Prototype measurements and small-scale model tests of wave overtopping at shallow rubble-mound breakwaters: the Ostia-Rome yacht harbour case

The paper presents the comparison between the results of small-scale model tests and prototype measurements of wave overtopping at a rubble-mound breakwater. The specific structure investigated is the west breakwater of the yacht harbour of Rome at Ostia (Italy) and is characterized by a gentle seaward slope (1/4) and by a long, shallow foreshore. The laboratory tests firstly aimed at carefully reproducing two measured storms in which overtopping occurred and was measured. The tests have been carried out in two independent laboratories, in a wave flume and in a wave basin, hence using a two-dimensional (2-D) and a three-dimensional (3-D) setup. In the 2-D laboratory tests no overtopping occurred during the storm reproductions; in the 3-D case discharges five to ten times smaller than those observed in prototype have been measured. This indicates the existence of model and scale effects. These effects have been discussed on the basis of the results of several parametric tests, which have been carried out in both laboratories, in addition to the storm reproductions, varying wave and water level characteristics. Final comparison of all the performed tests with 86 prototype measurements still suggests the existence of scale and model effects that induce strong underestimation of overtopping discharge at small scale. The scale reproduction of wave breaking on the foreshore, together with the 3-D features of the prototype conditions and the absence of wind stress in the laboratory measurements, have been individuated as the main sources of scale and model effects. The paper also provides a comparison between the data and a largely used formula for wave overtopping discharges in the presence of structures similar to the one at hand. The suitable value of a roughness factor that appears in that formula is investigated and good agreement is found with other recent researches on rubble-mound breakwaters.     

Formula for predicting bedload transport rate in oscillatory sheet flows

The method of Wang [Wang, Y.-H., 2007. Formula for predicting bedload transport rate in oscillatory sheet flow. Coastal Engineering 54, 594–601] to predict the wave friction factor is discussed. At the threshold of sediment entrainment the proposed equation produces a wide scatter of data points when plotted against an equation based on the Shields parameter. It is shown that a better correlation coefficient can be obtained by calculating the critical wave friction factor directly from the wave period, as well as the sediment and water properties.     

Large-scale laboratory measurements of solitary wave inundation on a 1:20 slope

The run-up flow and related pressure of solitary waves breaking on a 1:20 plane beach were investigated experimentally in a super tank (300 m × 5 m × 5.2 m). Swash flow measurements of flow velocities are compared with an existing analytical solution. By incorporating an analytical solution, the hydrodynamic pressure for a quasi-steady flow state is determined and compared with laboratory data. Concerning the evident extra pressure exerted by the impact of swash flow, an empirical drag coefficient for a circular plate is also suggested in the present study.     

A temporally second-order accurate Godunov-type scheme for solving the extended Boussinesq equations

A numerical scheme for solving the class of extended Boussinesq equations is presented. Unlike previous schemes, where the governing equations are integrated through time using a fourth-order method, a second-order Godunov-type scheme is used thus saving storage and computational resources. The spatial derivatives are discretised using a combination of finite-volume and finite-difference methods. A fourth-order MUSCL reconstruction technique is used to compute the values at the cell interfaces for use in the local Riemann problems, whilst the bed source and dispersion terms are discretised using centred finite-differences of up to fourth-order accuracy. Numerical results show that the class of extended Boussinesq equations can be accurately solved without the need for a fourth-order time discretisation, thus improving the computational speed of Boussinesq-type numerical models. The numerical scheme has been applied to model a number of standard test cases for the extended Boussinesq equations and comparisons made to physical wave flume experiments.     

Higher harmonics induced by a submerged horizontal plate and a submerged rectangular step in a wave flume

The decomposition of a monochromatic wave over a submerged plate is investigated experimentally in a wave flume. Bound and free higher harmonic modes propagating upstream and downstream the structure are discriminated by means of moving resistive probes. The first-order analysis shows a resonant behaviour linked to the ratio of the plate's width and the fundamental mode wavelength over the plate. The second-order analysis shows an energy transfer from the fundamental mode towards free harmonics propagating downstream the structure. This transfer is linked to the ratio of the width of the plate and the bound harmonic wavelength over the plate. We also performed experiments with a submerged step to compare the efficiency of both structures. The submerged plate is shown to be a more efficient breakwater than the step, at the first as well as the second-order.     

Water waves generated by instantaneous disturbances at the bed of a sloping beach

The two-dimensional problem of the generation of water waves due to instantaneous disturbances prescribed at the bed of a beach sloping at an arbitrary angle is studied here. It is formulated in terms of an initial-boundary-value problem for the velocity potential describing the motion in the fluid region assuming the linear theory. Using the Laplace transform in time and the Mellin transform in distance, the problem is reduced to solving a difference equation whose method of solution is of considerable importance in the literature. The form of the free surface is obtained in terms of a multiple infinite integral that is evaluated by the method of steepest-descent. For some prescribed forms of the disturbance at the bed of the beach, the free surface is depicted in a number of figures for different beach angles. It is observed that as the beach angle decreases, the maximum wave height increases, which is plausible.     

透射波波场重建和介质层厚反演研究

本文以P波和SV波波场比值,提出层状介质情况下透射波波场的反向重建算法原理,并据此给出在已知介质速度值时,求介质层厚度的反演方法。文中还以深源远震记录波形资料给出反演算例,证实本文的算法是可行的。     

大气中一类非线性方程的非线性波解及周期的近似计算法

大气中许多模式可化为Ｆ＇＇＝ＡＦ／Ｆ＋Ｂ（ＡＢ≠０）一类非线性常微分方程。利用常微分方程定性理论说明了该方程存在非线性波解，讨论了其周期的计算问题，并求得了波解及其周期的近似表达式。     

石油物探技术的进展

概括地论述了石油物探技术在80年代的新进展.与70年代相比,80年代石油地球物理勘探技术取得了前所未有的成就;同时,也存在不少亟待解决的问题,且难度相当大.这些问题正是90年代所面临的研究课题.     

断裂系扩展过程与地球物理场变化特征的实验研究

给出了判断断裂之间有无相互作用的力学判据.为了研究断裂间相互作用对地球物理场的影响,对若干类常见断裂系的扩展过程及扩展过程中的声发射b 值和波速变化进行了模拟实验研究.结果表明,各种断裂系由于相互作用的不同,扩展过程,声发射b 值和波速度化均有明显的不同特征.