Prototype measurements and small-scale model tests of wave overtopping at shallow rubble-mound breakwaters: the Ostia-Rome yacht harbour case

The paper presents the comparison between the results of small-scale model tests and prototype measurements of wave overtopping at a rubble-mound breakwater. The specific structure investigated is the west breakwater of the yacht harbour of Rome at Ostia (Italy) and is characterized by a gentle seaward slope (1/4) and by a long, shallow foreshore. The laboratory tests firstly aimed at carefully reproducing two measured storms in which overtopping occurred and was measured. The tests have been carried out in two independent laboratories, in a wave flume and in a wave basin, hence using a two-dimensional (2-D) and a three-dimensional (3-D) setup. In the 2-D laboratory tests no overtopping occurred during the storm reproductions; in the 3-D case discharges five to ten times smaller than those observed in prototype have been measured. This indicates the existence of model and scale effects. These effects have been discussed on the basis of the results of several parametric tests, which have been carried out in both laboratories, in addition to the storm reproductions, varying wave and water level characteristics. Final comparison of all the performed tests with 86 prototype measurements still suggests the existence of scale and model effects that induce strong underestimation of overtopping discharge at small scale. The scale reproduction of wave breaking on the foreshore, together with the 3-D features of the prototype conditions and the absence of wind stress in the laboratory measurements, have been individuated as the main sources of scale and model effects. The paper also provides a comparison between the data and a largely used formula for wave overtopping discharges in the presence of structures similar to the one at hand. The suitable value of a roughness factor that appears in that formula is investigated and good agreement is found with other recent researches on rubble-mound breakwaters.     

Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress

A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient a_r introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves.     

白浪覆盖率模式中参量的研究

在波面位移为正态过程的假定下,推导出一种以平均周期和风速为参量的白浪覆盖率公式W=1-Φ[5.11094[-T/U10]0.7576].依据摩擦风速和U10的表达式,进一步推导出白浪覆盖率依赖于摩擦风速的形式W=1-Φ[0.5227[-T/U]0.7576]].考虑到在实际应用中,经常需要用波龄描述波浪的状态,将白浪覆盖率表示成一种形式简单的波龄的函数W=1-Φ(3.6496ξ0.7576),与Monahan等的海上测量数据符合良好.     

高度计波高数据同化对印度洋海域海浪模式预报影响研究

为提高海浪模式预报的精度,改善初始场是途径之一。研制了基于最优插值(OI)方法的海浪数据同化并行程序模块,并将其植入第三代海浪模式WAVEWATCH IIITM,建立了印度洋海域海浪同化预报方法,使用卫星高度计波高数据进行了同化预报试验。OI模块的并行设计使得植入同化模块的海浪模式仍能以并行方式运行。文中5°S以北印度洋海域为目标区域,嵌套在WAVE-WATCH IIITM的全球网格中,使得目标区域开边界条件得到较好解决。同化数据使用Jason-2高度计测量有效波高(SWH)沿轨数据。海浪同化预报模式由大气模式WRF(Weather Research andForecasting)输出的1小时一次的海面10 m风场驱动。将同化的模式结果(SWH)、无同化的模式结果(SWH)分别与高度计沿轨数据(SWH)进行比较,表明同化改善模式预报初始场的效果是明显的。以同化初始场出发进行海浪预报试验,结果表明,高度计波高数据同化在一定程度上可改进海浪短期预报的精度。     

泉州湾海域海浪谱

本文根据福建泉州湾大量实测海浪谱资料,分析了该海域海浪内部结构特征,比较和检验了国内外常用的Ｐ－Ｍ谱、Ｊｏｎｓｗａｐ谱、规范谱及国内沿岸海区的一些经验谱,结果取了与本海区实测海浪个例谱结构接近程度最好的Ｊｏｎｓｗａｐ谱拟合泉州湾海浪谱模式。     

Numerical simulation of random wave slamming on structures in the splash zone

The numerical investigation of random wave slamming on superstructures of marine structures in the splash zone is presented in this paper. The impact pressures on the underside of the structure are computed based on the improved volume of fluid method (VOF). The governing equations are Reynolds time-averaged equations and the two equation k– model. The third order upwind difference scheme is applied to the convection term to reduce the effect of numerical viscosity. The numerical wave flume with random wave-maker suitable for VOF is established. Appropriate moving contact-line boundary conditions are introduced to the model wave in contact with and separated from the underside of structure. Parametric studies have been carried out for different incident waves, structure dimensions and structure clearance. The numerical results are verified by the experimental results.     

沟谷型沙漠泥流堆积体起动过程中的孔压变化特性

以黄河上游宁蒙段典型风水复合侵蚀流域为研究区域,重点针对堆积体堵塞沟道极端条件下的沟谷型沙漠泥流,从堆积体起动成灾的环节入手,开展直槽概化模型试验,并采用基于有效应力原理的流固耦合模型,概化模拟上游暴雨洪水入渗条件下堆积体内孔隙水压力变化特性及其起动过程,从微观角度揭示其成灾机理。结果表明：堆积体起动过程中孔隙水压力与时间呈指数为0.5的幂函数关系;流固耦合作用下堆积体内经历了应力场→体积应变→孔隙率→孔隙水压力→渗流场→塑性应变→屈服破坏的复杂非线性变化过程。     

The sheltering effect of the Balearic Islands in the hindcast wave field

The sheltering effect of the Balearic Islands in the hindcast wave field was studied for typical Mediterranean wave situations of Llevant, Tramuntana and Mestral and for mild conditions such as the Garbí and Ponent winds. For this purpose, a third generation wave model was applied to the Mediterranean Sea and different patterns of the sheltered areas were found for the various representative situations depending on the wind variability and on the magnitude of the wind speed. From the analysis it was concluded that the sheltered zones created during storms generally persist for short periods of time of the order of 6 h, possibly reaching a maximum of 12 h. In contrast with earlier results obtained for swell dominated ocean areas, it was observed that in this area, due to the short fetches the sea states are mainly local wind seas and thus the wave field behind the islands depends on the local wind.     

Deterministic non-linear wave prediction using probe data

The accurate prediction of non-linear sea states represents a great challenge, with a number of applications in oceanography, marine engineering, security of people and marine transportation, etc. In this paper, we report on the development of two efficient deterministic prediction models for 2D irregular wave-fields. These models are based on the exploitation of wave elevation time series given by one or more probes and on the use of two different numerical models for the wave-fields simulation. Two effective data assimilation processes are developed to improve the wave-field estimates obtained from the study of one or several probe signals, so that we obtain proper initial conditions for the forecast. The assimilation schemes have been validated on the reconstruction of model-generated observations and accurate predictions of the corresponding synthetic wave-fields evolution have been obtained.