Long-term analysis of extreme wave characteristics based on the SWAN hindcasts over the Black Sea using two different wind fields

The long-term variations of wave characteristics in the Black Sea are evaluated by using a third-generation wave model (Simulating WAves Nearshore, SWAN), forced by the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) ERA-Interim and National Centers for Environmental Prediction/Climate Forecast System Reanalysis (NCEP/CFSR) wind data, covering the period of 1979−2018. The model results were calibrated and validated with buoy measurements at seven stations along the Black Sea. The comparative study shows that the CFSR dataset predicted slightly greater significant wave heights than the ERA-Interim dataset. The greatest difference between two datasets in terms of wave characteristics was found in the northeastern part of the Black Sea. The long-term averages and the variations of long-term trends for wave characteristics show that southwestern part of the Black Sea was characterized by greater significant wave heights, longer mean wave periods and storm durations, and lower variability, while the northeastern part of the basin was characterized by lower significant wave heights, shorter mean wave periods and storm durations, and higher variability. The long-term trends indicate that the wave characteristics over the 40-year period are more likely to be exposed to higher variation on the eastern part of the Black Sea than the western part of the basin.     

9210工程卫星广域网的信道共享技术

主要介绍了9210工程卫星广域中使用的随机接入技术—ALOHA的几个方案的工作原理     

浅水波浪数值模型SWAN的原理及应用综述

概述了模拟海岸、河口的浅水波浪数值模型研究现状、存在的问题以及用能量平衡方程预报海浪的发展历史。介绍了基于当代最新波浪理论研究成果的第三代浅水波浪数值模型SWAN模型,对模型的适用性、数值特性、功能及局限性进行了阐述。介绍动谱平衡方程数学模型、方程离散要求、边界条件的处理和源项(包括能量输入、损耗及波与波之间非线性相互作用)的处理方法,重点介绍三相波非线性相互作用。模拟海安湾有效波高、波周期场,并分析波与波之间非线性相互作用对波浪要素预报的影响,最后对SWAN模型的应用前景和研究趋势进行了展望。     

Modelling of wave damping at Guyana mud coast

The Guyana coastal system is characterized by very thick deposits of Amazon mud and high mud concentrations in its coastal waters. The mud deposits can be quite soft and may liquefy under incoming waves. Subsequently, the liquefied mud damps the incoming waves effectively. This paper presents a simple model to predict wave attenuation over soft (fluid) mud beds. This model is based on the two-layer approach by Gade [Gade, H.G., 1958, Effects of a non-rigid, impermeable bottom on plane surface waves in shallow water, Journal of Marine Research, 16 (2) 61–82.] which is implemented in the standard version of the state-of-the-art wave-prediction model SWAN. Input to the mud wave damping module consists of the extension, thickness, density and viscosity of the liquefied (fluid) mud layer.     

Numerical Simulation of Tsunamis on the Tamil Nadu Coast of India

The State of Tamil Nadu was the most affected region in India during the tsunami of December 26, 2004, in the Indian Ocean, in terms of loss of life and damage. Numerical simulation was made for three tsunamis, the December 26, 2004, event, the Sumatra tsunami of 1833, and a hypothetical tsunami originating in the Andaman-Nicobar region. Since inundation is not included in these simulations, the tsunami amplitudes were deduced at the 10m depth contour in the ocean, off several locations on the coast of Tamil Nadu. The computed amplitudes appear reasonable as compared to known tsunami amplitudes from past events.     

基于Boussinesq方程近岸波浪演变的数值研究

首先对目前描述近岸波浪传播变形的数学模型进行了回顾与总结;对不同数学模型的特点、适用范围和发展情况进行了阐述与对比。应用基于Boussinesq方程的Coulwave模式针对几个经典实验地形进行了数值实验,数值结果和实验实测数据吻合较好。此外,分别采用不同的近岸波浪模型模拟了某渔港附近波浪的传播变形,结果表明:当考虑波浪的折射、绕射、反射联合作用时,Coulwave模式计算结果明显较缓坡方程及SWAN模型计算结果更加合理。     

长兴岛海区波流相互作用数值模拟研究

波和流是近岸海区的主要动力因素。应用二维潮流数学模型和最新第三代近岸海浪模式SWAN,建立了非结构网格下二维情况近岸波流耦合作用数学模型。时间离散采用欧拉向前格式,空间离散采用有限体积法显式格式。通过将波浪场及潮流场进行迭代耦合计算,实现了对波流共同作用下波浪场和潮流场的数值模拟。将模型应用于矩形海湾实验和李孟国数模实验等理想地形以及大连长兴岛海区实际复杂地形算例,并用现场实测资料对计算结果进行验证,结果表明:耦合结果与实测结果吻合良好,并且要优于未耦合的结果。     

A study of dissipation of wind-waves by mud at Cassino Beach,Brazil: Prediction and inversion

The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May–June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wave model. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations; rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal distribution of mud based on echo-soundings. The dissipation of waves by a non-rigid bottom is represented in the wave model by treating the mud layer as a viscous fluid. Applied for 431 time periods, the model without this type of dissipation has a strong tendency to overpredict nearshore wave energy, except during a period of large storm waves. Two model variations which include this dissipation have a modest tendency to underpredict the nearshore wave energy. An inversion methodology is developed and applied to infer an alternate mud distribution which, when used with the wave model, yields the observed waveheights.     

SWAN模式对黄渤海海域浪高的模拟能力试验

SWAN模式即第三代浅水波浪数值预报模式,不仅能仔细考虑能量平衡方程式中的各项源函数,而且对近海海域(浅水)以及复杂地形海域的浪高有很好的模拟能力。本文在简述我们从青岛海洋大学“九.五”国家重点科技攻关项目中引进的SWAN模式的基础上,详细论述了T213和MM5两种风场资料在SWAN模式中的应用及对比验证。发现MM5海平面上空10m处风场资料优于T213的1000hPa风场资料,用在SWAN模式对黄渤海海域浪高模拟中预报结果较好。     

太湖不同湖区风浪的季节变化特征

为明晰太湖风浪的空间分布及季节变化,在湖心区设立波浪观测站,利用其记录的波浪数据证明SWAN模型能够较好地模拟太湖风浪.基于所建模型,对2013年自然风场条件下太湖不同湖区风浪季节动态进行模拟分析,结果表明:受岸线、地形和岛屿等地理因素影响,大太湖的风浪总是最强,其有效波高均值为0.523 m;而东太湖风浪最小,有效波高均值为0.305 m.受盛行风场季节变化影响,太湖春、夏季有效波高均值明显大于秋、冬季.太湖波浪的能量主要来源于风场,其有效波高随风速增大而增大,两者呈极显著正相关.而风向则可以通过改变风区长度来影响风浪生消.在偏东风作用下,太湖湖西区的风浪大于东部湖区;而受盛行于冬季的偏北风影响,太湖南部水域风浪要大于北部.同时,太湖风浪的时空分布特征是造成太湖水质参数、沉积物和水生植物空间分布差异的重要原因之一.