Large-scale laboratory measurements of solitary wave inundation on a 1:20 slope

The run-up flow and related pressure of solitary waves breaking on a 1:20 plane beach were investigated experimentally in a super tank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m). Swash flow measurements of flow velocities are compared with an existing analytical solution. By incorporating an analytical solution, the hydrodynamic pressure for a quasi-steady flow state is determined and compared with laboratory data. Concerning the evident extra pressure exerted by the impact of swash flow, an empirical drag coefficient for a circular plate is also suggested in the present study.     

Prototype measurements and small-scale model tests of wave overtopping at shallow rubble-mound breakwaters: the Ostia-Rome yacht harbour case

The paper presents the comparison between the results of small-scale model tests and prototype measurements of wave overtopping at a rubble-mound breakwater. The specific structure investigated is the west breakwater of the yacht harbour of Rome at Ostia (Italy) and is characterized by a gentle seaward slope (1/4) and by a long, shallow foreshore. The laboratory tests firstly aimed at carefully reproducing two measured storms in which overtopping occurred and was measured. The tests have been carried out in two independent laboratories, in a wave flume and in a wave basin, hence using a two-dimensional (2-D) and a three-dimensional (3-D) setup. In the 2-D laboratory tests no overtopping occurred during the storm reproductions; in the 3-D case discharges five to ten times smaller than those observed in prototype have been measured. This indicates the existence of model and scale effects. These effects have been discussed on the basis of the results of several parametric tests, which have been carried out in both laboratories, in addition to the storm reproductions, varying wave and water level characteristics. Final comparison of all the performed tests with 86 prototype measurements still suggests the existence of scale and model effects that induce strong underestimation of overtopping discharge at small scale. The scale reproduction of wave breaking on the foreshore, together with the 3-D features of the prototype conditions and the absence of wind stress in the laboratory measurements, have been individuated as the main sources of scale and model effects. The paper also provides a comparison between the data and a largely used formula for wave overtopping discharges in the presence of structures similar to the one at hand. The suitable value of a roughness factor that appears in that formula is investigated and good agreement is found with other recent researches on rubble-mound breakwaters.     

白浪覆盖率模式中参量的研究

在波面位移为正态过程的假定下,推导出一种以平均周期和风速为参量的白浪覆盖率公式W=1-Φ[5.11094[-T/U10]0.7576].依据摩擦风速和U10的表达式,进一步推导出白浪覆盖率依赖于摩擦风速的形式W=1-Φ[0.5227[-T/U]0.7576]].考虑到在实际应用中,经常需要用波龄描述波浪的状态,将白浪覆盖率表示成一种形式简单的波龄的函数W=1-Φ(3.6496ξ0.7576),与Monahan等的海上测量数据符合良好.     

深海管道钢的腐蚀疲劳裂纹扩展特性试验研究

采用侧壁开槽型CT试样,分别在空气和3.5%NaCl溶液中进行腐蚀疲劳裂纹扩展试验,研究海底管道用钢X65在海水腐蚀环境下的腐蚀疲劳裂纹扩展特性。为保证试样既能满足腐蚀疲劳试验机的夹具要求,又可控制裂纹沿直线方向扩展,采用侧壁开槽技术对CT试样进行改进;利用有限元软件ABAQUS,建立三维模型,验证了对于侧壁开槽型CT试样,可以采用ASTM标准推荐的应力强度因子表达式对改进后CT试样开展数值计算。利用YYF-50腐蚀疲劳试验装置开展试验,试验结果表明:和惰性环境相比,腐蚀环境不仅会加速X65钢的裂纹扩展速率,还会降低腐蚀疲劳体系下裂纹扩展的门槛值;在腐蚀体系下存在裂纹扩展的稳定阶段,可采用Paris公式对其腐蚀疲劳裂纹扩展速率进行预测。     

高度计波高数据同化对印度洋海域海浪模式预报影响研究

为提高海浪模式预报的精度,改善初始场是途径之一。研制了基于最优插值(OI)方法的海浪数据同化并行程序模块,并将其植入第三代海浪模式WAVEWATCH IIITM,建立了印度洋海域海浪同化预报方法,使用卫星高度计波高数据进行了同化预报试验。OI模块的并行设计使得植入同化模块的海浪模式仍能以并行方式运行。文中5°S以北印度洋海域为目标区域,嵌套在WAVE-WATCH IIITM的全球网格中,使得目标区域开边界条件得到较好解决。同化数据使用Jason-2高度计测量有效波高(SWH)沿轨数据。海浪同化预报模式由大气模式WRF(Weather Research andForecasting)输出的1小时一次的海面10 m风场驱动。将同化的模式结果(SWH)、无同化的模式结果(SWH)分别与高度计沿轨数据(SWH)进行比较,表明同化改善模式预报初始场的效果是明显的。以同化初始场出发进行海浪预报试验,结果表明,高度计波高数据同化在一定程度上可改进海浪短期预报的精度。     

泉州湾海域海浪谱

本文根据福建泉州湾大量实测海浪谱资料,分析了该海域海浪内部结构特征,比较和检验了国内外常用的Ｐ－Ｍ谱、Ｊｏｎｓｗａｐ谱、规范谱及国内沿岸海区的一些经验谱,结果取了与本海区实测海浪个例谱结构接近程度最好的Ｊｏｎｓｗａｐ谱拟合泉州湾海浪谱模式。     

Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

—In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.     

A Modified Form of Mild-Slope Equation with Weakly Nonlinear Effect

Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast.     

高阶非线性完全频散性波浪数值模型及应用

为更精确地模拟强非线性完全频散性波浪的传播,采用长波上非线性重力表面波传播高阶数学模型,综合参考此模式已有的研究成果,建立了一个高达五阶的完全频散性非线性数值模型。应用该五阶模式对斜坡地形、潜堤地形及正弦沙链地形进行模拟计算,并与已有的实验资料进行对比,结果显示五阶模式较低阶模式模拟结果的精度上有了明显提高,模拟波形与实验结果吻合度良好,证明高阶模式更适用于高频散高非线性波浪传播的数值模拟。