南沙海区风浪分析与计算

根据南沙海区风浪实测资料,阐述了南沙海区波高的分布规律。应用相关分析法,通过多元回归计算,得出波要素与风速、风时之间的关系。对波高、波周期的相互关系作了统计分析并利用永署礁海洋观测站1990年1～7月的实测资料对计算结果作了验证。结果表明,南沙海区波高、波周期的计算值与实测值基本吻合。     

Wavelet transform based coherence analysis of freak wave and its impact

The present paper presents the results of a wavelet transform-based coherence analysis of freak wave and its impact. Wavelet transform has been used as a tool in analyzing signals in the time domain as well as in the frequency domain. The analysis was applied to laboratory-generated freak waves. The wavelet transform of the time history of the freak wave and its impact force revealed that a wide range of frequency components were contained in them. The coherence analysis was conducted on the wave and its impact force time histories. The coherence analysis revealed that some high-frequency components were highly correlated with the impact forces. The present study demonstrates that the wavelet transform can be an alternative tool in the analysis of strongly nonlinear freak wave and its impact.     

Wave interaction with twin plate wave barrier

The wave transmission and reflection characteristics and wave induced pressures on single surface plate and twin plate barriers were investigated experimentally for a wide range of wave heights and periods in regular and random waves. Seven different spacing between the plates were tested. It is found in general, hydrodynamically the twin plate is better than the single surface plate to reduce the wave transmission and increase the wave reflection. It is found that the transmission coefficient of twin plate reduced from 0.8 to 0.3 when the relative plate width is increased from 0.18 to 0.84. Transmission coefficient of twin plate barrier shows oscillating behavior, when relative plate width is increased due to blocking and pumping effect. The reflection coefficient increased from 0.25 to 0.65, when the relative width of the plate is increased from 0.18 to 0.84. The increase in spacing between the plates was also found to increase the reflection coefficient. The transmission coefficient, K_t for 98% probability of non-exceedence was found to be minimum and is about 0.60 when the relative spacing between the plate is about 0.12, compared to K_t=0.76 for single surface plate. The reflection coefficient for 98% probability of non-exceedence was found to exceed 0.66 for single surface plate, whereas it is 0.73 for twin plate with relative spacing of about 0.40. From the investigation with wide range of input parameters, it is found that the twin plate barrier needs to be designed for highest 98% pressure ratio of 2.0, which is equal to the static pressure induced by the design incident wave height.     

Research on the Propagation Acting of the Equatorial Planetary Waves on the Western Equatorial Pacific Warm Pool Heat

1 IntroductionIn the Equatorial Pacific, due to the difference between the atmospheric circulation and air-sea interaction, the near-surface seawater heat structure in the eastern and western Pacific presents two ℃obviously different characteristics: warm pool ( > 28 ) in the western equatorial Pacific and cold ℃tongue ( < 24 ) in the eastern equatorial Pacific. The water bodies of these two heat structures would give rise to change in spatial distribution under the action of the equato…     

Neural networks for wave forecasting

The physical process of generation of waves by wind is extremely complex, uncertain and not yet fully understood. Despite a variety of deterministic models presented to predict the heights and periods of waves from the characteristics of the generating wind, a large scope still exists to improve on the existing models or to provide alternatives to them. This paper explores the possibility of employing the relatively recent technique of neural networks for this purpose. A simple 3-layered feed forward type of network is developed to obtain the output of significant wave heights and average wave periods from the input of generating wind speeds. The network is trained with different algorithms and using three sets of data. The results show that an appropriately trained network could provide satisfactory results in open wider areas, in deep water and also when the sampling and prediction interval is large, such as a week. A proper choice of training patterns is found to be crucial in achieving adequate training.     

波群对垂直桩柱的作用力

在波浪槽中进行了具有不同群因子和连长的随机波群对三种直径的桩柱作用力的实验研究,指出波浪峰力的比值不随波群的连长变化,而随波群因子的增加而增大。由于桩柱是一非线性系统,作用力的群团子大于波浪的群因子,其连长小于波浪的连长。波浪峰力的比值不仅随KC数的增加而增大,还随波群因子GF的增加而增大。     

近海遥测波浪仪的数据采集与处理

为了解决HBF1-1型近海遥测波浪仪的原始数据保留方式与数据处理能力,本文提出了以IBM/PC微机代替原系统单板机的方法,并设计了“ADL”与“SPE”数据采集与处理程序,经与ENDECO 956浮标观测资料的比较以及1a的海上观测应用,证明该方法所获得的资料是可靠的。     

Wave grouping characteristics in nearshore Great Lakes II

This is a sequel with extensive new data to Liu's (Liu, 2000a. Wave grouping characteristics in nearshore Great Lakes. Ocean Engineering 27, 1221–1230) exploratory study on wave grouping characteristics in the nearshore Great Lakes. We analyze recent GLERL time-series measurements recorded by pressure sensors deployed at four nearshore stations in southern Lake Michigan during 1998–1999. With the advantage of continued application of time-frequency wavelet spectrum analysis, the extensive new measurements substantially confirmed the effectiveness of the empirical characterization of wave grouping parameters defined in Liu. We show that a wave group is really the basic element for a detailed understanding of wave processes, in contrast to the conventional approach of using a frequency spectrum as the basic element, which depends on the recording length and requires the data to be stationary. While studying wave time-series alone does not really alleviate the vast intricacies of the wind wave processes, the embodiment of wave grouping as the predominant feature in the wind wave processes clearly represents a significant step forward toward sound conceptual advancement.     

波群与单频率波的波向线的比较

本文根据普遍几何群速的概念和Fermat原理导出的波群的波向线方程,数值计算在理想底形海域中波群与单频率波的波向线,并加以比较,指出两者的异同。同时还检验了前人的一些结论。     

A parabolic equation extended to account for rapidly varying topography

In this paper, following the procedure outlined by Li (1994. An evolution equation for water waves. Coastal Engineering, 23, 227-242) and Hsu and Wen (2000. A study of using parabolic model to describe wave breaking and wide-angle wave incidence. Journal of the Chinese Institute of Engineers, 23(4), 515–527) and Hsu and Wen (2000) the extended refraction–diffraction equation is recasted into a time-dependent parabolic equation. This model, which includes higher-order bottom effect terms, is extended to account for a rapidly varying topography and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone. The importance of the higher-order bottom effect terms is examined in terms of the relative water depth. The present model was tested for wave reflection in a number of different environments, namely from a plane slope with different inclinations, from a patch of periodic ripples. The model was also tested for wave height distribution around a circular shoal and wave breaking on a barred beach. The comparison of predictions with other numerical models and experimental data show that the validity of the present model for describing wave propagation over a rapidly varying seabed is satisfactory.