Wave breaking on turbulent energy budget in the ocean surface mixed layer

As an important physical process at the air-sea interface, wave movement and breaking have a significant effect on the ocean surface mixed layer （OSML）. When breaking waves occur at the ocean surface, turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） is input downwards, and a sublayer is formed near the surface and turbulence vertical mixing is intensively enhanced. A one-dimensional ocean model including the Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure equations was employed in our research on variations in turbulent energy budget within OSML. The influence of wave breaking could be introduced into the model by modifying an existing surface boundary condition of the TKE equation and specifying its input. The vertical diffusion and dissipation of TKE were effectively enhanced in the sublayer when wave breaking was considered. Turbulent energy dissipated in the sublayer was about 92.0% of the total depth-integrated dissipated TKE, which is twice higher than that of non-wave breaking. The shear production of TKE decreased by 3.5% because the mean flow fields tended to be uniform due to wave-enhanced turbulent mixing. As a result, a new local equilibrium between diffusion and dissipation of TKE was reached in the wave-enhanced layer. Below the sublayer, the local equilibrium between shear production and dissipation of TKE agreed with the conclusion drawn from the classical law-of-the-wall （Craig and Banner, 1994）.     

基于Barnes滤波原理的降水场客观分析及尺度分离

基于Barnes滤波原理（又称高斯加权客观分析）,在进行网格点插值的同时,通过选择适当的滤波参数C、G滤去原始场中的短波噪音,使分析结果平稳光滑;另外可通过它构成一带通滤波器,根据实际需要分离出影响天气过程的各种次天气尺度,达到尺度分离的目的。以全国160个国家基准代表站1954—2006年共53a的年平均降水场为例作实例分析,并同用Grads内插函数（Oacres函数）、九点平滑函数（Smth9函数）的绘图结果进行对比分析,结果表明客观分析结果同Grads内插平滑分析结果基本相似,都能反映出我国53a年平均降水场从东南向西北逐渐递减的趋势且与实际情况相符,降水场高值中心位于长江流域及以南的华南等地区,低值中心位于黄河流域以北的广大西部地区。取不同的参数C和G得到的尺度分离后的带通滤波值,既抑止了长波,又抑制了短波,达到较好的尺度分离效果。     

面波频散反演的数值模拟

大量的数值模拟表明,SVD和LSQRD在面波频散网格反演两步法中的应用效果都很好.但SVD可以用分辨矩阵、信息矩阵和协方差矩阵对解估计进行数学上客观有效的评价;而对于大型稀疏方程组的求解,LSQRD确是一种内存需求小、计算速度快以及分辨抗噪能力都较强的算法 .在现有计算机运算速度较快、内存可以扩充较大的条件下,实测数据量不很大时,应采用SVD算法进行线性反演.     

Stochastic bivariate time series models of waves in the North Sea and their application in simulation-based design

In this paper, we present and evaluate three long-term wave models for application in simulation-based design of ships and marine structures. Designers and researchers often rely on historical weather data as a source for ocean area characteristics based on hindcast datasets or in-situ measurements. The limited access and size of historical datasets reduces repeatability of simulations and analyses, making it difficult to assess the sampling variability of performance and loads on marine vessels and structures. Markov, VAR and VARMA wave models, producing independent long-term time series of significant wave height (H_s) and spectral peak period (T_p), is presented as possible solutions to this problem. The models are tested and compared by addressing how the models affect interpretation of design concepts and the ability to replicate statistical and physical characteristics of the wave process. Our results show that the VAR and VARMA models perform sufficiently in describing design performance, but does not capture the physical process fully. The Markov model is found to perform worst of the tested models in the applied tests, especially for measures covering several consecutive sea states.     

Semi-analytical solution for the water wave diffraction by arrays of truncated circular cylinders in front of a vertical wall

The present study investigates the combined wave field that is induced by the continuous interaction of plane waves with an array of truncated circular cylinders in front of a rigid wall. The long-term goal of the study is the investigation of possible increase in the efficiency of cylindrical Wave Energy Converters (WECs) by putting in the vicinity of the array a barrier to propagation, a wall, that could assist the reflection of the incoming waves. The main task is to develop a generic solution method that is free of conceptual simplifications employed, e.g. by the method of images and the assumption of “pure” wave reflection. To cope with the set task, the proposed method relies on the semi-analytical formulation of the velocity potentials, while the solution is sought by combined expressions that involve polar and elliptical harmonics. The wall is represented as an elliptical cylinder with zero semi-minor axis. This assumption has eventually a beneficial effect to the underlying formulation given that it simplifies significantly the expansions of the involved diffraction potentials.     

Effect of wave nonlinearity on fatigue damage and extreme responses of a semi-submersible floating wind turbine

Floating wind turbine has been the highlight in offshore wind industry lately. There has been great effort on developing highly sophisticated numerical model to better understand its hydrodynamic behaviour. A engineering-practical method to study the nonlinear wave effects on floating wind turbine has been recently developed. Based on the method established, the focus of this paper is to quantify the wave nonlinearity effect due to nonlinear wave kinematics by comparing the structural responses of floating wind turbine when exposed to irregular linear Airy wave and fully nonlinear wave. Critical responses and fatigue damage are studied in operational conditions and short-term extreme values are predicted in extreme conditions respectively. In the operational condition, wind effects are dominating the mean value and standard deviation of most responses except floater heave motion. The fatigue damage at the tower base is dominated by wind effects. The fatigue damage for the mooring line is more influenced by wind effects for conditions with small wave and wave effects for conditions with large wave. The wave nonlinearity effect becomes significant for surge and mooring line tension for large waves while floater heave, pitch motion, tower base bending moment and pontoon axial force are less sensitive to the nonlinear wave effect. In the extreme condition, linear wave theory underestimates wave elevation, floater surge motion and mooring line tension compared with fully nonlinear wave theory while quite close results are predicted for other responses.     

多向不规则波浪作用下群墩结构上爬高的计算研究

波浪的方向分布对波浪的传播及其与工程结构物的作用都具有明显影响,目前现有的研究大多是基于单向波浪进行的。为了研究方向分布对群墩结构上的爬高影响,基于规则波浪与群墩作用的理论解,结合多向不规则波浪的造波方法,建立了多向不规则波浪与群墩作用的计算模型,同时进行了物理模型试验对模型的有效性进行了验证。系统地对群墩周围及表面上的波浪爬高进行了计算分析,结果表明,方向分布对波浪爬高具有较大的影响,且不同位置处的影响并不相同,在实际的工程设计中如果按照单向波浪计算,可能低估或者高估群墩周围的爬高。     

Study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs based on a shock-capturing Boussinesq model

This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter.     

Characteristics of breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile

The substructures of offshore wind turbines are subjected to extreme breaking irregular wave forces. The present study is focused on investigating breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile using a computational fluid dynamics (CFD) based numerical model. The breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile mounted on a slope are investigated with a numerical wave tank. The experimental and numerical irregular free surface elevations are compared in the frequency-domain for the different locations in the vicinity of the cylinder. A numerical analysis is performed for different wave steepness cases to understand the influence of wave steepness on the breaking irregular wave loads. The wave height transformation and energy level evolution during the wave shoaling and wave breaking processes is investigated. The higher-frequency components generated during the wave breaking process are observed to play a significant role in initiating the secondary force peaks. The free surface elevation skewness and spectral bandwidth during the wave transformation process are analysed and an investigation is performed to establish a correlation of these parameters with the breaking irregular wave forces. The role of the horizontal wave-induced water particle velocity at the free surface and free surface pressure in determining the breaking wave loads is highlighted. The higher-frequency components in the velocity and pressure spectrum are observed to be significant in influencing the secondary peaks in the breaking wave force spectrum.