Numerical identification of tsunami boulders and estimation of local tsunami size at Ibaruma reef of Ishigaki Island,Japan

Tsunami boulders deposited along the coast constitute important geological evidence for paleotsunami activity. However, boulders can also be deposited by large storm waves. Although several sedimentological and theoretical methods have been proposed to differentiate tsunami and storm wave affected boulders, no appropriate numerical method exists for their differentiation. Therefore, we developed a new numerical scheme to differentiate tsunami and storm wave boulders for coastal boulders on Ishigaki Island, Japan. In this area, tsunami and storm waves have emplaced numerous boulders on the reef and the coast. By conducting numerical calculations of storm waves in this region, we estimated the size of a storm wave that can explain the maximum clast size distribution of boulders on the reef. Consequently, we showed that a wave with a combination of 8 m in initial wave height and 10 s period can satisfy the above conditions when we assume mean sea level. In contrast to the boulders on the reef, all boulders deposited along the shore are heavier than the calculated possible maximum clast size distribution by the storm wave. Therefore, we confirmed these boulders as being of tsunami origin. Results of previous studies showed that they were most likely deposited or reworked by the 1771 Meiwa tsunami. Then, using the tsunami boulders, we numerically estimated the wave period and amplitude of the 1771 Meiwa tsunami, which should have had a 4–5 min period and 5.6–5.9, 6.3–7.0 m amplitude, respectively. Using the proposed scheme, it is possible to differentiate tsunami and storm wave boulders and estimate the size of past storm waves and tsunami waves, although it is noteworthy that there are exceptions for which the scheme cannot be applied.     

2010 年智利和2011 年日本地震海啸在我国东南沿岸诱导的波流特征及危险性分析

本文基于有限断层模型和OKADA 位错模型计算海表变形场作为初始条件,利用MOST 海啸数值模型模拟分析了2010年智利和2011 年日本地震海啸在我国东南沿海地区的海啸传播特征,海啸波模拟结果与观测数据吻合较好。重点研究分析了沈家门港口海域的海啸波流特征及其诱导的涡旋结构。研究结果表明：尽管两次事件的海啸源位置及破裂特征完全不同,但海啸波流在我国东南沿岸的分布特征大致相似;另外相对于海啸波幅而言,港湾中海啸流具有更强的空间差异性,港口入口、岬角地形处和岛屿间水道中往往会有强流存在。尽管这两次越洋海啸均未能在我国东南沿海引发淹没情形,但通过数值计算发现局部均存在超过3 m/s 以上的强流,因此进行海啸预警及风险管理时应综合考虑海啸波流的影响。     

印尼附近海域地震海啸发生的构造背景综述

2004年12月26日在印度尼西亚苏门答腊岛以西海域发生的里氏9级地震,引发了历史上第五大地震海啸,引起了地学界的高度关注。印度尼西亚西部位于环太平洋地震带和地中海-喜马拉雅地震带结合部位,处于洋壳和陆壳的汇聚边界以及弧状压缩构造格局中。苏门答腊陆缘NW—SE向延伸约1600km,苏门答腊俯冲带源于印度-澳大利亚和欧亚板块3°N的汇聚。苏门答腊弧前区沿着平行于俯冲海沟的两大走滑断裂——苏门答腊大断裂和明打威断裂向北运动。本文对印度尼西亚苏门答腊岛附近海域的地质背景、大地构造特征和地震活动评估等进行了综述,对该海域产生大地震的深部动力学机制进行了分析,并从地质、地球物理资料的获取与分析角度出发,对区域灾害模型进行了探讨。     

Scenarios of tsunami amplitudes in the north eastern coast of Sea of Marmara generated by submarine mass failure

In this paper the tsunamis resulting from a submarine mass failure such as slides and slumps triggered by earthquakes or other environmental effects, which is settled at the bottom of the north eastern Sea of Marmara are examined in one sample region. As the solution method, one hybrid method is developed. The main objective of this method is to combine an analytical solution presenting near-field tsunami amplitudes above the submarine mass failure with a numerical solution indicating the tsunami amplitudes in the coastal regions. For this purpose, one common linear boundary between analytical and numerical solution domains is defined. Movements of Submarine Mass Failures (SMF) are modeled using one simple kinematics source model and the amplitudes of the tsunamis at the region that are closer to the landslide are computed by using the analytical method. SMF is modeled approximately from the bottom geometry, and an average depth is used. Scenarios of SMF are established depending on the velocities and thicknesses of the failure, and near-field tsunami amplitudes are obtained in the open sea during the source time. After the source times, the solutions are found in the numerical region using TELEMAC-2D software system with the mentioned boundary above. In this boundary, the output of the analytical solutions is taken as the boundary conditions or the disturbances for the numerical method. With these disturbances, the numerical method is performed and the amplitudes are calculated in the coastal area. The generation, propagation and coastal amplifications of the tsunamis are illustrated at some certain points and regions both in the open sea and near the coast line. The results have been visualized and discussed.     

An integrated numerical method for simulation of drifted objects trajectory under real-world tsunami waves

The present study focused on tracing tsunami-drifted objects under a real tsunami based on an integrated numerical method. Instead of a solitary wave that is much shorter and steeper than real-world tsunami waves, an extra-long tsunami wave is represented here in a nearshore region using a new approach. To this end, propagation of a seismic tsunami from the source to the nearshore region was simulated using two-dimensional depth-averaged equations. When the waves reached the target coastal area, the time series of the free surface of the tsunami was approximated by a theoretical relation based on a combination of several solitons, which were then used to solve the linearized trajectory equation of the wave-maker to generate the intended time series of the tsunami wave. Finally, in a nearshore model, the movement of drifted bodies under the generated tsunami wave was simulated based on the smoothed-particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. In order to verify the accuracy of the proposed method in tracing the drifted bodies under a real tsunami, the giant fish-oil tank, which was transported about 300 m during the 2011 Tohoku tsunami of Japan, was selected as the benchmark. The results demonstrate that the time series of the long tsunami wave was successfully generated by the piston wave-maker in the GPU-based SPH model, and the proposed approach can be regarded as a suitable alternative for reproduction of a real tsunami. The results also showed that the simulated fish-oil tank properly followed the estimated trajectory in Ishinomaki but it was transported more than the reported distance, which was expected due to absence of a holding connection between the tank and the ground in the SPH model. It should be emphasized that this study is one of the first studies on three-dimensional tracing of a tsunami-drifted body during a real event, and the tracing can be more accurate in further simulations by applying higher-resolution topography data and faster computation systems that help include more details in the nearshore model.     

植被斜坡岸滩海啸波消减数值模拟研究

An explicit one-dimensional model based on the shallow water equations(SWEs) was established in this work to simulate tsunami wave propagation on a vegetated beach. This model adopted the finite-volume method(FVM)for maintaining the mass balance of these equations. The resistance force caused by vegetation was taken into account as a source term in the momentum equation. The Harten–Lax–van Leer(HLL) approximate Riemann solver was applied to evaluate the interface fluxes for tracing the wet/dry transition boundary. This proposed model was used to simulate solitary wave run-up and long-periodic wave propagation on a sloping beach. The calibration process suitably compared the calculated results with the measured data. The tsunami waves were also simulated to discuss the water depth, tsunami force, as well as the current speed in absence of and in presence of forest domain. The results indicated that forest growth at the beach reduced wave energy loss caused by tsunamis. A series of sensitivity analyses were conducted with respect to variable parameters(such as vegetation densities, wave heights, wave periods, bed resistance, and beach slopes) to identify important influences on mitigating tsunami damage on coastal forest beach.     

海上丝绸之路海啸灾害危险分析

海上丝绸之路不仅是商业和贸易的通道, 也是东西方文化友谊的道路。2004年印度洋海啸对丝路沿线的多个沿海国家造成了重大破坏。因此需要对海啸发生规律和危害进行分析, 以确保海上丝绸之路上经济和文化交流的安全。为探索和识别海上丝绸之路上的海啸灾害, 本文给出了历史海啸事件的特征和规律。从震源震级、震源深度和水深等震源参数中发现了一些历史海啸数据背后的有用信息。本文还探讨了不同震级引起海啸的概率问题。分析结果表明：海上丝绸之路上的海啸主要发生在8个主要构造断层, 每个断层都有不同的海啸发生规律。在统计分析的基础上, 本文采用数值模型模拟了海上丝绸之路沿岸的潜在海啸,计算结果展示了海上丝绸之路沿岸的潜在海啸灾害程度。本文的研究成果有助于海啸灾害预警, 能够为保证海上丝绸之路贸易交流的安全提供科学参考。     

海堤坡角变化对海啸波传播过程影响数值分析

针对近岸海域极端海况的防灾减灾问题,准确模拟追踪海啸波传播过程,再现液面局部射流、崩破波等波面湍动现象。建立SPH数值水槽,边界条件基于固壁粒子法,减少海堤坡角改变对计算域精度的影响,讨论粒子间距设置对模拟精度的影响。模拟7种不同海堤坡角下波浪的爬高与衰减情况,讨论了海堤坡角变化对消波系数的影响。当粒子间距设置为0.002 m时,模型能准确地捕捉海啸波的强非线性现象。随着海堤坡角增大,海啸波峰值爬升率增大,波浪越堤后因崩破波的产生,波能衰减进一步加剧。当坡角较小时,消波系数随坡角的增大提升明显,而后趋于缓慢增长。     

Sediment grains moved by passing tsunami waves: Tsunami deposits in deep water

Tsunamis propagating in the open ocean have associated horizontal particle velocities that do not change with depth — yet the limiting water depth where a tsunami of given characteristics will initiate sediment motion remains unknown. Based upon linear wave theory and a parametrization of the Shields curve, equations are derived and solved, using an iterative scheme, to address the topic of grain movement by tsunami waves as a function of water depth and wave amplitude. The focus is on waves in deep water where tsunami waves behave linearly and on non-cohesive sediment grains. Furthermore, the question is addressed of which grain sizes are picked up on a sloping beach as the wave shoals. According to the results, even the Boxing Day tsunami in 2004 was incapable of moving fine sand in water deeper than 985 m in the Bay of Bengal and 335 m in the Indian and Pacific oceans. The results suggest that tectonic tsunamis of size equal to or smaller than the Boxing Day tsunami cannot initiate motion of deep-water cohesionless sediments that can be correlated on an oceanic basin-wide scale.     

海啸灾害及其预警系统

地震海啸是最严重的自然灾害之一。2004年底印度洋大海啸更是震撼了全世界。本文对海啸的定义、性质、特征,历史上和近代的中国和世界的严重海啸灾害作了简单介绍。指出建立和完善海啸预警系统,可以在一旦海啸发生后,争取几十分钟甚至几小时时间,提前发出海啸警报信息,这就能极大地减轻海啸灾害。本文简单地介绍了海啸预警系统的主要内容。