The importance of extratropical and tropical cyclones on the short-term evolution of barrier islands along the northern Gulf of Mexico, USA

Data are presented indicating the complexity and highly variable response of beaches to cold front passages along the northern Gulf of Mexico, in addition to the impacts of tropical cyclones and winter storms. Within the past decade, an increase in the frequency of tropical storms and hurricanes impacting the northern Gulf has dramatically altered the long-term equilibrium of a large portion of this coast. A time series of net sediment flux for subaerial and nearshore environments has been established for a section of this coast in Florida, and to a lesser extent, Mississippi. The data incorporate the morphological signature of six tropical storms/hurricanes and more than 200 frontal passages.

Data indicate that (1) barrier islands can conserve mass during catastrophic hurricanes (e.g., Hurricane Opal, a strong category 4 hurricane near landfall); (2) less severe hurricanes and tropical storms can promote rapid dune aggradation and can contribute sediment to the entire barrier system; (3) cold fronts play a critical role in the poststorm adjustment of the barrier by deflating the subaerial portion of the overwash terrace and eroding its marginal lobe along the bayside beach through locally generated, high frequency, steep waves; and (4) barrier systems along the northern Gulf do not necessarily enter an immediate poststorm recovery phase, although nested in sediment-rich nearshore environments. While high wave energy conditions associated with cold fronts play an integral role in the evolution and maintenance of barriers along the northern Gulf, these events are more effective in reworking sediment after the occurrence of extreme events such as hurricanes. This relationship is even more apparent during the clustering of tropical cyclones.

It is anticipated that these findings will have important implications for the longer term evolution of barrier systems in midlatitude, microtidal settings where the clustering of storms is apparent, and winter storms are significant in intensity and frequency along the coast.     

南海晚第四纪硅藻遗体及其地质意义Ⅵ.硅藻的2个新种和7个新记录

本文记述了南海晚第四纪沉积物中发现的两个新种[线形辐环藻（Actinocyclus lineatus Liu,Cheng et Lan sp.nov.）、星圆筛藻（Coscinodiscus aster-aeus Cheng,Liu et Lan sp.nov.）]以及在我国首次记录的圆筛藻的7个种。     

对应分析方法在粤西水东湾动力沉积环境分析的应用

本文以粤西水东湾表层沉积物样品的粒度分布为基本数据,使用对应分析方法并结合地形与波流特征,分析了海湾动力沉积环境。分析结果表明,海湾现代沉积环境可划分为4个动力沉积区。     

日本海古海洋环境的演化

基于近年来有关日本海的古海洋古环境研究成果，总结概述了日本海中新世以来的古气候和古海洋环境演化特征。日本海作为西北太平洋一个主要的边缘海，在全球气候变化过程中起着重要的作用。它的古气候古环境演化，与全球其他地区一样受控于地球轨道参数的变化，同时也发育一些由气候的不稳定性、海峡的开合与其他一些地球气候系统的非线性活动所驱动的突发性快速气候变化事件。日本海的古海平面、古海水温度、古洋流等因子的变化还受到冰盖扩张和退缩、构造运动、冰川性地壳均衡补偿、东亚季风等因素的影响，具有鲜明的区域特点。总体说来，目前对日本海的研究程度还不高，对它在全球气候变化中的作用过程、驱动和响应机制的了解还很有限，需要进一步深入研究。     

杭州湾海域水体悬沙粒度统计分析

利用2000年9月在杭州湾进行的原型水文泥沙测验所获取的648个悬沙粒度样品,进行了样品粒度统计分析,结果表明:在杭州湾测验区域,粒径为4.00～20.20μm的悬沙出现频率最高;悬沙的中值粒径值自东向西迅速增大;北岸海域悬沙的中值粒径值大于南岸海域悬沙的中值粒径值。     

Atmospheric Correction of SeaWiFS Data for the Retrieval of Suspended Sediment in East China Coastal Waters

The data of SeaWiFS (Sea-Viewing Wide Field-of-View Sensor), installed on SeaStar, has been used to generate SSC (suspended sediment concentration) of complex and turbid coastal waters in China. In view of the problems of the SeaDAS (SeaWiFS Data Analysis System) algorithm applied to China coastal waters, a new atmospheric correction algorithm is discussed, developed, and used for the SSC of East China coastal waters. The advantages of the new algorithm are described through the comparison of the restdts from different algorithms.     

海底柱状沉积物超声测量

运用RS-ST01C超声测试仪,对32个海底沉积物柱状样品进行了现场超声波声学测量,并作了声速剖面初步分析,结果表明,样品及其固定方法、耦合剂、t0值、生物含量、取样效果和频率等因素对测量的结果均有一定影响,其中,样品及其固定方法、t0值、生物含量以及取样效果对声速测量的结果影响较大,而耦合剂和频率等因素对其影响较小。     

南黄海表层沉积物中氮的区域地球化学特征

通过分级浸取分离的方法获得了南黄海表层沉积物不同形态的氮，首次探讨其分布的区域性特征：南黄海表层沉积物中各形态氮在不同测线上均呈现出波状分布。B测线的基本上呈现出中部海域高，两边海域低，而西部海域又略高于东部海域的趋势，D和E测线的基本上呈现出西高、东低的趋势，C测线的则呈现出西低、东高的趋势，F测线的变化趋势比较平缓，从整体上看，SOEF—N和TN的分布呈现出西部海区比东部海区低的趋势。受各测线上沉积物种类差异的影响，自北向南各形态氮的变化幅度逐渐减小，其中SOEF-N在各测线上的变化幅度最大，且自北向南降幅最大。受水动力及沉积物粒度的影响，不同形态氮在黄海槽内各站位沉积物中的含量较高。沉积物中各形态氮在不同测线上的分布还表明，陆源输入对南黄海沉积物中氮测线分布有较小的影响，海洋自生氮对南黄海表层沉积物中氮的形态、含量与分布具有重要影响。     

The dynamic behaviour of a river-dominated tidal inlet, River Murray, Australia

Australia's largest river, the River Murray, discharges to the southern ocean through a coastal lagoon and river-dominated tidal inlet. Increased water extractions upstream for irrigation have led to significantly reduced flows at the mouth and, as a result, the area is undergoing rapid change, particularly with regard to the rate at which sediment is being transported into the lagoon. Based on detailed and accurate bathymetric surveys it has been possible to estimate that the rate of lagoon in-filling is of the order of 100,000 m³ per year for the period June 2000 to May 2003, although the actual rate shows significant year to year variability. Dredging of the lagoon commenced in 2000 in an attempt to reverse the trend.In an effort to understand the behaviour of the inlet a one-dimensional numerical model of the inlet has been developed. The model extends the original of van de Kreeke by including a dynamic inlet throat area based on predicted river flows and a sediment transport module to predict the resulting net sediment transport. Comparisons with water level data collected on both the ocean and lagoon sides of the mouth have shown that the model is able to predict the attenuation and lag of the tidal signal reasonably well. The sediment transport model was based on predicted sediment concentrations in the surf zone and was found to predict the rate of sediment in-filling to an acceptable level of accuracy. It is envisaged that the model will be a useful management tool, especially since it is possible to manipulate river discharges to the mouth.     

Investigation on the Deposition in an Excavated Trough at the East Shore of Jiaozhou Bay, China

- Based on field investigations, this paper analyzes three types of harbour basinns and navigation channel excavated on seabed in Jiaozhou Bay, get a general rule of deposition for excavated trough, it found that pollution is one of crucial factors resulting in the deposition of the excavated trough in the east shore of Jiaozhou Bay. With these results, it predicted the annual deposition thickness for the excavated trough and disclosed the fact that it can't be deposited deadly during one storm. At the same time, with two-dimensional numerical model, it studied the effects of the excavated trough and the reclamation near shore on tidal cureent and said that the excavated trough can decrease the current velocity passing through the trough about 10- 15%, but only limited inside and near the trough and there are no effect on other regions; reclamation can cut off the pollution sources and no obvious effect on the currents of the Jiaozhou Bay. Connecting the deep trough and Cangkou tidal channel with a new