A study of dissipation of wind-waves by mud at Cassino Beach,Brazil: Prediction and inversion

The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May–June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wave model. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations; rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal distribution of mud based on echo-soundings. The dissipation of waves by a non-rigid bottom is represented in the wave model by treating the mud layer as a viscous fluid. Applied for 431 time periods, the model without this type of dissipation has a strong tendency to overpredict nearshore wave energy, except during a period of large storm waves. Two model variations which include this dissipation have a modest tendency to underpredict the nearshore wave energy. An inversion methodology is developed and applied to infer an alternate mud distribution which, when used with the wave model, yields the observed waveheights.     

SWAN模式对黄渤海海域浪高的模拟能力试验

SWAN模式即第三代浅水波浪数值预报模式,不仅能仔细考虑能量平衡方程式中的各项源函数,而且对近海海域(浅水)以及复杂地形海域的浪高有很好的模拟能力。本文在简述我们从青岛海洋大学“九.五”国家重点科技攻关项目中引进的SWAN模式的基础上,详细论述了T213和MM5两种风场资料在SWAN模式中的应用及对比验证。发现MM5海平面上空10m处风场资料优于T213的1000hPa风场资料,用在SWAN模式对黄渤海海域浪高模拟中预报结果较好。     

太湖不同湖区风浪的季节变化特征

为明晰太湖风浪的空间分布及季节变化,在湖心区设立波浪观测站,利用其记录的波浪数据证明SWAN模型能够较好地模拟太湖风浪.基于所建模型,对2013年自然风场条件下太湖不同湖区风浪季节动态进行模拟分析,结果表明:受岸线、地形和岛屿等地理因素影响,大太湖的风浪总是最强,其有效波高均值为0.523 m;而东太湖风浪最小,有效波高均值为0.305 m.受盛行风场季节变化影响,太湖春、夏季有效波高均值明显大于秋、冬季.太湖波浪的能量主要来源于风场,其有效波高随风速增大而增大,两者呈极显著正相关.而风向则可以通过改变风区长度来影响风浪生消.在偏东风作用下,太湖湖西区的风浪大于东部湖区;而受盛行于冬季的偏北风影响,太湖南部水域风浪要大于北部.同时,太湖风浪的时空分布特征是造成太湖水质参数、沉积物和水生植物空间分布差异的重要原因之一.     

非结构网格模型在闽东沿海台风浪模拟中的应用

基于加密的非结构三角网格,以Holland模型风场叠加美国国家环境预报中心（NCEP）海面风场构造的合成风场驱动第三代浅水波浪数值模型（SWAN）对2017年影响闽东海域的“纳沙”和“泰利”台风过程进行数值模拟,并运用浮标站的实测数据对模拟结果进行验证.结果表明,模型计算的风速、有效波高与实测值符合较好,合成风场能较好地模拟台风期间的风速变化过程,SWAN模式能够合理地再现闽东沿海台风浪的时空分布特征.由模拟结果可见：台风“纳沙”中心越过台湾岛进入台湾海峡北部海面,受海峡地形的约束,其波浪场呈NE—SW向椭圆状分布,北部海域的浪高大于南部,闽东沿海遍布大范围的巨浪到狂浪;超强台风“泰利”未登陆闽东,当其台风中心与大陆的距离最近时,海面波浪场分布与台风风场结构一致,台风中心附近海域为14 m以上的怒涛区,巨浪遍布于闽东沿海.研究结果可为闽东沿海台风浪灾害预警和应急管理提供技术支撑和参考依据.     

Investigation of wave characteristics in a semi-enclosed bay based on SWAN model validated with buoys and ADP-observed currents

In this study, the simulating waves nearshore (SWAN) model with a locally refined curvilinear grid system was constructed to simulate waves in Jervis Bay and the neighbouring ocean of Australia, with the aim of examining the wave characteristics in an area with special topography and practical importance. This model was verified by field observations from buoys and acoustic Doppler profilers (ADPs). The model precisions were validated for both wind-generated waves and open-ocean swells. We present an approach with which to convert ADP-observed current data from near the bottom into the significant wave height. Our approach is deduced from the Fourier transform technique and the linear wave theory. The results illustrate that the location of the bay entrance is important because it allows the swells in the dominant direction to propagate into the bay despite the narrowness of the bay entrance. The wave period T p is also strongly related to the wave direction in the semi-enclosed bay. The Tp is great enough along the entire propagating direction from the bay entrance to the top of the bay, and the largest Tp appears along the north-west coast, which is the end tip of the swells’ propagation.     

Influence of bathymetric fluctuations on coastal storm surge

Natural events constantly alter nearshore bathymetric properties. Hurricanes particularly affect bathymetry as they pass over a body of water. To compute an accurate forecast or recreate a hurricane's effects through hindcasting techniques, an operational bathymetry data set must be known in advance. However, obtaining and maintaining current and accurate bathymetric data can be costly and difficult to manage. In this paper we examine the extent to which variations in nearshore bathymetry affect the storm surge at the coast. A common question for wave and surge modeling is, “how good is the bathymetric data?” If we can allow for a range of fluctuations in the bathymetry without significantly adjusting the results of the surge predictions, we can potentially save months of field work and millions of dollars. A one-dimensional (1D) analytical solution for waves and water level is developed for initial testing. In the 1D case we find that as long as the amplitudes of the bathymetric fluctuations are less than 60% of the original depth, the surge at the coast is within ± 10% of the surge generated on the initial bottom slope. If the fluctuation produces a hole, a deepening of the local bathymetry, within 80% of the local water depth, the coastal storm surge calculated is still within 10% of the unperturbed value computed for bottom slopes shallower than 1:20. In addition, we find there is an optimum distance offshore for each sloped profile that corresponds to a depth between 25 and 40 m, beyond which the effects of bathymetric fluctuations begin to decrease. A coupled 2D modeling system is implemented to test our hypothesis along a realistic coastline. After selecting three study sites, we vary the bathymetry at the selected locations by ± 20%. Consistent with the 1D tests, the storm surge at the shoreline varies by less than 5%.     

Evaluation of Diffraction Predictability in Two Phase Averaged Wave Models

Two different methods for incorporating diffraction effect into wave action balance equation based coastal spectral wave models, WABED and SWAN, are discussed and evaluated with respect to their formulations, numerical implementations, and modeling capabilities. Both models were run to simulate the wave transformation through a gap between two infinitely long breakwaters and that across an elliptical shoal observed in laboratory studies, with the emphasis laid on the diffraction induced by either obstacles or wave amplitude variations. Calculations of WABED were compared with Som-merfeld's analytical solutions, experimental observations and SWAN simulations. It is shown that both methods can predict reasonably wave difiraction for the two cases studied herein, and a fairly better performance is provided by WABED for stronger difiraction case.     

近岸流对波浪传播影响的数值分析

使用近岸波浪模型SWAN计算存在沿岸流和离岸流时的近岸波浪传播。先设离岸流u=0m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀沿岸流的流速和梯度对波高传播的影响;再设沿岸流v=0.5m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀离岸流的流速和梯度对波能高传播的影响。从模拟中得到,近岸波浪传播受沿岸流、离岸流的流速和梯度影响时,波高的变化规律。     

台湾海峡及厦门湾台风浪场数值模拟

本文利用国际上先进的第三代海浪模式SWAN,在充分考虑风能量输入、白浪效应、水深诱导的波浪破碎、底摩擦、波-波间的非线性相互作用等物理过程。以0604号台风"碧利斯"为例,通过嵌套计算方式,模拟了台湾海峡及厦门湾台风浪场的分布特征。将数值模拟结果与浮标测站实测资料对比分析,结果表明台风浪高模拟值与实际台风资料相符较好,可以为该海域台风浪的模拟提供较好的参考。     

台风“灿鸿”影响下海浪的数值模拟研究

台风是影响中国黄东海的强天气现象,其引起的强风、巨浪和台风增水严重威胁着沿海地区人民的生命与财产安全。本文以海浪模式SWAN（Simulating Waves Nearshore）与区域海洋模式ROMS（Regional Ocean Modeling System）为基础,构建了中国黄东海海域在201509号台风“灿鸿”影响下的海浪-海洋耦合模式。通过浮标与Jason-2高度计有效波高数据验证了模式结果的准确性。进行了敏感性实验分析,对比耦合（ROMS+SWAN）与非耦合（SWAN）下以及使用不同地形数据（ETOPO1、ETOPO2、GEBCO）、不同物理参数化方案（风能输入、白冠耗散、底摩擦耗散）下的模拟结果差异。结果发现在射阳与前三岛浮标处,使用GEBCO地形数据（15弧秒间隔）下的模拟效果更好且稳定。在空间分布上,台风中心附近的浪流相互作用显著,在其前进方向右侧表现为耦合的有效波高值低于非耦合有效波高值,差值最高可达1米。选择不同风输入与耗散项方案时的模拟差异主要发生在最大波高处,选择不同的风能输入与白冠耗散项方案带来的差异接近0.4米,而底摩擦项方案选择不同带来的差异接近1米。因而在模拟实际的海况时,需要综合考虑这些因素带来的影响,才能达到SWAN海浪模型最好的海浪模拟效果。