Dynamic Response Behaviors of Upright Breakwaters Under Breaking Wave Impact

- The dynamic response behaviors of upright breakwaters under broken wave impact are analysed based on the mass-damper-spring dynamic system model. The effects of the mass, damping, stiffness, natural period, and impulse duration (or oscillation period) on the translation, rotation, sliding force, overturning moment, and corresponding dynamic amplifying factors are studied. It is concluded that the ampli-ying factors only depend on the ratio of the system natural period to impulse duration (or oscillation period) under a certain damping ratio. Moreover, the equivalent static approach to breakwater design is also discussed.     

波峰特征量的统计分布

本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关     

Effect of Sea Level Variation on Tidal Characteristic Values for the East China Sea

1 .IntroductionTheglobalairtemperatureroseabout 0 .5～ 0 .6°Coverthepast 2 0thcentury ,andtheglobalmeansealevelincreasedbyabout2 0cmduringtheperiod .Theregionalmeansealevelriseswiththerisingglobalmeansealevel.Zuoetal.( 1 997)indicatedthatthemeanrisingrateofabsolutemeansealevelalongtheChinacoastontheassumptionofunifiedisostaticdatumis 2mm a .Woodworth( 1 999)analyzedsealevelspanning 1 76 8tothepresentinLiverpool,andobtainedaseculartrendforheperiodupto 1 880of0 .39± 0 .1 7mm a ,andatrendfort…     

A Three-Point Method for Separating Incident and Reflected Waves over A Sloping Bed

This study presents a three-point method for separating incident and reflected waves to explain normally incident waves' propagating over a sloping bed. Linear wave shoaling is used to determine changes in wave amplitude and phase in response to variations of bathymetry. The wave reflection coefficient and incident amplitude are estimated from wave heights measured at three fixed wave gauges with unequal spacing. Sensitivity analysis demonstrates that the proposed method can predict the reflection and amplitude of waves over a sloping bed more accurately than the two-point method.     

层结流体中的非线性惯性重力内波

根据地球流体力学基本方程组,在密度垂直层结的情况下,引进行波坐标,研究非线性定形波在相平面上的几何拓扑结构。严格论证了不存在定形孤立波,并通过Ｈａｍｉｌｔｏｎ函数及其角作用变把行波系统化成最简形式,由此而得到非线性惯性重力内波的解析解。     

南海大气低层风场的气候特征分析

分析１９８０－１９８７年欧洲中长期预报中心（ＥＣＭＷＦ）每日风场、温度场格点资料及同期南海区域测站和船舶资料，讨论南海低层风场的气候特征。南海为典型的季风活动区，冬季盛行东北季风，夏季盛行西南季风。流场的季节转换表现为季风系统的交替，相应不同的季风系统，南北温度梯度有一逆转过程，南海北部是温度梯度大且发生明显逆转的海区。１２°Ｎ以南海区气温全年变化极小，整个海区大气温度的季节变化不如流场变化快和显著。     

青岛地区的台风暴潮与潮灾

本文分析了青岛沿海地区的台风暴潮灾害状况，给出了潮位与海浪的联合作用对灾的影响关系式，提出了今后风暴潮预报的思路。     

长江口三维潮流数值计算及动力分析

采用三维动力学数学模型对长江口潮流场进行了计算，对长江口潮流流态在一个潮周期内逐时进行了分析，并对长江口南支盐水倒灌从动力学角度进行了初步探讨。计算结果表明：文中模型较好地重演长江口潮流场，可以用于大型复杂河口工程实际中的潮流场的计算和分析。     

Effects of Irregular Wave Groups on Pile Forces

The wave forces on 1, 2 and 4 vertical circular piles under the action of several wave trains of the same wave parameters, such as Hs,Tp and Mo, but different wave group factor GF are measured in the laboratory. After comparing these forces, it may be concluded that the mean and significant wave forces are almost of no difference for the wave trains with different GF. When GF is larger, the one-tenth of the wave froce extreme is slightly increased and the maximum wave force is much larger than the ones with smaller GF, to which attention must be paid in engineering practice.