浅海内波垂直模式方程的一种解析解

给出了一些海区实测浮力频率剖面的数学模型.利用超几何函数对内波垂直模式方程进行了解析求解,得到内波模式方程的解析解和频散方程.利用得到的解析解给出了一种理想条件下内波前三阶简正模式的结构.     

Numerical modelling of deformation of multi-directional random waves over a varying topography

Two numerical formulations of the breaking phenomenon were implemented in a numerical model for random wave propagation based on the elliptic formulation of the mild-slope equation. The randomness of the wave field was simulated based on a spectral component method, in which the 3-D spectrum is discretised in components of equal energy. One of the breaking process formulations is based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component. The other is based on the distribution of the local amount of energy dissipated through the independent spectral components. The model based on the concept of breaking each independent spectral component produces the best estimates of the wave field, when the numerical results are compared with laboratory data.     

完全非线性波浪破碎模型沿岸流数值模拟

探讨一种基于完全非线性Boussinesq方程的波浪破碎模型在沿岸流计算中的应用问题。针对控制方程中的完全非线性项对沿岸流成长过程的影响进行了深入讨论。数学模型计算结果表明,完全非线性项有使平均流局部化的作用;通过数模实验还发现,垂向高阶涡度项可以有效抑制破波区外回流;运用Visser的实验室沿岸流实测资料从沿岸流速度、波高和平均水位几方面对所提模型进行了验证,并给出了紊动参数的计算结果。     

具梯度项的次线性椭圆型方程解的分析

本文研究了1类具梯度项的次线性椭圆型方程大解和完全有界解的存在性问题。运用上下解方法和极值原理分别得到了Rn上方程存在完全大解的充分必要条件和存在完全有界解的充分条件,并且证明了该方程在Rn中光滑有界区域Ω上不存在大解。     

Numerical simulation of wave-induced currents combined with parabolic mild-slope equation in curvilinear coordinates

Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with curved boundary or irregular coastline. The proposed wave-induced current model includes a nearshore current module established through orthogonal curvilinear transformation form of shallow water equations and a wave module based on the curvilinear parabolic approximation wave equation. The wave module actually serves as the driving force to provide the current module with required radiation stresses. The Crank-Nicolson finite difference scheme and the alternating directions implicit method are used to solve the wave and current module, respectively. The established surf zone currents model is validated by two numerical experiments about longshore currents and rip currents in basins with rip channel and breakwater. The numerical results are compared with the measured data and published numerical results.     

基于扩散滤波的多尺度三维变分研究

将扩散方程引入三维变分分析,揭示了传统3D-VAR不能有效提取多尺度观测信息的根本原因,即观测导致的目标函数梯度在空间的不连续分布.将扩散滤波融入基于梯度的最优化算法,发展了基于扩散滤波的多尺度3D-VAR.海表面温度数据同化试验结果表明,新方法可从长波至短波有效地提取多尺度的观测信息.     

An infinity of conservation laws of fKdV equation

An infinity of conservation laws of fKdV equation is derived in terms of the Miura and Gardner''s transform.The pseudo-mass and energy theorems are studied by the first two conservation laws.As a typical example,the theoretical mean wave resistance and the regional distribution of energy of the precursor soliton generation are determined by means of the first and the second conservation laws.     

Surf zone dynamics simulated by a Boussinesq type model. Part I. Model description and cross-shore motion of regular waves

This is the first of three papers on the modelling of various types of surf zone phenomena. In this first paper, part I, the model is presented and its basic features are studied for the case of regular waves. The model is based on two-dimensional equations of the Boussinesq type and it features improved linear dispersion characteristics, possibility of wave breaking, and a moving boundary at the shoreline. The moving shoreline is treated numerically by replacing the solid beach by a permeable beach characterized by an extremely small porosity. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is based on the surface roller concept for spilling breakers using a geometrical determination of the instantaneous roller thickness at each point and modelling the effect of wave breaking by an additional convective momentum term. This is a function of the local wave celerity, which is determined interactively. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches and over submerged bars. Model results comprise time series of surface elevations and the spatial variation of phase-averaged quantities such as the wave height, the crest and trough elevations, the mean water level, and the depth-averaged undertow. Comparisons with physical experiments are presented. The phaseaveraged balance of the individual terms in the momentum and energy equation is determined by time-integration and quantities such as the cross-sectional roller area, the radiation stress, the energy flux and the energy dissipation are studied and discussed with reference to conventional phase-averaged wave models. The companion papers present cross-shore motions of breaking irregular waves, swash oscillations and surf beats (part II) and nearshore circulations induced by breaking of unidirectional and multidirectional waves (part III).     

三维抛物方程Douglas交替方向隐格式的稳定性和收敛性

作者研究三维变系数抛物方程 Douglas交替方向隐格式的稳定性和收敛性。采用 H1能量估计方法 ,证明格式按离散 H1范数是绝对稳定的 ,并且收敛阶为 O(Δ t2 + h2 )     

一种推广的缓坡方程

从流体力学基本方程出发，假定水流的涡量和垂向流速分量小量，推导出考虑非均匀水流的推广的缓坡方程，该方程中包含了△h^2h项和（△hh)^2项。在方程中引入底摩擦项、风能输入项和非线性项，其中风能输入项的推导考虑了风浪与涌浪的区别，风流情况依据青岛海洋大学的风浪成长经验关系，涌浪情况依据Snyder等人的观测结果。经过上述推广后，得到综合考虑折射、绕射、反射、非均匀水流、底摩擦损耗、风能输入及波浪非线性的推广的缓坡方程。