Characteristic analysis of wind field and sea wave field over the NW Pacific Ocean

The NW Pacific Ocean is not onIy the only transportation way between America andAsia, but also the source influencing on inIand climate and marine variability of adjacentseas in China. Based on ship observation data during l950 - l995 in the NW Pacific,with data from several hundreds to 30 thousand in every 5"x5" grid network, throughanalyzing the monthly mean directions of prevailing wind, wave and swelI, wind speed,pressure, wave height and frequencies of gaIe of 6 and 8 sca1e, high sea…     

波流共同作用下废黄河河口水下三角洲地形演变预测模式

通过对废黄河河口水下三角洲海域水文、泥沙、沉积和地形的调查分析，对组成水下三角洲-10--15m以深的平坦海床、-5--10m间的水下斜坡、-5m以浅的近岸浅滩三个地貌单元的水动力特征以及在波流和潮流作用下底部泥沙冲刷率的横向分布进行计算分析，并建立了水下三角洲地形横向剖面地形的演变预测模式。结果表明，在三角洲不同地貌单元内。由于所处不同的水动力条件和底部泥沙特性，出现了不同的侵蚀状态，其中在-10--15m以深的平坦海床，除了3m以上的大浪外，水动力作用以强劲的潮流冲刷为主，目前已接近冲刷相对平衡的状态，在-5--10m间的水下斜坡，受波浪和潮流的共同作用，冲刷强度大，地形剖面呈继续平行后退状态；-5m以浅的近岸浅滩，潮流作用相对较弱，以波浪为滩面的剧低为主，水深线不断向岸方向移动、滩宽变窄；0m以上的潮间带滩地，则波浪和潮流作用均较弱，近岸高滩接近相对稳定状态，有利于海岸线的工程防护。     

Analytical and experimental investigation on the hydrodynamic performance of onshore wave-power devices

The hydrodynamic performance of the oscillating water column type shoreline-mounted wave-power device is numerically studied within linear wave theory by using a boundary element method based on the Wehausen and Laitone 3D shallow water Green's function. In order to verify the numerical model, a 1:12 physical model with different bottom slopes was constructed and tested in a wave basin under regular wave conditions. The effects of the bottom slope on the hydrodynamic performance are investigated by both analytical and experimental methods.     

河口波流相互作用的数学模型

基于Navier-Stokes方程，考虑波流相互作用，本文提出了河水水动力数学模型，本模型考虑：（1）河水径流、相对波浪和潮流，可作为时不变的流动问题，一般作为潮流计算的部分边界条件；（2）波浪，主要是涌，其周期相对潮流可小几个数量阶，波长50－250m；（3）潮流，周期性的，时间尺度是半天到1d，波长以几十公里计；（4）地形是缓变的，其特征尺度远大于波浪长度。     

Hydrodynamic pressures and forces on quadrant front face pile supported breakwater

Quadrant front face pile supported breakwater is a combination of semicircular and closely spaced pile breakwaters which couples the advantages of these two types. This type of structure consists of two parts. The bottom portion consists of closely spaced piles and the top portion consists of a quadrant solid front face on the seaside. The leeward side of the top portion with a vertical face would facilitate the berthing of vessels. An experimental investigation on this breakwater model in a wave flume is carried out for three water depths. For each water depth, three different spacings between the piles were adopted for the investigation. The dynamic pressures exerted along the quadrant front face due to regular waves were measured. The variation of dimensionless pressures with respect to scattering parameter for different gap ratio (spacing between the piles/diameter of pile) and for relative pile depth (water depth/pile height) are presented and discussed. In addition, the dimensionless total forces exerted on the breakwater model as well as its reflection characteristics as a function of scattering parameter are reported.     

Wave interaction with partially immersed twin vertical barriers

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of partially immersed twin vertical barriers and the water surface fluctuations in between the barriers were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves of wide ranges of wave heights and periods, nine different immersions of the barriers and a constant water depth were used for the investigation. The coefficient of transmission, and the coefficient of reflection were obtained from the measurements and coefficient of energy dissipation is estimated using the law of conservation of energy. It is found in general that the twin barrier is better in reducing the coefficient of transmission and increasing the coefficient of dissipation in random waves than with the regular waves, especially for increasing incident wave energy levels. The coefficient of transmission reduces significantly with the increased relative water depth. Increase of relative water depth from 0.09 to 0.45 resulted in reduction of transmission coefficient from 0.65 to 0.05. It is possible to achieve a transmission coefficient less than 0.20 for six immersion configurations with relative depth of immersions of the barrier less than (0.28, 0.43), especially in the region closer to deep water conditions. Coefficient of dissipation ranging from 0.65 to 0.85 can be obtained due to random wave interaction.     

Wave motion over a breakwater system of a horizontal plate and a vertical porous wall

A two-dimensional analytical solution is presented to study the reflection and transmission of linear water waves propagating past a submerged horizontal plate and through a vertical porous wall. The velocity potential in each fluid domain is formulated using three sets of orthogonal eigenfunctions and the unknown coefficients are determined from the matching conditions. Wave elevations and hydrodynamic forces acting on the porous wall are computed. Reflection and transmission coefficients are presented to examine the performance of the breakwater system. The present analytical solutions are found in fairly good agreement with the available laboratory data. The results indicate that the plate length, the porous-effect, the gap between plate and porous wall, and the submerged depth of the plate all show a significant influence on the reflected and transmitted wave fields. It is also interesting to note that the submerged plate plays an important role in reducing the transmitted wave height, especially for long incident waves.     

Wave interaction with ‘’-type breakwaters

The wave transmission, reflection and energy dissipation characteristics of ‘’-type breakwaters were studied using physical models. Regular and random waves in a wide range of wave heights and periods and a constant water depth were used. Five different depths of immersion (two emerged, one surface flushing and two submerged conditions) of this breakwater were selected. The coefficient of transmission, K_t, and coefficient of reflection, K_r, were obtained from the measurements, and the coefficient of energy loss, K_l was calculated using the law of balance of energy. It was found that the wave transmission is significantly reduced with increased relative water depth, d/L, whether the vertical barrier of the breakwater is surface piercing or submerged, where ‘d’ is the water depth and ‘L’ is the wave length. The wave reflection decreases and energy loss increases with increased wave steepness, especially when the top tip of the vertical barrier of this breakwater is kept at still water level (SWL). For any incident wave climate (moderate or storm waves), the wave transmission consistently decreases and the reflection increases with increased relative depth of immersion, Δ/d from −0.142 to 0.142. K_t values less than 0.3 can be easily obtained for the case of Δ/d=+0.071 and 0.142, where Δ is the height of exposure (+ve) or depth of immersion (−ve) of the top tip of the vertical barrier. This breakwater is capable of dissipating wave energy to an extent of 50–80%. The overall performance of this breakwater was found to be better in the random wave fields than in the regular waves. A comparison of the hydrodynamic performance of ‘’-type and ‘T’-type shows that ‘T’-type breakwater is better than ‘’-type by about 20–30% under identical conditions.     

Even–odd analysis on a complex shoreline

An even–odd signal decomposition is performed on a complex shoreline having a longshore sediment transport gradient. The expected impact of erosion due to a navigation channel and structures is discussed and implications of the transport gradient on the decomposed shoreline signal are noted.     

A new approximation for ocean waves propagating over a beach with variable depth

In this paper, the phenomenon of ocean waves propagating over a beach with variable water depth is re-examined. Based on the assumption of shallow water, a linearised shallow water equation is solved with an arbitrary beach profile. These irregular beach profiles form a set of partial differential equation with variable coefficient as the governing equation, which is the main obstacle in obtaining analytical solutions. In this paper, two families of beach profile are used as examples. A parametric study is conducted to investigate the influence of the beach profiles on the water surface elevation (η) and velocities (u).