有风浪太湖水体的光照传输模式

根据辐射传输方程的近似解方法和光照传输的累加原理,建立了包括水面风浪效应、水中悬浮粒多次散射和底泥反射的垂直分层水体的光照传输数值模式。利用该模式和太湖悬浮粒实测资料,计算和讨论了太湖水体中光照随水深的变化以及悬浮粒浓度、风浪和太阳高度的影响。结果表明,悬浮粒的多次散射所形成的漫射光是湖水中光照不可忽视的重要部分。在水体的下层,漫射光甚至是光照的主要构成部分。风浪对水中光照的影响则主要在天顶角大于70°时才明显地表现出来,此时风浪水体对太阳直接辐射和全辐射的反射率比平静水面都有明显的减小。     

南海波高熵和风速熵

根据风速的统计分布，给出了有因次风速熵和无因次风速熵的定义及其计算方法，使用ＧＥＯＳＡＴ高度计１９８６年１１月－１９８９年２月的有效波高和风速的资料，计算，分析了南海海域上的波高熵，风速熵，给出它们的时间变化特征和空间变化特征，并对不同随机量的无因次熵，即随机度进行了比较。     

东海虾类的生态群落与区系特征

有关东海的虾类，刘瑞玉(1959，1963，1964)、董聿茂(1959，1980，1986)等已做过大量的调查研究。近10多年来，由于东海传统的主要经济鱼类资源衰退，捕食虾类的鱼类减少，因此，使虾类生存空间扩大，这有利于虾类资源的繁衍生长，使虾类资源发生量增多，数量增长较快。东海区三省一市近几年虾类产量达到80×104~90×104t，其中浙江省为60×104~70×104t，拖虾作业已成为东海区一大作业方式，对促进海洋捕捞业的发展起重要作用。20世纪80年代中后期，我们开展了东海虾类资源开发调查，尔后又继续与拖虾生产船相结合进行监测调查，积累了一些资料，本文就东海虾类生态群落结构与区系特征进行探讨。     

关于波浪Boussinesq方程的研究

对有关波浪 Boussinesq方程的研究成果进行了系统的归纳总结和评述 ,以期对本学科的发展起到一定的引导和促进作用     

Geoacoustic Inversion via Genetic Algorithm and Its Application to Manganese Sediment Identification

An acoustic inversion method using a wide-band signal and two near field receivers is proposed and applied to multiple layered seabed models including a manganese sediment. The inversion problem can be formulated into a probabilistic model comprised of signals, a forward model, and additive noise. The forward model simulates wide-band signals, such as chirp signals, and is chosen to be the source-waveletconvolution plane wave modeling method. The wavelet matching technique, using weighted least-squares fitting, estimates the sediment sound-speed and thickness on which determination of the possible numerical ranges for a priori uniform distribution is based. The genetic algorithm is applied to a global optimization problem to find a maximum a posteriori solution for determined a priori search space. Here the object function is defined by an L 2 norm of the difference between measured and modeled signals. Not only the marginal pdf but also its statistics are calculated by numerical evaluation of integrals using the samples selected during importance sampling process of the genetic algorithm.     

Triple diagram method for the prediction of wave height and period

Many formulations have been developed so far to predict the wave height and period from fetch length and wind blowing duration for a constant wind speed. This study aimed to predict wave parameters from fetch length and meteorological factors by using triple diagram methodology based on Kriging principles. Proposed model results were compared with Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP) model which is used so commonly in the ocean and coastal engineering studies. For the implementation of the methodology hourly wave and wind data were obtained from a buoy located in Lake Ontario. Numerical and graphical comparisons demonstrated that the proposed method outperforms the classical formulation.     

A note on the effects of a thin visco-elastic mud layer on small amplitude water-wave propagation

In this note we investigated the effects of a thin visco-elastic mud layer on wave propagation. Within the framework of linear water-wave theory, analytical solutions are obtained for damping rate, dispersion relation between wave frequency and wave number, and velocity components in the water column and mud layer. The wave attenuation rate reaches a maximum value when the mud layer thickness is about the same as the mud boundary layer thickness. Heavier mud has a weaker effect on the wave damping. However, the wave attenuation rate does not always decrease as the elastic shear modulus increases. In the range of small values for elastic shear modulus, the wave attenuation can be amplified quite significantly. The current solutions are compared with experimental data with different wave conditions and mud properties. In general, good agreements are observed.     

A linear Boltzmann equation to model wave scattering in the marginal ice zone

We present a linear Boltzmann equation to model wave scattering in the Marginal Ice Zone (the region of ocean which consists of broken ice floes). The equation is derived by two methods, the first based on Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991] and second based on Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136]. This linear Boltzmann equation, we believe, is more suitable than the equation presented in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] because of its simpler form, because it is a differential rather than difference equation and because it does not depend on any assumptions about the ice floe geometry. However, the linear Boltzmann equation presented here is equivalent to the equation in Masson and LeBlond [Masson, D., LeBlond, P., 1989. Spectral evolution of wind-generated surface gravity waves in a dispersed ice field. J. Fluid Mech. 202, 111–136] since it is derived from their equation. Furthermore, the linear Boltzmann equation is also derived independently using the argument in Meylan et al. [Meylan, M.H., Squire, V.A., Fox, C., 1997. Towards realism in modeling ocean wave behavior in marginal ice zones. J. Geophys. Res. 102 (C10), 22981–22991]. We also present details of how the scattering kernel in the linear Boltzmann equation is found from the scattering by an individual ice floe and show how the linear Boltzmann equation can be solved straightforwardly in certain cases.     

天然感潮河道水流紊动特性分析

采用多谱勒三相流速仪，在长江口徐六泾水文观测断面分别进行了涨潮、落潮时中泓与近岸垂线的流速观测，根据这些观测资料，对天然感潮河段潮流紊动的周期、频率、概率密度函数等进行了定量的数学描述，并对时均流速、紊动强度、雷诺应力等沿垂线分布进行了分析计算。     

A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.