expansions.     

Wave runup on a concentric twin perforated circular cylinder

The regular wave interaction with a twin concentric porous circular cylinder system consisting of an inner impermeable cylinder and an outer perforated cylinder was studied through physical model and numerical model studies. The experiments were carried out on the twin concentric cylinder model in a wave flume to study the wave runup and rundown at the leading and trailing edges of the perforated cylinder. It was found that the maximum wave runup on the perforated cylinder is almost same as the incident wave height. The experimental results were used to develop the predictive formulae for the wave runup and rundown on the perforated cylinder, which can be easily used for design applications. The wave runup profiles around the perforated cylinder for different values of ka and porosities were studied numerically using Green's Identity Method. The results of the numerical study are presented and compared with the experimental measurements.     

A novel technique in analyzing non-linear wave-wave interaction

During wave growth non-linear wave–wave interactions cause transfer of some wave energy from lower to higher wave periods as the spectrum grows. Wavelet bicoherence, which is a new technique in the analysis of wind–wave and wave–wave interactions, is used to analyze non-linear wave–wave interactions. A selected record of wind wave that contains the maximum wave height observed during 6 h of wave generation is divided into five segments and wavelet bicoherence is computed for the whole record, and for all divided segments. The study shows that the non-linear wave–wave interaction occurs at different bicoherence levels and these levels are different from one segment to another due to the non-stationarity feature of the examined data set.     

双层局部开孔板沉箱对波浪反射的理论研究

提出了一种用于研究由双层开孔板和一个不透水后板的开孔结构对斜向波反射率的理论分析方法。整个流域被分成三个子域，在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法以得到该域内包含未知展开系数的势函数的表达式，在速度势的展开中，考虑了非传播模态波浪的影响。通过匹配开孔板处的边界条件可以求解待定的展开系数，继而求解双层开孔板防波堤结构对斜向波的反射率。数值计算结果与试验结果进行了比较，符合较好。并进一步讨论了几个重要因素对反射系数的影响。     

A polar method for obtaining wave resonating quadruplets in finite depths

A polar method for obtaining wave resonating quadruplets {K₁, K₂, K₃, K₄} in the computation of nonlinear wave–wave interaction source term of the wave model is presented with results for both deep and finite water depths. The method first determines the end radial points of the locus equation for K₂, for each set of input wave vectors (K₁, K₃) on the symmetry. The locus of K₂ (and hence K₄) is then traced in the anti-clockwise direction starting with the maximum radial point on the line of symmetry. It is shown that when k₃>k₁, the number of points on the locus varies when the orientations of the input wave vectors are changed and reduces when the difference in the magnitude of the input wave vectors is increased. A significant advantage in this method is that the angular increment on the locus for K₂ can be kept constant.