海浪周期关系的研究

本文利用现场观测数据、实验室风浪槽观测数据和由文氏谱及JONSWAP谱生成的模拟数据,研究了有效周期与谱平均周期、谱峰周期与谱平均周期以及有效周期与谱峰周期的关系,通过数据拟合给出了相应的关系式.研究发现,有效周期与由谱的负阶矩计算的平均周期之间的关系更加稳定,并且有效周期与负2阶矩计算的平均周期几乎相等,均代表了海浪主导波对海浪平均周期的贡献.     

The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).     

A probability distribution for depth-limited extreme wave heights in a sea state

A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations.     

On the parametric resonance of container ships

This work deals with parametric resonance which poses a great danger especially for container ships sailing in following or head seas. Important parameters that are effective in roll resonance are pointed out. For this purpose, a containership is taken as an example to analyze its stability in longitudinal waves based on the method worked out by American Bureau of Shipping (ABS). Unfavorable sailing conditions such as heading and speed, which directly depend on the environmental conditions, have been determined for this particular ship. These conditions may be reported to the master to guide him to keep his ship out of parametric resonance zones. Numerical details of the procedure have been worked out and provided as well.     

Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds

The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.     

A semi-analytical solution for random wave-induced soil response and seabed liquefaction in marine sediments

In this study, unlike most previous investigations for wave-induced soil response, a simple semi-analytical model for the random wave-induced soil response is established for an unsaturated seabed of finite thickness. Two different wave spectra, the B-M and JONSWAP spectra, are considered in the new model. The influence of random wave loading on the soil response is investigated by comparing with the corresponding representative regular wave results through a parametric study, which includes the effect of the degree of saturation, soil permeability, wave height, wave period and seabed thickness. The maximum liquefaction depth under the random waves is also examined. The difference on the soil response under the two random wave types, B-M and JONSWAP frequency spectra, is also discussed in the present work.     

A study of Coriolis effects on long waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin

The effects of Coriolis force on long waves have been discussed based on gravity waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin. In case of ocean, results show that the Coriolis effect will be significant and negligible, when the wave period is comparable to 2π/f and much shorter, respectively. Results also show in a channel, the wave amplitude and water particle velocity decrease exponentially in the positive y direction in the northern hemisphere (where f is positive). Moreover, in a basin, the Cotidal lines have been found as curves and rotate counterclockwise around the origin.     

Flow fields in reflected waves at a sloped sea wall

Wave run-up, and flow visualization experiments were conducted with a 1:2 sloped sea wall model. The visualization experiments gave an overview of flow fields in reflected, non-breaking conditions. Maximum particle velocities were found to be significantly smaller than suggested in the literature. Downrush produced a fast sheet flow, extending down to the toe of the sea wall. This created a ‘reverse’ breaker during the retreat of the initially non-breaking wave, which explains the high-energy dissipation rates for non-breaking waves reported in the literature. Embankments may therefore be exposed to wave impact pressures in areas up to 1.18H₀ below MWL.     

An experimental study on non-linear progressive wave-induced dynamic stresses in seabed

In this study, the dynamic stresses within the seabed induced by non-linear progressive waves were explored through a series of hydraulic model tests on a movable bed within a wave flume. By comparing Stokes’ 2nd-order wave theory with the theory of wave-induced dynamic stresses within the seabed as proposed by Yamamoto et al. [1978. On the response of a poro-elastic bed to water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 87 (1), 193–206.] and Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807], the experimental results show that the pressure on the seabed surface, the pore water pressure within the seabed as well as the vertical and the horizontal stresses are all smaller than their theoretical values. If we were to obtain the characteristics of seabed soil, the analytical solution of Hsu and Jeng [1994. Wane-induced soil response in an unsaturated anisotropic seabed of finite thickness. International Journal for Numerical and Analytical Methods in Geomechanics 18, 785–807] might agree to the simulation of the wave-induced effective stresses and shear stress in the sandy seabed. A different phase shift exists among all the three soil stresses. Their influences on the three dynamic stresses within seabed soil are important for seabed stability, and can be used in the verification of numerical models. In the whole, the non-linear progressive waves and the naturally deposited seabed are found to have a strong interaction, and the behavior of the induced dynamic stresses within the seabed is very complicated, and should be investigated integrally.     

Internal generation of waves: Delta source function method and source term addition method

In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases.