黄河口“烂泥”波浪特性的分析

根据１９９１年１１月２３－２４日现场波浪测量资料，分析了黄河口“烂泥”的消波效应。结果表明，波浪传至“烂泥”后波高和周期均有明显减小，波浪频谱也有较大的变化，“烂泥”是一个天然的“避风港”。     

Bed changes at toe of inclined seawalls

This study was carried out to investigate the scour phenomenon at the toe of seawalls and the different parameters that affected it. Experiments were achieved using different wave steepnesses, bed material grain sizes, wall positions and inclinations. Based on experimental results, the parametric plots of toe scour for smooth impermeable inclined seawalls were prepared. Also, this paper presents the bed changes prediction at seawalls toe using artificial neural networks on the basis of experimental data to widen the range of application. Suitability of using a neural network model was developed, and a model was validated. It is proposed that this model can be used in coastal engineering applications.     

Time-domain wave diffraction of two-dimensional single and twin hulls

The nonlinear diffraction of 2D single and twin hulls are studied by employing a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian model based on a higher-order cubic-spline boundary element solver. Two types of simulations are considered. In the first, waves are generated by a piston-type wave-maker in a rectangular tank and in the second case a nonlinear incident wave is assumed to exist in the tank in which the body is introduced. For the application of this model, the full nonlinear diffraction problem is recast in terms of a perturbation wave-field. Computations are performed for rectangular and triangular hull geometries. Computed results show significant nonlinearities, particularly in the heave force. The twin hull results show the influence of wave interference on the diffraction forces. This interference influences the surge force considerably, but heave force is less affected.     

Local and far-field surface elevation around a vertical cylinder in unidirectional steep wave groups

The problem of diffraction of a unidirectional incident wave group by a bottom-seated cylinder is considered. We assume the amplitude of the incoming wave to be small in comparison with other linear scales of the problem, and develop the corresponding second-order perturbation theory. We use the Fourier transform to treat time variation and separate spatial variables when solving the non-homogeneous second-order problem. The resulting set of non-homogeneous Bessel equations is solved numerically.Solutions for various types of incoming wave spectrum are obtained including the Gaussian spectrum and the Pierson–Moskowitz spectrum. To validate the method, problems with gradually decreasing bandwidth of Gaussian spectrum are solved and it is shown that the corresponding solution approaches that for the monochromatic case. The Pierson–Moskowitz spectrum with a set of realistic physical parameters is used as an example of extreme wave interaction with an offshore structure. The corresponding first- and second-order solutions are obtained and the effect of non-linearity on the solution is discussed with the emphasis on the growth of maximum free-surface elevation on the cylinder’s surface and generation of high frequency free radiated waves.     

Wave interaction with ‘’-type breakwaters

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of ‘’-type breakwaters were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves in a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersion (two emerged, one surface flushing and two submerged conditions) of this breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, K_t, and coefficient of reflection, K_r, were obtained from the measurements, and the coefficient of energy loss, K_l was calculated using the law of balance of energy. It was found that the wave transmission is significantly reduced with increased relative water depth, d/L, whether the vertical barrier of the breakwater is surface piercing or submerged, where ‘d’ is the water depth and ‘L’ is the wave length. The wave reflection decreases and energy loss increases with increased wave steepness, especially when the top tip of the vertical barrier of this breakwater is kept at still water level (SWL). For any incident wave climate (moderate or storm waves), the wave transmission consistently decreases and the reflection increases with increased relative depth of immersion, Δ/d from −0.142 to 0.142. K_t values less than 0.3 can be easily obtained for the case of Δ/d=+0.071 and 0.142, where Δ is the height of exposure (+ve) or depth of immersion (−ve) of the top tip of the vertical barrier. This breakwater is capable of dissipating wave energy to an extent of 50–80%. The overall performance of this breakwater was found to be better in the random wave fields than in the regular waves. A comparison of the hydrodynamic performance of ‘’-type and ‘T’-type shows that ‘T’-type breakwater is better than ‘’-type by about 20–30% under identical conditions.     

Derivation of coastal wind and wave parameters from offshore measurements of TOPEX satellite using ANN

The paper discusses an artificial neural network (ANN) approach to project information on wind speed and waves collected by the TOPEX satellite at deeper locations to a specified coastal site. The observations of significant wave heights, average wave period and wind speed at a number of locations over a satellite track parallel to a coastline are used to estimate corresponding values of these three parameters at the coastal site of interest. A combined network involving an input and output of all the three parameters, viz., wave height, period and wind speed instead of separate networks for each one of these variables was found to be necessary in order to train the network with sufficient flexibility. It was also found that network training based on statistical homogeneity of data sets is essential to obtain accurate results. The problem of modeling wind speeds that are always associated with very high variations in their magnitudes was tackled in this study by imparting training in an innovated manner.     

Prediction of breaking waves with neural networks

The height of a wave at the time of its breaking, as well as the depth of water in which it breaks, are the two basic parameters that are required as input in design exercises involving wave breaking. Currently the designers obtain these values with the help of graphical procedures and empirical equations. An alternative to this in the form of a neural network is presented in this paper. The networks were trained by combining the existing deterministic relations with a random component. The trained network was validated with the help of fresh laboratory observations. The validation results confirmed usefulness of the neural network approach for this application. The predicted breaking height and water depth were more accurate than those obtained traditionally through empirical schemes. Introduction of a random component in network training was found to yield better forecasts in some validation cases.     

The application of wave induced forces to a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model

This paper describes the modification of a two-dimensional finite element long wave hydrodynamic model in order to predict the net current and water levels attributable to the influences of waves. Tests examine the effects of the application of wave induced forces, including comparisons to a physical experiment. An example of a real river system is presented with comparisons to measured data, which demonstrate the importance of simulating the combined effects of tides and waves upon hydrodynamic behavior.     

福建海水鱼类人工繁殖和育苗技术的现状与展望

自90年代以来，福建海水鱼类人工繁殖和育苗技术已向着多品种和批量化方向发展，各特优种类不断增加，人工种苗为海水网箱和池塘养殖提供大量苗源，科研教学单位的多项育苗成果已转化为生产力，开始进入种苗规模化生产的可持续发展阶段。迄今为止，福建海水鱼类人工繁殖和育苗成功的种类至少有14科30种，1999年大黄鱼的育苗量已超过3亿尾，其他年产种苗千万尾以上的海水鱼类有美国红鱼、花鲈、免状黄姑针、真鲷（春季生殖群体）和花尾胡椒鲷；年产种苗数百万尾的有黑鲷、勒氏笛鲷、断斑石鲈、免鱼和斜带髭稠等种类。石首鱼科鱼类已成为人工繁殖和育苗的主要对象。本文还针对福建海水鱼类增养殖的问题，提出今后可持续发展的几点设想。     

A model for wave growth in fetch-limited conditions

In this paper, it is held that the universal relationships of wave growth in fetch-limited conditions , i. e.,(f|~) p=A(x|~)-Band (m|~)0= C(x|~) Dshould satisfy the Toba 3/2 power law and the wave energy balance equation. In the ideal generation situation, theoretically it can be derived that the ideal fetch-limited wave growth relationship should have D=3B and D B =1, (i.e., B = 0.25, D = 0.75 ) and A3C=2. 1×l(T4C~(1/2)_d , where Cd is the drag coefficient. The 3/2 power law, the wave energy balance equation and the decrease of wave steepness with increasing fetch have became three requirements which should be satisfied by fetch-limited wave growth algorithms. A semi-empirical and semi-theoretical model for fetch-limited wave growth is presented. In the application to the slanting wind situation an un(?)ersal relationship of dimensionless wave energy vs dimensionless peak frequency is presented and the comparisons show that the model is in good agreement with observations.