Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery

While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Topographic Effect of Izu Ridge on the Distribution of the North Pacific Intermediate Water South of Japan

The topographic effect of the Izu Ridge on the horizontal distribution of the North Pacific Intermediate Water (NPIW) south of Japan has been studied using observational data obtained by the Seisui-Maru of Mie University (Mie Univ. data) and those compiled by Japan Oceanographic Data Center (JODC data). Both data sets show that water of salinity less than 34.1 psu on potential density () surface of 26.8 is confined to the eastern side of the Izu Ridge, while water of salinity less than 34.2 psu is confined to the southern area over the Izu Ridge at a depth greater than 2000 m and to the southeastern area in the Shikoku Basin. It is also shown by T-S analysis of Mie Univ. data over the Izu Ridge that water of salinity less than 34.2 psu dominates south of 30°N, where the depth of the Izu Ridge is deeper than 2000 m and NPIW can intrude westward over the Izu Ridge. JODC data reveal that relatively large standard deviations of the salinity on surface of 26.7, 26.8 and 26.9 are detected along the mean current path of the Kuroshio and the Kuroshio Extension. Almost all of the standard deviations are less than 0.05 psu in other area with the NPIW, which shows that the time variation in the salinity can be neglected. This observational evidence shows that the topographic effect of the Izu Ridge on the horizontal distribution of the NPIW, which is formed east of 145°E by the mixing of the Kuroshio water and the Oyashio water, is prominent north of 30°N with a depth shallower than 2000 m.     

中太平洋CP25岩心的矿物、稀土元素及Sr、Nd同位素组成--晚新生代海底火山活动的证据

中太平洋ＣＰ２５岩心沉积物中钙十字沸石、蒙脱石／伊利石比值（Ｍ／Ｉ）、稀土元素含量、铈异常（δＣｅ）、铕异常（δＥｕ）及Ｓｒ、Ｎｄ同位素特征作为海底火山活动的证据,揭示了中太平洋海盆晚新生代以来火山活动和沉积的历史。其结果是,早中新世约２０～１７ＭａＢ．Ｐ．间,火山活动逐渐强烈,在１７ＭａＢ．Ｐ．最强烈,使得沉积物具有高Ｍ／Ｉ和∈Ｎｄ、低δＣｅ和８７Ｓｒ／８６Ｓｒ。１７～１ＭａＢ．Ｐ．发生沉积间断。１ＭａＢ．Ｐ．至现代,火山活动较早中新世减弱     

红河断裂构造带在东南亚的延伸特征及其大地构造意义

根据地质、地貌及地球物理资料分析,探讨展布于云南边陲哀牢山两侧的北西向断裂组成的红河断裂构造带,在东南亚的延伸特征。提出在该延伸带两侧沉积建造、构造活动,地球物理场和大地构造发展上均有显著差异。并进一步探讨该断裂构造带在大地构造上的意义。     

太平洋中部表层沉积物镁铝含量比的变化

本文根据中、日调查资料,研究了太平洋中部表层沉积物镁铝含量比的变化,并探讨其影响因素。     

Tectonics of a fast spreading center: A Deep-Tow and sea beam survey on the East Pacific rise at 19°30′ S

Sea Beam and Deep-Tow were used in a tectonic investigation of the fast-spreading (151 mm yr^-1) East Pacific Rise (EPR) at 19°30 S. Detailed surveys were conducted at the EPR axis and at the Brunhes/Matuyama magnetic reversal boundary, while four long traverses (the longest 96 km) surveyed the rise flanks. Faulting accounts for the vast majority of the relief. Both inward and outward facing fault scarps appear in almost equal numbers, and they form the horsts and grabens which compose the abyssal hills. This mechanism for abyssal hill formation differs from that observed at slow and intermediate spreading rates where abyssal hills are formed by back-tilted inward facing normal faults or by volcanic bow-forms. At 19°30 S, systematic back tilting of fault blocks is not observed, and volcanic constructional relief is a short wavelength signal (less than a few hundred meters) superimposed upon the dominant faulted structure (wavelength 2–8 km). Active faulting is confined to within approximately 5–8 km of the rise axis. In terms of frequency, more faulting occurs at fast spreading rates than at slow. The half extension rate due to faulting is 4.1 mm yr^-1 at 19°30 S versus 1.6 mm yr^-1 in the FAMOUS area on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge (MAR). Both spreading and horizontal extension are asymmetric at 19°30 S, and both are greater on the east flank of the rise axis. The fault density observed at 19°30 S is not constant, and zones with very high fault density follow zones with very little faulting. Three mechanisms are proposed which might account for these observations. In the first, faults are buried episodically by massive eruptions which flow more than 5–8 km from the spreading axis, beyond the outer boundary of the active fault zone. This is the least favored mechanism as there is no evidence that lavas which flow that far off axis are sufficiently thick to bury 50–150 m high fault scarps. In the second mechanism, the rate of faulting is reduced during major episodes of volcanism due to changes in the near axis thermal structure associated with swelling of the axial magma chamber. Thus the variation in fault spacing is caused by alternate episodes of faulting and volcanism. In the third mechanism, the rate of faulting may be constant (down to a time scale of decades), but the locus of faulting shifts relative to the axis. A master fault forms near the axis and takes up most of the strain release until the fault or fault set is transported into lithosphere which is sufficiently thick so that the faults become locked. At this point, the locus of faulting shifts to the thinnest, weakest lithosphere near the axis, and the cycle repeats.     

The Aleutian Low, storm tracks, and winter climate variability in the Bering Sea

Previous studies have found inconsistent results regarding how wintertime conditions in the Bering Sea relate to variations in the North Pacific climate system. This problem is addressed through analysis of data from the NCEP/NCAR Reanalysis for the period 1950–2003. Composite patterns of sea-level pressure, 500 hPa geopotential heights, storm tracks and surface air temperature are presented for four situations: periods of strong Aleutian Low, weak Aleutian Low, warm Bering Sea air temperatures, and cold Bering Sea air temperatures. Winter temperatures in the Bering Sea are only marginally related to the strength of the Aleutian Low, and are much more sensitive to the position of the Aleutian Low and to variations in storm tracks. In particular, relatively warm temperatures are associated with either an enhanced storm track off the coast of Siberia, and hence anomalous southerly low-level flow, or an enhanced storm track entering the eastern Bering Sea from the southeast. These latter storms do not systematically affect the mean meridional winds, but rather serve to transport mild air of maritime origin over the Bering Sea. The leading indices for the North Pacific, such as the NP and PNA, are more representative of the patterns of tropospheric circulation and storm track anomalies associated with the strength of the Aleutian Low than patterns associated with warm and cold wintertime conditions in the Bering Sea.     

Correspondence between the distribution of hydrodynamic time parameters and the distribution of biological and chemical variables in a semi-enclosed coral reef lagoon

Hydrodynamic modeling can be used to spatially characterize water renewal rates in coastal ecosystems. Using a hydrodynamic model implemented over the semi-enclosed Southwest coral lagoon of New Caledonia, a recent study computed the flushing lag as the minimum time required for a particle coming from outside the lagoon (open ocean) to reach a specific station [Jouon, A., Douillet, P., Ouillon, S., Fraunié, P., 2006. Calculations of hydrodynamic time parameters in a semi-opened coastal zone using a 3D hydrodynamic model. Continental Shelf Research 26, 1395–1415]. Local e-flushing time was calculated as the time requested to reach a local grid mesh concentration of 1/e from the precedent step. Here we present an attempt to connect physical forcing to biogeochemical functioning of this coastal ecosystem. An array of stations, located in the lagoonal channel as well as in several bays under anthropogenic influence, was sampled during three cruises. We then tested the statistical relationships between the distribution of flushing indices and those of biological and chemical variables. Among the variables tested, silicate, chlorophyll a and bacterial biomass production present the highest correlations with flushing indices. Correlations are higher with local e-flushing times than with flushing lags or the sum of these two indices. In the bays, these variables often deviate from the relationships determined in the main lagoon channel. In the three bays receiving significant riverine inputs, silicate is well above the regression line, whereas data from the bay receiving almost insignificant freshwater inputs generally fit the lagoon channel regressions. Moreover, in the three bays receiving important urban and industrial effluents, chlorophyll a and bacterial production of biomass generally display values exceeding the lagoon channel regression trends whereas in the bay under moderate anthropogenic influence values follow the regressions obtained in the lagoon channel. The South West lagoon of New Caledonia can hence be viewed as a coastal mesotrophic ecosystem that is flushed by oligotrophic oceanic waters which subsequently replace the lagoonal waters with water considerably impoverished in resources for microbial growth. This flushing was high enough during the periods of study to influence the distribution of phytoplankton biomass, bacterial production of biomass and silicate concentrations in the lagoon channel as well as in some of the bay areas.     

大西洋中脊热液硫化物的矿物学研究

利用１９８９年在大西洋热液活动区采集的块状硫化物样品，采用矿相显微镜、电子显微镜和电子探针等手段，进行了矿物共生组合、矿物形态与成分标型及其演化特征研究。结果表明，大西洋热液成矿作用可以划分为热液期与沉积期两个成矿期，和石英－黄铁矿阶段、黄铁矿阶段、多金属硫化物阶段、胶状黄铁矿阶段和非晶质ＳｉＯ２阶段等５个成矿阶段；不同成矿阶段黄铁矿的共生矿物和矿物特征不同，在晶体形态上具有从单形晶－聚形晶－胶状     

西太平洋暖池区气象学特征分析

本文根据ＴＯＧＡ－ＣＯＡＲＥ强化观测资料及卫星资料分析讨论了西太平洋暖池区１１－２月间海面气象要素的平均特征。分析发现海面气压平均日变化似乎同中纬度区明显不同。文中还分析讨论了在西太暖池区西风爆发、赤道浅涡、信风逆温及ＩＴＣＥ和南太平洋辐合带ＳＰＣＺ的变化特征。