A rational approach to seepage flow effects on bottom friction beneath random waves

The bottom friction beneath random waves is predicted taking into account the effect of seepage flow. This is achieved by using wave friction factors for rough turbulent, smooth turbulent and laminar flow valid for regular waves together with a modified Shields parameter which includes the effect of seepage flow. Examples using data typical to field conditions are included to illustrate the approach. The analytical results can be used to make assessment of seepage effects on the bottom friction based on available wave statistics. Generally, it is recommended that a stochastic approach should be used rather than using the rms values in an otherwise deterministic approach.     

Biogeochemical patterns in the Atlantic Inflow through the Strait of Gibraltar

The effects of tidal forcing on the biogeochemical patterns of surface water masses flowing through the Strait of Gibraltar are studied by monitoring the Atlantic Inflow (AI) during both spring and neap tides. Three main phenomena are defined depending on the strength of the outflowing phase predicted over the Camarinal Sill: non-wave events (a very frequent phenomenon during the whole year); type I Internal wave events (a very energetic event, occurring during spring tides); and type II Internal wave events (less intense, occurring during neap tides).During neap tides, a non-wave event comprising oligotrophic open-ocean water from the Gulf of Cádiz is the most frequent and clearly dominant flow through the Strait. In this tidal condition, the inflow of North Atlantic Central Water (NACW) provides the main nutrient input to the surface layer of the Alboran Sea, supplying almost 70% of total annual nitrate transport to the Mediterranean basin. A low percentage of active and large phytoplankton cells and low average concentrations of chlorophyll (0.3–0.4 mg m⁻³) are found in this tidal phase. Around 50% of total annual phytoplankton biomass transport into the Mediterranean Sea through the Strait presents these oligotrophic characteristics.In contrast, during spring tides, patches of water with high chlorophyll levels (0.7–1 mg m⁻³) arrive intermittently, and these are recorded concurrently with the passage of internal waves coming from the Camarinal Sill (type I internal wave events). When large internal waves are arrested over the Camarinal Sill this implies strong interfacial mixing and the probable concurrent injection of coastal waters into the main channel of the Strait. These processes result in a mixed water column in the AI and can account for around 30% of total annual nitrate transport into the Mediterranean basin. Associated with type I internal wave events there is a regular inflow of large and active phytoplankton cells, transported in waters with relatively high nutrient concentrations, which constitutes a significant supply of planktonic resources to the pelagic ecosystem of the Alboran Sea (almost 30% of total annual phytoplankton biomass transport).     

Internal solitary waves shoaling onto a shelf: Comparisons of weakly-nonlinear and fully nonlinear models for hyperbolic-tangent stratifications

In this study the evolution of internal solitary waves shoaling onto a shelf is considered. The results of high resolution two-dimensional numerical simulations of the incompressible Euler equations are compared with the predictions of several weakly-nonlinear shoaling models of the Korteweg–de Vries family including the Gardner equation and the cubic regularized long wave (or Benjamin–Bona–Mahoney) equation. Wave models in both physical x–t space and in s–x space are considered where s is a commonly used characteristic time variable. The effects of rotation, background currents and damping are ignored. The Boussinesq and rigid lid approximations are also used. The shoaling internal solitary waves generally fission into several waves. Reflected waves are negligible in the cases considered here. Several hyperbolic tangent stratifications are considered with and without a critical point. Among the equations in x–t space the cubic regularized long wave equation gives the best predictions. The Gardner equation in s–x space gives the best predictions of the shape of the leading waves on the shelf, but for many stratifications it predicts a propagation speed that is too large.     

珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究

为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。     

伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝特征及影响因素研究

泥沙絮凝对河口细颗粒泥沙运动过程起着极其重要的作用。本文通过LISST-100激光粒度仪等仪器实测伶仃洋河口2013年洪季悬浮泥沙絮凝体现场粒径及水动力、泥沙条件,结合实验室悬沙粒径分析,研究大小潮期间伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝特征,探讨紊动剪切强度、含沙量、盐度分层及波浪等因素对伶仃洋河口泥沙絮凝的影响。结果表明:伶仃洋河口水体中现场粒径平均值为148.53 μm,大于实验室悬沙分散粒径36.74 μm,河口絮凝现象明显;沉速与有效密度、粒径呈正相关,絮团平均有效密度为153.49 kg/m3,平均沉速达1.13 mm/s;小潮时絮团平均粒径大于大潮,垂向上表底层絮团粒径小、中层大,中底层絮团沉速大于表层。伶仃洋河口水动力、泥沙条件是影响其泥沙絮凝的重要因素,低剪切强度（小于5 s-1）、低含沙量（小于50 mg/L）及高体积浓度有利于细颗粒泥沙之间的相互碰撞,促进絮凝作用;当剪切强度与颗粒间碰撞强度高于絮团所能承受的强度时,絮团易破碎分解成小絮团或更细的泥沙颗粒;伶仃洋河口盐度层化引起的泥沙捕获现象增大中层泥沙体积浓度,有利于中层絮凝体的发育;观测期相对较大的波浪增强水体紊动,增大了水体细颗粒泥沙的碰撞几率,表层絮团粒径随波高峰值的出现而增大。     

New Numerical Scheme for Simulation of Hyperbolic Mild-Slope Equation

The original hyperbolic mild-slope equation can effectively take into account the combined effects of wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection, but does not consider the nonlinear effect of waves, and the existing numerical schemes for it show some deficiencies. Based on the original hyperbolic mild-slope equation, a nonlinear dispersion relation is introduced in present paper to effectively take the nonlinear effect of waves into account and a new numerical scheme is proposed. The weakly nonlinear dispersion relation and the improved numerical scheme are applied to the simulation of wave transformation over an elliptic shoal. Numerical tests show that the improvement of the numerical scheme makes efficient the solution to the hyperbolic mild-slope equation. A comparison of numerical results with experimental data indicates that the results obtained by use of the new scheme are satisfactory.     

Condensed hyperelements method of non-vertical consistent boundaries for wave propagation analysis in irregular media

The study of wave propagation in finite/infinite media has many applications in geotechnical and structural earthquake engineering and has been a focus of research for the past few decades. This paper presents an analysis of 2D anti- plane problems （Love waves） and 2D in-plane problems （Rayleigh waves） in the frequency domain in media consisting of a near-field irregular and a far-field regular part. The near field part may contain structures and its boundaries with the far-field can be of any shape. In this study, the irregular boundaries of the near-field are treated as consistent boundaries, extending the concept of Lysmer＇s vertical consistent boundaries. The presented technique is called the Condensed Hyperelements Method （CHM）. In this method, the irregular boundary is limited to a vertical boundary at each end that is a consistent boundary at the far-field side. Between the two ends, the medium is discretized with hyperelements. Using static condensation, the stiffness matrix of the far-field is derived for the nodes on the irregular boundary. Examples of the application of the CHM illustrate its excellent accuracy and efficiency.     

Wind-driven interannual variability over the northeast Pacific Ocean

Interannual variability of the sea surface height (SSH) over the northeast Pacific Ocean is hindcast with a reduced-gravity, quasi-geostrophic model that includes linear damping. The model is forced with monthly Ekman pumping fields derived from the NCEP reanalysis wind stresses. The numerical solution is compared with SSH observations derived from satellite altimeter data and gridded at a lateral resolution of 1 degree. Provided that the reduced gravity parameter is chosen appropriately, the results demonstrate that the model has significant hindcast skill over interior regions of the basin, away from continental boundaries. A damping time scale of 2 to 3 years is close to optimal, although the hindcast skill is not strongly dependent on this parameter.A simplification of the quasi-geostrophic model is considered in which Rossby waves are eliminated, yielding a Markov model driven by local Ekman pumping. The results approximately reproduce the hindcast skill of the more complete quasi-geostrophic model and indicate that the interannual SSH variability is dominated by the local response to wind forcing. There is a close correspondence the two leading empirical orthogonal modes of the local model and those of the observed SSH anomalies. The latter account for over half of the variance of the interannual signal over the region.     

Wave-like aquatic propulsion of mono-hull marine vessels

The present paper describes results of the experimental investigation of a small-scale mono-hull model boat propelled by a localised flexural wave propagating along the plate of finite width forming the boat's keel. Forward propulsion of the boat was achieved through flexural wave propagation in the opposite direction, which is similar to the aquatic propulsion used in nature by stingrays. The model boat under consideration underwent a series of tests both in a Perspex water tank and in an experimental pool. In particular, the forward velocity of the boat has been measured for different frequencies and amplitudes of the flexural wave. The highest velocity achieved was 32 cm/s. The thrust and propulsive efficiency have been measured as well. The obtained value of the propulsive efficiency in the optimum regime was 51%. This indicates that the efficiency of this type of aquatic propulsion is comparable to that of dolphins and sharks (around 75%) and to that of a traditional propeller (around 70%). In contrast with a propeller though, the wave-like aquatic propulsion has the following advantages: it does not generate underwater noise and it is safe for people and marine animals.