Modeling of coupled tide–wave–surge process in the Yellow Sea

A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been developed in this study in order to investigate the effect of the interactions among tides, storm surges, and wind waves. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress, which is generated by interactions between wind and wave, is calculated by using the WAM model directly based on an analytical approximation of the results using the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes in bottom friction are created by the interactions between waves and currents and calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. In consequence, the combined wave–current-induced bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient were increased in the shallow waters during the strong storm conditions.     

Dynamic analysis of a vertical plate exposed to breaking wave impact

From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of p_max/γH₀≤18.     

Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.     

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.     

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

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大鹏湾夜光藻种群的季节变化和分布特征

于１９９０年３月－１９９２年６月对中国南海大鹏湾盐田附近海域的夜光藻种群动态及时空分布进行了综合调查，结果表明，夜光藻种群的出现期间一般为每年的１－６月，最早是１９９１年的１２月，娄量高峰期为３－５月，种群密度的波动极为显著；调查期间共发生８次赤潮，且都发生在３月初至５月初；大鹏湾夜光藻赤潮的发生特点是，赤潮的发生和消失突然，持续时间短，一般不超过３ｄ。     

滦河三角洲砂坝-潟湖海岸环境的遥感分析与区域开发潜力的评价

本文就不同类型淀湖在不同时相条件下,对卫星遥感谱段响应的分析结果,将研究区的信息进行了提取与复合.继之,解译了封闭与半封闭漏湖的发育进程和表观特征,并就七个潟湖区段环境乃至开发前景作了详细的阐述.     

河口区治江围涂对杭州湾水动力及海床影响分析

自二十世纪六十年代起，钱塘江河口进行了大规模治江围涂，人类活动对杭州湾水域的影响越来越为人们关注。基于实测资料的分析和潮汐水流数学模型计算，探讨了钱塘江河口区围涂对杭州湾水域潮汐水流和海床的影响。研究成果可为钱塘江河口和杭州湾的进一步开发治理和环境保护提供科学依据。     

Nonlinear coupled dynamic response of offshore Spar platforms under regular sea waves

Many innovative floating offshore structures have been proposed for cost effectiveness of oil and gas exploration and production in water depths exceeding one thousand meters in recent years. One such type of platform is the offshore floating Spar platform. The Spar platform is modelled as a rigid body with six degrees-of-freedom, connected to the sea floor by multi-component catenary mooring lines, which are attached to the Spar platform at the fairleads. The response dependent stiffness matrix consists of two parts (a) the hydrostatics provide restoring force in heave, roll and pitch, (b) the mooring lines provide the restoring force which are represented here by nonlinear horizontal springs. A unidirectional regular wave model is used for computing the incident wave kinematics by Airy’s wave theory and force by Morison’s equation. The response analysis is performed in time domain to solve the dynamic behavior of the moored Spar platform as an integrated system using the iterative incremental Newmark’s Beta approach. Numerical studies are conducted for sea state conditions with and without coupling of degrees-of-freedom.     

赤潮生物种类特征光谱获取技术

较为系统地研究了赤潮生物水体反射率曲线获取方法。通过对 2类反射率反演方法得出的反射率曲线与实际反射率曲线进行比较 ,得出在不具备大气环境参数的情况下 ,经验线性法的反演结果与实际反射率曲线最接近的结论 ,并进一步对正常海水和赤潮生物水体的光谱特性进行分析 ,提取出赤潮生物水体的特征光谱。这是进行赤潮监测和识别的重要前提