基于ERA-20C再分析数据的中国近海波候研究

基于ERA-20C再分析数据,综合分析了1950—2010年间中国近海的海表风速、风浪、涌浪和混合浪的分布特点。结果表明,中国近海的风场主要受东亚季风控制,在南海南部靠近越南的海域夏季形成7 m/s的风速大值中心,冬季风速则可达9 m/s。风浪场的空间分布特点与风场相似,而受传播效应和浅水效应的影响,涌浪场四季均在吕宋海峡和东海东南部出现波高的大值中心。春夏季节中国近海大部分海域涌浪占优,与风速大值中心对应,夏冬季节南海南部10°N附近存在风浪池。趋势分析结果显示,风速和混合浪有效波高的线性趋势呈现相似的空间分布,南海的风速和波高分别以0.27 cm·s^-1/a和0.74 cm/a的速率显着增加。而渤海分别以-0.49 cm·s^-1/a和-0.85 cm/a的速率显著降低,黄海的变化率分别为-0.43 cm·s^-1/a和-0.79 cm/a。将中国近海风速和波高的年际变化分别与气候指数尼诺3.4进行相关分析,结果显示,冬季大部分海域的相关系数为负,而夏季在南海和东海海域则为正。     

波浪作用下潜标拖缆动力学分析

对三维潜标拖缆在规则波作用下的动力响应进行了研究,首先基于集中质量法给出了缆绳在规则波作用下的控制方程,然后提出了两种不同类型的自由端边界条件:质点型和艇型自由端边界条件,前者把拖体视为作三个自由度线运动的质点,而后者把拖体视为作六自由度运动的艇体,最后用有限差分法进行了数值研究。数值计算结果表明潜标拖缆在规则波的作用下,不仅作近似的简谐振动,还会在横向、垂向产生一个偏移量,该偏移量的大小随浪向角的变化而变化,另外受遭遇频率的影响,振动的幅值也随浪向角的变化而呈现不同的特征。     

斜向和多向不规则波在斜坡堤上的平均越浪量的试验研究

通过三维物理模型试验研究了在斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波在非破碎条件下的平均越浪量与波浪参数及堤参数的关系.着重考察了波浪以小角度(0°~30°)斜向入射时平均越浪量的变化情况,肯定了多向波的越浪量在这一范围内有所谓“小角度斜向增加”的现象,但否定了单向波也具有这一现象.在考察波浪的方向分布影响时发现波浪斜向入射时多向波的越浪量往往要比单向波的大.比较了已有的相关研究成果,给出了适用于混凝土护面和扭工字块体护面斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波的平均越浪量的估算公式.     

A time-dependent numerical model of the mild-slope equation

On the basis of the previous studies, the simplest hyperbolic mild-slope equation has been gained and the linear time-dependent numerical model for the water wave propagation has been established combined with different boundary conditions. Through computing the effective surface displacement and transforming into the real transient wave motion, related wave factors will be calculated. Compared with Lin’s model, analysis shows that calculation stability of the present model is enhanced efficiently, because the truncation errors of this model are only contributed by the dissipation terms, but those of Lin’s model are induced by the convection terms, dissipation terms and source terms. The tests show that the present model succeeds the merit in Lin’s model and the computational program is simpler, the computational time is shorter, and the computational stability is enhanced efficiently. The present model has the capability of simulating transient wave motion by correctly predicting at the speed of wave propagation, which is important for the real-time forecast of the arrival time of surface waves generated in the deep sea. The model is validated against analytical solution for wave diffraction and experimental data for combined wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope. Good agreements are obtained. The model can be applied to the theory research an d engineering applications about the wave propagation in a biggish area.     

Effects of winds,tides and storm surges on ocean surface waves in the Sea of Japan

Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyō, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.     

A method of determining dominant wave direction from multiparameter hydrological gauge measurements and its application

Multi-parameter hydrological gauge is an instrument developed by the South China Sea Institute of Oceanology,the Chinese Academy of Sciences to make simultaneous observation of current, wave, tide, water temperature and conductivity.By using the well-known "PUV method", the directional wave spectrum can be calculated and the dominant wave direction is then obtained.The comparison of the dominant wave directions derived from the measurements using both the multi-parameter hydrological gauge and the MARK Ⅱ "Wave-Rider" directional buoy shows that the dominant wave directions derived from the two kinds of measurements are in good agreement.     

太平洋东边界波浪输运

通过计算2000年涌浪指标(swell index)的全球分布,发现太平洋东边界赤道附近区域存在涌浪池.利用ECMWF再分析波浪资料,计算出2000年全球月平均波浪体积输运.比较2000年全球月平均波浪体积输运和2000年QUICKSCAT月平均风场,发现在赤道太平洋东边界涌浪池区域内的波浪输运方向和风向存在很大的差别,两者方向相差大约90°.这进一步验证了该地区涌浪池存在的真实性.研究发现,赤道太平洋东边界涌浪主要来源于北太平洋和南太平洋的西风带对应的海区.在涌浪池区域内分别在2.5°S和2.5°N取两条边界(边界起点为125°W,终点为美洲大陆西边界),计算通过这两条边界进入赤道区域涌浪的Stokes体积净输运量.结果表明,不同月份通过南、北两条边界波浪的净输运量与当月南、北太平洋西风带的风浪强度密切相关.同时指出了,涌浪的体积输运将会对大洋环流系统产生潜在的重要影响.     

Distribution of the nonlinear random ocean wave period

Because of the intrinsic difficulty in determining distributions for wave periods, previous studies on wave period distribution models have not taken nonlinearity into account and have not performed well in terms of describing and statistically analyzing the probability density distribution of ocean waves. In this study, a statistical model of random waves is developed using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics. In addition, a new nonlinear probability distribution function for the wave period is presented with the parameters of spectral density width and nonlinear wave steepness, which is more reasonable as a physical mechanism. The magnitude of wave steepness determines the intensity of the nonlinear effect, while the spectral width only changes the energy distribution. The wave steepness is found to be an important parameter in terms of not only dynamics but also statistics. The value of wave steepness reflects the degree that the wave period distribution skews from the Cauchy distribution, and it also describes the variation in the distribution function, which resembles that of the wave surface elevation distribution and wave height distribution. We found that the distribution curves skew leftward and upward as the wave steepness increases. The wave period observations for the SZFII-1 buoy, made off the coast of Weihai (37°27.6′ N, 122°15.1′ E), China, are used to verify the new distribution. The coefficient of the correlation between the new distribution and the buoy data at different spectral widths (ν=0.3−0.5) is within the range of 0.968 6 to 0.991 7. In addition, the Longuet-Higgins (1975) and Sun (1988) distributions and the new distribution presented in this work are compared. The validations and comparisons indicate that the new nonlinear probability density distribution fits the buoy measurements better than the Longuet-Higgins and Sun distributions do. We believe that adoption of the new wave period distribution would improve traditional statistical wave theory.     

Radar cross section analysis of marine targets using a combining method of physical optics/geometric optics and a Monte-Carlo simulation

In this paper, the radar cross section of flat plates on ocean surfaces is statistically investigated. A combining method of physical optics and geometric optics is applied to establish an effective backscattering analysis procedure. This method is a high-frequency analysis method originally derived from a simplified Stratton-Chu integral equation, assuming that the radar is far away from the target so that Kirchhoff approximation is valid. A Monte-Carlo simulation method is adopted to statistically analyze the effects of undulated ocean surfaces. The ocean surfaces are randomly generated by Pierson-Moskowitz ocean wave spectrum and a directional distribution function. Numerical investigations are carried out for flat plates, with the same height and width but with different inclined angles, on ocean surfaces of various significant wave heights.     

Particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water

The paper presents a numerical method for calculating the particle trajectories of nonlinear gravity waves in deep water. Particle trajectories, mass-transport velocity and Lagrangian wave period can be accurately determined by the proposed method. The high success rate of the proposed method is examined by comparing the present results with those of (a) Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1986, 1987. Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 173, 683-707 and (b) Lagrangian moments and mass transport in Stokes waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 179, 547-555. It is shown that the dimensionless mass-transport velocity can exceed 10% for large waves, and the Lagrangian wave period is much larger than the Eulerian wave period for large waves.