The statistical distribution of nearbed wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth

The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data.     

Distribution and spatial variation of hydrothermal faunal assemblages at Lucky Strike (Mid-Atlantic Ridge) revealed by high-resolution video image analysis

Whilst the fauna inhabiting hydrothermal vent structures in the Atlantic Ocean is reasonably well known, less is understood about the spatial distributions of the fauna in relation to abiotic and biotic factors. In this study, a major active hydrothermal edifice (Eiffel Tower, at 1690 m depth) on the Lucky Strike vent field (Mid-Atlantic Ridge (MAR)) was investigated. Video transects were carried out by ROV Victor 6000 and complete image coverage was acquired. Four distinct assemblages, ranging from dense larger-sized Bathymodiolus mussel beds to smaller-sized mussel clumps and alvinocaridid shrimps, and two types of substrata were defined based on high definition photographs and video imagery. To evaluate spatial variation, faunal distribution was mapped in three dimensions. A high degree of patchiness characterizes this 11 m high sulfide structure. The differences observed in assemblage and substratum distribution were related to habitat characteristics (fluid exits, depth and structure orientation). Gradients in community structure were observed, which coincided with an increasing distance from the fluid exits. A biological zonation model for the Eiffel Tower edifice was created in which faunal composition and distribution can be visually explained by the presence/absence of fluid exits.     

江苏近岸海域水文气象要素的时空分布特征

2006～2007年在江苏近岸海域进行水文气象要素(气温、湿度、风速风向、波浪、透明度、水色和海水温盐度等)大面观测。数据分析表明,各水文气象要素具有较大的空间分异,四季变化显著。秋季气温明显高于春季,冬季气温较历史数据偏高。整个海域风速较大,风向受季风控制,有效波高与风速之间显著相关。如东附近海域波浪较大,废黄河口波浪较小;春、夏季有效波高较小,而夏、秋季近岸海域波高较小,离岸波高增大。夏季海水透明度最大,平均为2.3m;冬季透明度最小,平均只有0.6m;水色与透明度呈负指数相关。春、秋季水温分布与气温分布基本一致,冬季大致沿等深线分布。射阳河口与长江口为低盐区,辐射沙脊群外缘为高盐区。与20世纪80年代的调查结果相比,出现了一些新特点。这些新的调查成果可为江苏近岸海域的海洋环境保护和可持续发展提供科学依据。     

CC区多金属结核分布特征及其与地质地理环境因素之间的关系

根据１９８７、１９８８、１９９０年东北赤道太平洋ＣＣ区的３个航次多金属结核调查资料的统计分析，结果表明，ＣＣ区自西向东，从北向南，多金属结核丰度，覆盖率、形态、粒径和化学组分等具明显的区域分布规律，但在这一区域性分布背景上，结核的局部分布很复杂。     

Chlorophyll biomass off Sanriku, northwestern Pacific, estimated by Ocean Color and Temperature Scanner (OCTS) and a vertical distribution model

To estimate chlorophyll biomass from satellite-derived data, we established an empirical model for the estimation of the chlorophyll vertical profile as a function of surface chlorophyll for four separate regions of the Sanriku area, using algorithms based upon ship observations from 1986 to 1995. The modeled profiles compared well with observations during the Sanriku Field Campaign. Chlorophyll biomass in the Sanriku Area estimated by a combination of OCTS data and the model varied from 2.6×10⁴ t in the Oyashio water to 8.2×10³ t in the Kuroshio water.     

Computation of solitary waves during propagation and runup on a slope

A numerical time-simulation algorithm for analysing highly nonlinear solitary waves interacting with plane gentle and steep slopes is described by employing a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian method. The full nonlinear free surface conditions are considered here in a Lagrangian frame of reference without any analytical approximations, and thus the method is valid for very steep waves including overturning. It is found that the runup height is crucially dependent on the wave steepness and the slope of the plane. Pressures and forces exerted on impermeable walls of different inclinations (slopes) by progressive shallow water solitary waves are studied. Strong nonlinear features in the form of pronounced double peaks are visible in the time history of pressure and force signals with increasing heights of the oncoming solitary waves. The effect of nonlinearity is less pronounced as the inclination of the wall decreases with respect to the bottom surface.     

多向不规则波浪作用下群墩结构上爬高的计算研究

波浪的方向分布对波浪的传播及其与工程结构物的作用都具有明显影响,目前现有的研究大多是基于单向波浪进行的。为了研究方向分布对群墩结构上的爬高影响,基于规则波浪与群墩作用的理论解,结合多向不规则波浪的造波方法,建立了多向不规则波浪与群墩作用的计算模型,同时进行了物理模型试验对模型的有效性进行了验证。系统地对群墩周围及表面上的波浪爬高进行了计算分析,结果表明,方向分布对波浪爬高具有较大的影响,且不同位置处的影响并不相同,在实际的工程设计中如果按照单向波浪计算,可能低估或者高估群墩周围的爬高。     

海州湾南部海域不同季节虾类数量及其分布特征

根据2009年5月、9月和12月对海州湾南部海域3个航次的渔业资源调查资料,对该海域十足目虾类的数量和分布的特征进行了初步研究,且探讨了优势种、温度、盐度、水深等因素对以上特征的影响。结果表明,5月虾类资源量最高,9月最低,12月较9月有所回升,分别以戴氏赤虾Metapenaeopsis dalei和日本鼓虾Alpheus japonicus、细巧仿对虾Parapenaeopsis tenella和刀额新对虾Metapenaeus ensis、日本鼓虾等为主要优势种。5月和9月虾类平面分布趋势均为西北外侧和东南水域较低,南面沿岸较均匀,东部和中部出现最高值;12月北面和南面近岸资源量较低,其他水域较均匀,最高值出现在东部水域。逐步回归分析表明,海州湾虾类资源量与底盐间存在显著相关关系,其他水文因素无显著相关关系。此外,优势种生态习性、赤潮和径流等是影响海州湾虾类数量和分布变化的主要因素。     

Modelling the long-term distribution of significant wave height with the Beta and Gamma models

The paper suggests modelling the long-term distribution of significant wave height with the Gamma, Beta of the first and second kind models. The three models are interrelated, flexible and cover the three different tail types of Extreme Value Theory. They can be used simultaneously as a means of assessing the uncertainty effects that result from choosing equally plausible models with different tail types. This procedure is intended for those applications that require the long-term distribution of significant wave height as input rather than the prediction of extreme values. The models are fitted to some significant wave data as an illustration. Details about maximum likelihood estimation are given in A.     

A mass mortality of subtropical intertidal populations of the sea urchin Paracentrotus lividus: analysis of potential links with environmental conditions

An outbreak of bald sea urchin disease was detected affecting intertidal populations of the edible temperate species Paracentrotus lividus at its southernmost geographical limit. The mortality event was detected in three sites (Güímar, Palmar and Alcalá) off Tenerife, Canary Islands (Northeastern Atlantic), in October 2003, coinciding with the highest sea surface temperatures (SST) and the lowest wave heights of the year. The prevalence of infection reached 100% but did not affect equally all studied sites or the different size classes. The disease was more prevalent in large sea urchins (>40 mm). The prevalence appeared to be positively correlated with the environmental variable SST and negatively correlated with wave height. In October 2004, only two infected urchins were found (prevalence 1%) at one of the studied sites. However, during 2004 no such extreme values of temperature and wave height were observed. We conclude that high SSTs and low wave heights such as those observed during 2003 are conditions that may trigger outbreaks of urchin disease.