Down-scaled regional ocean modeling system (ROMS) for high-resolution coastal hydrodynamics in Korea

A down-scaled operational oceanographic system is developed for the coastal waters of Korea using a regional ocean modeling system(ROMS).The operational oceanographic modeling system consists of atmospheric and hydrodynamic models.The hydrodynamic model,ROMS,is coupled with wave,sediment transport,and water quality modules.The system forecasts the predicted results twice a day on a 72 h basis,including sea surface elevation,currents,temperature,salinity,storm surge height,and wave information for the coastal waters of Korea.The predicted results are exported to the web-GIS-based coastal information system for real-time dissemination to the public and validation with real-time monitoring data using visualization technologies.The ROMS is two-way coupled with a simulating waves nearshore model,SWAN,for the hydrodynamics and waves,nested with the meteorological model,WRF,for the atmospheric surface forcing,and externally nested with the eutrophication model,CE-QUAL-ICM,for the water quality.The operational model,ROMS,was calibrated with the tidal surface observed with a tide-gage and verified with current data observed by bottom-mounted ADCP or AWAC near the coastal waters of Korea.To validate the predicted results,we used real-time monitoring data derived from remote buoy system,HF-radar,and geostationary ocean color imager(GOCI).This down-scaled operational coastal forecasting system will be used as a part of the Korea operational oceanographic system(KOOS) with other operational oceanographic systems.     

南极普里兹湾及其邻近海域水团研究

普里兹湾及其邻近海域是中国南大洋调查研究的传统优势海域与重点区域。围绕夏季表层水、冬季水、陆架水、绕极深层水、南极底层水、普里兹湾底层水、冰架水等研究海区主要水团的特征和分布,总结了前人在南极普里兹湾及其邻近海域基于调查资料开展的水团研究中所取得的成果。研究表明,前人在对陆架水的示性指标界定上,将陆架水是否区分为高盐陆架水和低盐陆架水存在较大争议,在高盐陆架水和普里兹湾底层水的定义上存在重叠;目前尚没有证据表明绕极深层水向南可以伸展到普里兹湾的陆架区域,也没有发现在普里兹湾附近海域生成南极底层水的直接证据。     

热带东北印度洋海域毛颚类的群落结构特征

毛颚类(Chaetognaths)是海洋浮游动物中的一个特殊类群,其种类和数量分布对探索海流和水团变化以及海洋食物链中能量传递具有重要意义。文章根据2011年4~5月在印度洋东北海域(80°E~98.5°E,5°S~6°N)29个站的调查资料,分析了毛颚类种类组成、丰度分布和群落结构特征。共鉴定毛颚类14种,以暖水大洋广布种为主,其中肥胖箭虫Sagitta enflata、太平洋箭虫Sagitta pacifica、飞龙翼箭虫Pterosagitta draco和凶形箭虫Sagitta ferox是调查海域的优势种。依据调查站位设置及环境特征,将调查海域分东部断面、赤道断面和西部断面。种数变化范围为5~14种,种数分布不均匀,东部断面每站一般低于10种,而赤道断面及西部断面的种数相对较丰富。毛颚类平均丰度为5.35(±2.82)ind·m-3,分布亦不均匀,西部断面的丰度比赤道和东部断面均高。群落结构分析表明,调查海域毛颚类可分3个组群(相似度水平50%),组群I包括11种,是调查海域的主要种类,分布较广,而另外两个组群仅3种,主要出现在东部和西部断面的少数调查站;调查站之间的相似度较高,特别是西部断面站位之间的相似度70%。西部断面受沿岸水和涌升水的影响,出现较高的物种多样性和丰度。     

海底沉积物纵波波速与物理-力学性质的理论关系和比较

本文提出以密度变化比和等效弹性模量变化比为参数描述海底沉积物纵波波速,得到密度变化比是由孔隙率、海水密度和海底沉积物固相密度构成的复合参数,建立了以复合参数和等效弹性模量变化比为变量的泰勒多项式海底沉积物纵波波速公式。基于单因素分析法得出纵波波速可表示为参考声速与调制函数的乘积,沉积物的参考声速由海底底质物理性质确定,建立了复合参数-声速的近似理论模型。对该理论模型与现有的主要纵波波速经验公式的分析结果表明,孔隙率-纵波波速经验公式只是参考声速不同,但调制函数是互相等效的,验证了本文海底沉积物纵波波速理论关系的有效性。     

乳山湾邻近海域波浪特征要素规律研究

基于高分辨率MASNUM第三代海浪模式并根据Yuan等(2009)提出的波浪破碎统计物理模型,对乳山湾外海2008年各个季节波浪特征要素(有效波高和跨零周期等)与波浪破碎参数(白冠覆盖率、卷入深度和破碎能量损耗率)进行了数值模拟。利用Janson-1卫星高度计观测资料对有效波高模拟结果进行了检验,平均误差在0.17m左右。模拟结果显示,该海域波浪参数具有明显的季节变化特征,在2008-08乳山湾邻近海域受大风天气过程影响期间,有效波高在1.0~1.8m,破碎参数变化显著,白冠覆盖率最大达4.5%,卷入深度在1.5m以上,相应的破碎能量损耗率量值在6~11kg/s3。结果表明,波浪破碎过程对该区域海洋动力环境有着重要影响,是造成乳山湾口表层高溶解氧的可能机制之一。     

Seismic geomorphology,architecture and genesis of Miocene shelf sand ridges in the Pearl River Mouth Basin,northern South China Sea

Multiple stages of large-scale shelf sand ridges, including the shoreface-attached and the offshore types, have developed in the Miocene successions on the mid-shelf region of the Pear River Mouth Basin, northern South China Sea. Utilizing a high-quality 3D seismic data set, accompanying 2D seismic profiles and well logs, the morphology, architecture and genesis of these shelf sand ridges have been systematically investigated in this study. The ridges are of very large scale, with the largest one having a maximum height of 64 m, a width of more than 20 km and a length of 37 km within the 3D survey area. Being mound-shaped, they also display obvious asymmetry character, with the ridge crest preferentially located on the SE side. Three main internal components, including the ridge front, central ridge and the ridge tail, have been recognized through careful anatomy analysis of the two most well-imaged ridges, each displaying distinct expressions on seismic amplitudes and geometries. In the plan view, most of the shelf sand ridges are generally NE–SW oriented and widening to the SW direction. Scouring features can also be clearly observed along the SW direction, including scour depressions and linear sandy remnants. On well logs, the shelf sand ridges are represented by an overall coarsening-upward pattern. Intervals with blocky sandstones are preferentially present on higher locations due to a differential winnowing process controlled by shelf topography.Plenty of evidence indicates that these ridges were primarily formed by the reworking of forced regressive or lowstand deltaic deposits under a persistent southwesterly flowing current during the subsequent transgression. This very current is a composite one, which is speculated to consist of winter oceanic current, SCSBK (South China Sea Branch of Kuroshio) intrusion onto the shelf and internal waves propagating from the Luzon Strait. Tidal currents might have contributed to the SE growth of the ridge. In response to the reglaciation of Antarctic ice-sheet and the closure of Pacific-Indian ocean seaway in the middle Miocene, the intensification of the North Pacific western boundary current was considered to have potential links to the initiation of the shelf sand ridges at ∼12 Ma. The development of shelf ridges was terminated and replaced by rapid deltaic progradation at ∼5.5 Ma.     

高阶非线性完全频散性波浪数值模型及应用

为更精确地模拟强非线性完全频散性波浪的传播,采用长波上非线性重力表面波传播高阶数学模型,综合参考此模式已有的研究成果,建立了一个高达五阶的完全频散性非线性数值模型。应用该五阶模式对斜坡地形、潜堤地形及正弦沙链地形进行模拟计算,并与已有的实验资料进行对比,结果显示五阶模式较低阶模式模拟结果的精度上有了明显提高,模拟波形与实验结果吻合度良好,证明高阶模式更适用于高频散高非线性波浪传播的数值模拟。     

基于破碎临界区的新型拍岸浪统计计算模型研究

When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calcula...     

西太平洋暖池研究综述

西太平洋暖池（Western Pacific Warm Pool）是全球海温最高的海域,汇聚了巨大的热能,在地球气候系统中具有非常重要的作用。本文综述了近30年来有关西太平洋暖池的研究进展,包括西太平洋暖池的维持机制、在不同时间尺度西太平洋暖池的变异特征和物理机制,以及西太平洋暖池的观测和数值模拟等领域的研究进展。西太平洋暖池的维持是现有地形下大气过程和海洋过程相互作用导致的,在季节内到世纪尺度均存在很强的变化。其中：季节内变化的驱动机制主要包括与大气季节内振荡(Madden Julian Oscillation)相关的对流和海表面热通量变化,以及海洋波动等海洋动力过程;季节变化主要是太阳辐射的季节变化导致;在年际尺度上,西太平洋暖池作为El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation的一部分而振荡具有显著年际变化;太平洋代际振荡（Pacific Decadal Oscillation）和大西洋代际振荡（Atlantic Multi-decadal Oscillation）驱动着西太平洋暖池的年代际变化;世纪尺度的变化显示全球变暖背景下西太平洋暖池存在扩张趋势。人类对西太平洋暖池的系统观测始于海洋观测卫星的使用,随后历经WCRP/TOGA、TAO/TRITON、TOGA-COARE、WOCE、Argo、SPICE、NPOCE等多个观测计划,极大促进了西太平洋暖池的研究。但截止到第五次耦合模式比对计划（Coupled Model Intercomparison Project 5）,多数气候模式仍未能克服热带模拟偏差,对西太平洋暖池的模拟效果较差,表明在西太平洋暖池动力学的理解和模拟方面仍有较大进步空间。     

极端波浪条件下黏土质斜坡海床稳定性解析

海洋资源开发引起海底软黏土的结构性破坏,导致土体强度弱化,在百年一遇的极端波浪作用时极易发生斜坡海床的局部失稳甚至大范围海底滑坡,给海洋工程建设和正常运营带来严重影响。目前,主要采用极限平衡法评价这类海底斜坡,但该法只能给出近似解。基于极限分析上限方法,推导了极端波浪诱发的波压力对斜坡海床的做功功率,建立了外力功与内能耗散率平衡方程;利用最优化方法,结合数值积分和强度折减技术,求解了不同时刻的斜坡海床稳定性系数,并针对扰动后的斜坡海床开展了有限元解的对比验证。在此基础上,深入探讨了不同波浪参数(波长、波高和水深)和坡长小于一个波长等极端条件下的海底斜坡稳定性。