Study on scattering wave force of horizontal and vertical plate type breakwaters

The interaction between wave and horizontal and vertical plates is investigated by the boundary element method,and the relations of wave exciting force with plate thickness,submergence and length are obtained.It is found that:1) The efficient wave exciting force exists while plate submergence is less than 0.5 m,and the plate is very thin with order O(0.005 m).2) The maximum heave wave exciting force exists,and it is the main factor for surface and submerged horizontal plate while the roll force can be ignored.3) The maximum sway wave exciting force exists,it is the main factor for surface or submerged vertical plate,and the roll force is about 20 times of horizontal plate.     

若干西边界潜流的气候态分布特征

"西边界潜流(WBUC)"是海洋环流中的重要现象,与表层环流相比,对次表层潜流的结构认识不足。本文利用SODA、OFES和ARGO资料,分析了北太平洋中的棉兰老潜流(MUC)和吕宋潜流(LUC)、南太平洋中的大堡礁潜流(GBRUC)和东澳大利亚潜流(EAUC)及南印度洋中的阿加勒斯潜流(AUC)的气候态空间分布特征,并且根据地转流反向的判据,分析WBUC的发生条件。     

三次样条插值在浮性频率计算中的应用

在普遍利用海洋观测站标准层的温度、盐度数据估算稳定层化海水浮性频率的传统算法中引入自然三次样条插植方法，不仅可使计算结果的精度得以提高，而且还可方便地对观测深度范围内的任一水层进行插值，从而获得总体曲率最小的温度、盐度和浮性频率随深度的分布。本文以南海（13°30’N，118°30’E；9°30’N，lll°30’E）及北太平洋（40°00’N130°00’W）3个测站为例，说明了在浮性频率的传统算法中引入自然三次样条插值法的可行性。     

迎风有限元法在三维潮流数值模拟中的应用

为研究和开发迎风有限元法在河口海岸三维波数值模拟中的应用，并为建立三维物质扩散模型，最终为解决实际工程问题打下基础，以非线性浅水波方程为基础，采用一咱平面迎风有奶元与垂向工有限差分相结合地数值计算方法建立三维潮流数学模型，基地实际的物理过程，在计算中将三维流动分成外重力波和内重力波，耦联求解潮位和流速的空间分布。应用本模式计算了天津新港附近渤海海域的三维潮流运动，以较高的分辩率揭示了潮流空间结构特     

Gravity torques for surface waves

The effects of the gravity torques acting on the angular momentum of surface gravity waves are calculated theoretically. For short crested waves the gravity torque is caused by the force of gravity on the orbiting fluid particles acting down the slopes of the crests and troughs and in the direction parallel to the crests and troughs. The gravity torque tries to rotate the angular momentum vectors, and thus the waves themselves, counterclockwise in the horizontal plane, as viewed from above, in both hemispheres. The amount of rotation per unit time is computed to be significant assuming reasonable values for the along-crest and trough slopes for waves in a storm area. The gravity torque has a frequency which is double the frequency of the waves. For long crested waves the gravity torque acts in the vertical plane of the orbit and tries to decelerate the particles when they rise and accelerate them when they fall. By disrupting the horizontal cyclostrophic balance of forces on the fluid particles (centrifugal force versus pressure force) the gravity torque accounts qualitatively for the three characteristics of breaking waves: that they break at the surface, that they break at the crest, and that the crest breaks in the direction of wave propagation.     

关于风浪预报公式和风区宽度的注记

从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。     

渤海悬浮颗粒物的三维输运模式 I.模式

为了长时间,大范围研究渤海中悬浮物的输运规律,研究应用并改造了备国汉堡大学的粒子追踪悬浮物输运的三维模式,模式中考虑了风、气压等气象要素以外海传入的潮波作用下的三维正压海流对悬浮颗粒物的输运．同时考虑了悬浮颗粒物的学降及再悬浮机制和底质中的细颗粒物的运动,将风浪的作用引入了悬浮物输运的计算,数值模式应用的粒五追踪方法,能较好地反映悬浮物浓度的迅速变化。     

Interpolation of wave heights

Remote sensing of waves often necessitates presentation of data in the form of wave height values grouped over large time intervals. This restricts their use to long-term applications only. This paper describes how such data can be made suitable for short-term usage in the field. Weekly mean significant wave heights were derived from their monthly mean observations with the help of different alternative techniques. These include model-free neural network schemes as well as model-based statistical and numerical methods. Superiority of neural networks was noted when the estimations were compared with corresponding observations. The network was trained using three different training algorithms, viz., error back propagation, conjugate gradient and cascade correlation. The technique of cascade correlation took minimum training time and showed better coefficient of correlation between observations and network output.     

一种更有效的测量短波的方法

使用传统的在海底（或海底以上几米处）固定压力测波仪的方法观测波浪,因水层的滤波作用而无法有效地观测到高频短波。本文提出一种新的观测方法－使用悬挂压力测波仪的方法观测波浪。通过数值方法模拟与实际比较吻合的波面。然后模拟固定压力测波仪和悬挂坟力测波仪两种不同的方法获取此波面的水下压力记录曲线。应用传统谱分析的方法得到各自的压力频谱,再根据不同的情况分别换算成表面谱。通过数值的方法可以证明使用悬挂压力测     

不同介质底床上的波浪衰减

采用近年来的研究成果比较了良在不同介质底床上传播时的波浪衰减规律,对不同介质底床上的波浪衰减机理进行了总结,推荐了计算波浪衰减的公式和方法,根据实验和计算结果解释淤泥质海岸可能存在的波浪传播现象。