淤泥质潮滩潮锋的形成机制及其作用

根据１９７９－１９９２年不同类型淤 质潮滩张潮前锋水沙观测资料,结合潮锋作用沿滩面上溯的强度变化进行分析,结果表明,涨潮前犹存在水流加速过程是潮锋作用的本质,其出现前提是滩面的宽展平缓,而潮位变化速率过程测定了潮和强度对 时空变化。     

黄渤海沿岸海湾─溺谷型潮汐汊道的地貌结构

本文以丁字湾等基岩海湾为例，论述了黄渤海沿岸海湾－溺谷型潮汐汉道的地貌结构，尤其着重于口门段深槽及涨、落潮三角洲。认为涨、落潮三角洲的发育状况与入湾河流的供沙量、纳潮水域容量、被浪作用、潮差以及口少卜海域的开阔程度有关；泻湖型潮汐汉道的落潮三角洲的典型模式可以应用于海湾－溺谷型潮汐汉道，但涨潮三角洲因受基岩海湾的复杂岸线的限制而不能充分发育。本文还讨论了海湾型潮汐汉道与半开敞海湾在动力和形态中的差异。     

Wave resistance of a hovercraft moving in water with nonrigid bottom

Surface waves generated by a moving ship in water of finite depth are affected by the rheological properties of the movable bottom. The aim of this work is to evaluate the wave resistance exerted on a hovercraft modeled as a two-dimensional pressure distribution moving on the free surface of water with nonrigid bottom. Analysis of three-dimensional flows in two-fluid layers of finite depths is performed by assuming an inviscid upper layer (water) and a viscous lower layer (nonrigid bottom). Numerical calculations show that the maximum wave resistance occurs in the vicinity of the critical Froude number F=1. This maximum value decreases as the muddy bottom becomes less rigid.     

Plutonium in intertidal coastal and estuarine sediments in the Northern Irish Sea

Surface intertidal sediments from 35 sites in the Irish Sea have been analysed for their ²³⁸Pu and ^239,240Pu activities, together with an intensive study of plutonium in sediments of the Esk Estuary (NW England). The range of plutonium activities for the whole survey were 0·14–4118 and 1·3–16 026 Bq kg⁻¹ for ²³⁸Pu and ^239,240Pu, respectively. The levels of Pu activity, derived from the Sellafield nuclear fuel reprocessing effluents, in sediments are controlled by lithological factors and the influence of transport and post-depositional processes. Grain size distribution is particularly important, the major part of plutonium activity being in the mud fraction of all sediments.The data suggest that over the Irish Sea coastline, dynamic mixing of sediment grains by reworking and resuspension and/or by dispersion in tidal currents are important in determining plutonium distributions. The exponential decrease in sediment plutonium activities away from the Sellafield source is attributed to the progressive mixing with older contaminated and uncontaminated sediments.     

华南珊瑚礁的海岸生物地貌过程

海岸生物地貌学研究海岸带生物过程和动力-沉积-地貌过程之间的双向相互作用，是海岸生态系统响应和反馈全球变化的重要机制，被列为全球变化核心项目海岸带陆海相互作用研究的重点内容。20世纪90年代以来对华南珊瑚礁热带生物海岸生物地貌过程的调查研究显示：①造礁石珊瑚的高生长率和珊瑚礁高堆积速率是珊瑚礁生物地貌过程的物质基础；②珊瑚礁海岸地貌结构分带性和生物地貌类型和动力地貌类型叠加并共存；③潮汐水位严格控制珊瑚礁群落分布格局并形成重要的生物地貌界限；④珊瑚礁海岸生物地貌过程有利于消除或减缓海平面上升的浸淹效应；⑤珊瑚礁海岸不断加剧的人类活动干扰和生态破坏导致生物地貌功能削弱和海岸资源环境恶化。急需加强珊瑚礁管理和保护。     

山东沿海风暴潮警戒水位确定的分析研究

本文在分析山东沿海潮汐特征和风暴潮灾害的基础上，对风暴潮警戒水位确定的原则做了讨论，给出了确定风暴潮警戒水位的计算模式，并就山东沿岸主要港口城市的风暴潮警戒水位做了初步计算和分析。     

Longshore currents of regular waves on different beaches

The experiment and numerical computations of longshore currents produced by regularwaves on the two beaches with the slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 are made. The cross-shore distributions of longshore current velocities and wave heights are given and the influences of wave heights, wave periods and beach slopes on the longshore currents are discussed. The discussion is also made for the influences of different eddy viscosity coefficients on the numerical results of longshore current velocities.     

Where Have All the Beaches Gone? Coastal Erosion In The Tropics

From a physical geography perspective, tropical coasts are characterised by coral reefs, mangroves and carbonate beaches on atolls and low reef islands. They face threats not only from sea level rise, but also from human activities that destroy mangroves, degrade coral reefs and accelerate beach erosion. Physical conditions in the tropics are suitable for the ideal tourist beach. Conceptually, the tourist coast can be considered as the integration of a physical system (the coast) and a human system (tourism). Studies have been carried out on various types of tourist coasts in Southeast Asia. For many atoll island states, sea level rise is more than just a threat to their tourism; it also determines their survival. In recent years, assessments of their vulnerability and adaptation have favoured a more integrative approach of physical and human sciences. Hopefully, this should result in a better analytical tropical geography that could play an important role in reducing coastal erosion and assist the small island states.     

辽阳市区软土的工程地质特征

辽阳市区地表浅部呈透镜状断续分布的松软土体———淤泥质粉质粘土为静水或缓慢流水环境沉积,经生物化学作用而形成的。本文对其分布、形成、物质结构及工程地质特性进行了较系统的描述。并依据大量现场测试及室内土工试验成果,分析论述了该层软土天然独特的含水量高,孔隙比大,强度低,压缩性高,具触变性及承载力低的工程地质特性对勘察施工及建筑物稳定性的不良影响,提出了避让、挖除、选择合适桩型等科学合理的工程处理建议。     

Suivis temporels comparés de la structure thermique d'eaux côtières libanaises (Batroun) et françaises (Marseille) entre juin 1999 et octobre 2002

Vertical temperature profiles were recorded from June 1999 to October 2002 (at least once a month) at two Mediterranean sites, in the eastern basin (Batroun, Lebanon; 0–100 m) and in the northwestern basin (Marseilles, France; 0–55 m). At the two sites, the thermal seasonal evolution and the thermocline time dynamics are quite identical. But in the Lebanese waters, at comparable water depths, temperatures are currently 4 to 5?°C higher than in the French waters, the thermocline is longer (more than 6 months), permanent and deeper (40–50 m) than in Marseilles (20–30 m). The latter frequently disappears in summer due to northwest winds inducing cold waters. This is principally due to differences in prevailing wind regimes at each site. Such evaluation, coupled with long-term observations of temporal evolution of coastal water at the regional level of the Mediterranean basins, will shed light on temperature regime fluctuations and their consequences in the context of global warming of the Mediterranean. To cite this article: M. Abboud-Abi Saab et al., C. R. Geoscience 336 (2004).