太平洋波高熵的分布变化规律研究

使用1992年IO月到1998年12月连续共75个月、230个重复周期的Topex／Poseidon卫星高度计有效波高资料，对南、北太平洋波高熵的空间分布特征和时间变化规律进行了研究。统计分析了太平洋波高熵的多年的空间分布特征和多年各月的时间变化规律。结果表明，太平洋波高熵呈现出中间低、南北高的马鞍形空间分布特征和明显季节变化的规律，与太平洋的平均有效波高和气候分布特征和变化规律相一致。给出了南北太平洋模拟波高熵的计算公式及计算稳定性检验。     

Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.     

A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term Wave Series

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.     

Wave Loads and Protective Techniques of An On-Shore Wave Power Device

In this paper, the extreme wave loads on an on-shore wave power device are investigated. First, boundary element method is applied to solve the three dimensional potential problem based on the small amplitude wave assumption. Then the motion of the Oscillating Water Column (OWC) inside the device and its laods on the device are calculated in time domain. Several protective techniques often applied are simulated by changing the constraint of the upper end of the chamber of the device. Numerical results are used to judge the effectiveness of these techniques. The investigation shows that damping can not effectively restrain the motion of OWC when the period of incident wave is long, which may cause dangerous loads on the structure. The shut chamber can effectively restrain the motion of OWC, but alternatively cause high pressure in the chamber. A Contracting opening with a Taper (CT) can exhaust a great amount of kinetic energy of OWC, and significantly decrease the loads. It is a promising protective tec     

一种基于Curvelet变换的合成孔径雷达海洋内波图像的斑点噪声抑制方法

合成孔径雷达是海洋内波研究中最重要的工具之一。雷达图像中的斑点噪声会严重降低图像的质量,这一问题在处理和分析信号较弱的二模态内波信号和上升型内波信号时极为明显。合成孔径雷达图像中的海洋内孤立波的信号具有明显的尺度性和方向性。同时,curvelet变换作为一种同时具备尺度分辨率和方向分辨率的数学变换,能够对一幅雷达图像在不同尺度、不同方向和不同位置上进行分析。本文给出了一个基于curvelet变换的合成孔径雷达海洋内孤立波图像的斑点噪声抑制方法。该方法可简述为：(1)对一幅合成孔径雷达海洋内孤立波图像进行curvelet变换,获得curvelet系数;(2)分别仅仅保留一个尺度的系数,将其它尺度的系数置为零,利用处理之后的系数分别重建图像,得到仅仅用一个尺度的系数重建的图像;(3)分别计算上一步中得到的图像的均方差,根据波浪理论,图像的方差代表能量,方差越大则能量越大,以此可以确定内波信息集中的尺度;(4)在每个尺度下,分别计算每个方向的curvelet系数矩阵的平均值,以此确定内孤立波信号集中的方向;(5)在上两步工作的基础上,仅仅保留内波信号集中的尺度和方向的系数,而将其它尺度和方向的系数置为0,得到一幅提取主波信息的图像;(6)将上一步得到的提取主波信息的图像加回到原始图像中,从而达到增强波浪信息并抑制斑点噪声的目的。大量的实验验证表明,该方法不仅能有效地压制斑点噪声,而且能有效地增强波浪信号。     

Experiments on Transformation and Run-Up of Wave Trains

—This paper details experiments undertaken in the UK Coastal Research Facility(CRF)at Hy-draulics Research(HR).Wallingford.on transformation and run-up of wave trains.The purpose of theseexperiments is to provide verification data for numerical models of wave transformation in shoaling.surfand swash zones.This is the kind of data that flume experiments are unable to provide.and is collected inthe highly controlled environment of CRF where extrinsic factors present in the field are not an issue.Theexperiments concerning wave trains are undertaken by use of existing wave generation software.and therun-up measurements are made with large experimental run-up gauges.     

小直径组合桩的波浪力实验分析

本文给出小直径孤立桩、两个桩和2×2个桩的波浪作用力实验结果。在波浪水槽中以0°,45°,90°三个波浪方向测量了各桩所受的纵向力和横向力,文中讨论了组合桩之间的干扰效应,给出了干扰系数随KC数和桩距的变化。     

High Frequency Current Fluctuations and Cross-shelf Flows around the Pycnocline near the Shelf Break in the East China Sea

Relation between internal waves with short time scale and density distribution near the shelf break in the East China Sea is studied utilizing moored current meters, thermometers and conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) casts. A well developed pycnocline was frequently observed around 150–200 m depth near the shelf break accompanied with the development of internal waves with short time scale. During the cruise in May 1998, the intensified internal wave motion with short time scale and the distinct offshore flow were observed just below the lower pycnocline, which shoaled and extended above the shelf area. It is suggested that vertical mixing generated by amplified internal waves would produce cross-shelf ageostophic density current around the pycnocline. During the cruise in May 1999, on the other hand, the lower pycnocline was located offshore below the shelf break, and the internal wave motion was amplified just above the lower pycnocline. In this case, the offshore flow should be generated above the lower pycnocline, but vertical profiles of current velocity were not obtained because acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data were not available around the lower pycnocline.     

Wave Height Transformation and Set-up Between a A Submerged Permeable Breakwater and A Seawall

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.