Deterministic non-linear wave prediction using probe data

The accurate prediction of non-linear sea states represents a great challenge, with a number of applications in oceanography, marine engineering, security of people and marine transportation, etc. In this paper, we report on the development of two efficient deterministic prediction models for 2D irregular wave-fields. These models are based on the exploitation of wave elevation time series given by one or more probes and on the use of two different numerical models for the wave-fields simulation. Two effective data assimilation processes are developed to improve the wave-field estimates obtained from the study of one or several probe signals, so that we obtain proper initial conditions for the forecast. The assimilation schemes have been validated on the reconstruction of model-generated observations and accurate predictions of the corresponding synthetic wave-fields evolution have been obtained.     

Tsunami-like solitary waves impinging and overtopping an impermeable seawall: Experiment and RANS modeling

This study investigates tsunami-like solitary waves impinging and overtopping an impermeable trapezoidal seawall on a 1:20 sloping beach. New laboratory experiments are performed for describing three typical cases: a turbulent bore rushes inland and subsequently impacts and overtops the seawall (Type 1); a wave directly collapses on the seawall and then generates overtopping flow (Type 2); and, a wave straightforwardly overtops the seawall crown and collapses behind the seawall (Type 3). A two-dimensional volume of fluid (VOF) type model called the COBRAS (COrnell BReaking And Structure) model, which is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations and the k–ε turbulence closure solver, is validated by experimental data and then applied to investigate wave dynamics for which laboratory data are unavailable. Additionally, a set of numerical experiments is conducted to examine the dynamic wave acting force due to waves impacting the seawall. Effects of wave nonlinearity and freeboard are elucidated. Special attention is given to a distinct vortex evolutionary behavior behind the seawall, in which the dynamic properties of entrapped air-bubbles are briefly addressed experimentally and numerically.     

The form of the asymptotic depth-limited wind-wave spectrum: Part III — Directional spreading

The directional spreading of both the wavenumber and frequency spectra of finite-depth wind generated waves at the asymptotic depth limit are examined. The analysis uses the Wavelet Directional Method, removing the need to assume a form for the dispersion relationship. The paper shows that both the wavenumber and frequency forms are narrowest at the spectral peak and broaden at wavenumbers (frequencies) both above and below the peak. The directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is bi-modal above the spectral peak. In contrast, the frequency spectrum is uni-modal. This difference is shown to be the result of energy in the wind direction being displaced from the linear dispersion shell. A full parametric relationship for the directional spreading of the wavenumber spectrum is developed. The analysis clearly shows that typical dispersion relationships are questionable at high frequencies and that such effects can be significant. This result supports greater attention being focussed on the routine recording of wavenumber spectra, rather than frequency spectra.     

Some statistical characteristics of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula

The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution.     

Breaking wave loads at vertical seawalls and breakwaters

This paper presents recent advances in knowledge on wave loads, based on experimental work carried out in the CIEM/LIM large flume at Barcelona within the framework of the VOWS (Violent Overtopping by Waves at Seawalls) project. Both quasi-static and impact wave forces from the new data set have been compared with predictions by empirical and analytical methods. The scatter in impact forces has been found to be large over the whole range of measurements, with no existing method giving especially good predictions. Based on general considerations, a simple and intuitive set of prediction formulae has been introduced for quasi-static and impact forces, and overturning moments, giving good agreement with the new measurements. New prediction formulae have been compared with previous measurements from physical model tests at small and large scale, giving satisfactory results over a relatively wide range of test conditions. The time variation of wave impacts is discussed, together with pressure distribution up the wall, which shows that within experimental limitations the measured pressures are within existing limits of previous study.     

Modelling the effect of wave overtopping on nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around shore-parallel breakwaters

Wave overtopping nearshore coastal structures, such as shore-parallel breakwaters, can significantly alter the current circulation and sediment transport patterns around the structures, which in turn affects the formation of tombolos and salients in the nearshore area. This paper describes the implementation of a wave overtopping module into an existing depth-averaged coastal morphological mode: COAST2D and model applications to investigate the effect of wave overtopping on the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around a group of shore-parallel breakwaters. The hydrodynamic aspects of the model were validated against a series of laboratory conditions. The model was then applied to a study site at Sea Palling, Norfolk, UK, where 9 shore-parallel segmented breakwaters including 4 surface-piercing and 5 low-crested breakwaters are present, for the storm conditions in Nov 2006. The model results were compared with laboratory data and field measurements, showing a good agreement on both hydrodynamics and morphological changes. Further analysis of wave overtopping effect on the nearshore hydrodynamics and morphodynamics reveals that wave overtopping has significant impacts on the nearshore circulation, sediment transport and the resulting morphological changes within such a complex breakwater scheme under the storm and macro-tide conditions. The results indicate the importance of including the wave overtopping in modelling nearshore morphodynamics with the presence of coastal structures.     

Scaling wave impact pressures on vertical walls

It is widely recognized that the use of Froude similarity for scaling up wave impact pressures recorded during physical model tests may lead to over-estimation of impact maxima. Based on reviewing historical work dating back to the 30s and further developments in the 60s and 80s, a general method is presented that is suitable for scaling up impact pressures and rise times measured during small scale physical model tests. The method accounts for the effect of air leakage and is applicable to most wave impact loads. The model is applied to scale wave impact pressures on vertical walls and similar structures, and consistent correction factors for the Froude scaling law are derived.     

塔里木盆地东北缘一次强对流天气过程中的阵风锋特征研究

利用地面自动站逐小时观测、多普勒天气雷达及WRF模式高分辨率数值模拟,分析2016年7月塔里木盆地东北缘一次强对流天气过程中的阵风锋特征。结果表明,阵风锋前沿较强的辐合抬升运动不断触发多个对流单体,其中大部分单体与其后方的对流系统合并且进一步发展,使得强对流天气不断发展和维持。在对流系统快速发展阶段,阵风锋前沿水平风的垂直切变造成湿位涡的斜压分量显著增强,从而增强局地的条件对称不稳定,为对流系统的发展和维持提供了重要的不稳定能量。不稳定能量释放需要的锋生强迫作用主要是由阵风锋前方的辐合辐散项和倾斜项决定,而阵风锋前沿附近的水平形变项及其上方的非绝热加热项提供相对较弱的贡献。     

不同检测方法对混凝土波速的影响研究

为建立超声波法和低应变反射波法检测所得混凝土基桩波速的相互转换关系,本文给出了标准线性固体模型下粘弹性介质的三维和一维纵波速度之比及其实用简化公式,并且通过实验得出,混凝土构件的超声波速与1.054倍低应变动测波速之比处于1.03~1.12,具体数值会随着混凝土龄期、弹性模量和强度等级的增加而有所减小。     

中亚造山带西段俯冲起始时限及机制探讨

中亚造山带是世界上最大的显生宙增生型造山带,是研究增生造山过程和大陆地壳生长的绝佳场所,其形成记录了新元古代—早中生代古亚洲洋发展演化历程,主要由一系列微陆块、岛弧、海山/大洋高原、增生杂岩及蛇绿混杂岩构成.中亚造山带西段蛇绿混杂岩物质组成基本一致,除了典型的蛇绿岩组分外,大多发育典型的海山岩石组合,即枕状玄武岩、火山...